Hi All,
To start, I feel I must apologize for bringing a Taurus firearm up for discussion on S&W.
So I have a newish Tauris 856 Stainless Steal 2 inch barrel snubby. The couple of times I took it out to shoot, I haven't had any issues with it. Its worked flawlessly. Last night while I was fiddling with it I dry fired it a couple of times (I don't often dry fire my firearms, including this one). I had an issue come up.
The cylinder was fine and locked correctly when in Double Action, but as soon as I pulled the hammer back manually for SA, the cylinder freed up completely and was no longer locked. It was free to spin. I saw that the "cylinder stop" that comes out from below (in the frame) was no longer visible.
I took the cylinder out, and attempted to get the cylinder stop to pop up again. I also checked to see if I had all the parts and wasn't missing a spring or anything. From the different diagrams, owners manual, exploded views, and DIY youtube videos, etc, I can say I'm not missing any parts. I also have a taurus M380 snubby that I opened up to double check for comparison. The "cylinder stop plunger" and associated spring are both there. The "yoke screw assembly" with screw, minuscule pointed plunger thingy and even tinier spring were all there. I don't seem to be short any parts.
After sticking the cylinder stop plunger with spring back (That is, the whole cylinder and yoke assembly) into the gun, oh about 30 times or so (whats the definition of insanity? doing the same thing over and over expecting/hoping for a different result) I finally got the cylinder stop to raise out of the frame. I put everything back together and all seemed good. Dry firing in DA mode was fine. Then I cocked the hammer back for SA and this time i saw the cylinder stop drop inside the frame again leaving the cylinder free to spin. I repeated this one more time with the same results. And once the cylinder lock drops inside the frame, it stays there.
Any suggestions? I REALLY just want it to be something simple that I can do here. I really am hoping to not have to send the gun back, mostly because the idea of Mailing a gun FEELS illegal to me. I know people mail firearms and order them online and such, but when it comes to the idea of mailing in a gun for repair, I can't get rid of that feeling like I'm in the middle of a LE sting and I'm the patsy with all the stolen goods on me. (FYI, I'm extremely law abiding).
Anyways I can't figure out whats wrong with it. I repeated the process a few more times and each time I have managed to get the cylinder lock to go up and stay except when in SA mode. Then it drops down in and doesn't come back until I fiddle with the plunger. Now the spring on the plunger IS cocked at an angle and isn't in line with the plunger. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I can't seem to straighten it. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
ANY suggestions? Sorry for the long post.
To start, I feel I must apologize for bringing a Taurus firearm up for discussion on S&W.
So I have a newish Tauris 856 Stainless Steal 2 inch barrel snubby. The couple of times I took it out to shoot, I haven't had any issues with it. Its worked flawlessly. Last night while I was fiddling with it I dry fired it a couple of times (I don't often dry fire my firearms, including this one). I had an issue come up.
The cylinder was fine and locked correctly when in Double Action, but as soon as I pulled the hammer back manually for SA, the cylinder freed up completely and was no longer locked. It was free to spin. I saw that the "cylinder stop" that comes out from below (in the frame) was no longer visible.
I took the cylinder out, and attempted to get the cylinder stop to pop up again. I also checked to see if I had all the parts and wasn't missing a spring or anything. From the different diagrams, owners manual, exploded views, and DIY youtube videos, etc, I can say I'm not missing any parts. I also have a taurus M380 snubby that I opened up to double check for comparison. The "cylinder stop plunger" and associated spring are both there. The "yoke screw assembly" with screw, minuscule pointed plunger thingy and even tinier spring were all there. I don't seem to be short any parts.
After sticking the cylinder stop plunger with spring back (That is, the whole cylinder and yoke assembly) into the gun, oh about 30 times or so (whats the definition of insanity? doing the same thing over and over expecting/hoping for a different result) I finally got the cylinder stop to raise out of the frame. I put everything back together and all seemed good. Dry firing in DA mode was fine. Then I cocked the hammer back for SA and this time i saw the cylinder stop drop inside the frame again leaving the cylinder free to spin. I repeated this one more time with the same results. And once the cylinder lock drops inside the frame, it stays there.
Any suggestions? I REALLY just want it to be something simple that I can do here. I really am hoping to not have to send the gun back, mostly because the idea of Mailing a gun FEELS illegal to me. I know people mail firearms and order them online and such, but when it comes to the idea of mailing in a gun for repair, I can't get rid of that feeling like I'm in the middle of a LE sting and I'm the patsy with all the stolen goods on me. (FYI, I'm extremely law abiding).
Anyways I can't figure out whats wrong with it. I repeated the process a few more times and each time I have managed to get the cylinder lock to go up and stay except when in SA mode. Then it drops down in and doesn't come back until I fiddle with the plunger. Now the spring on the plunger IS cocked at an angle and isn't in line with the plunger. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. I can't seem to straighten it. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
ANY suggestions? Sorry for the long post.
