The .32-20 Hand Ejector Thread

[Muley Gil]

Delerius,

Welcome to the Forum.

Not sure how I missed your post, as I'm a HUGE .32-20 (and I like the caliber too. )

Yes, it is a 1905 4th change. Unfortunately, the condition isn't the best. The finish is pretty worn and the head of the ejector rod is really bugged by somebody with a pair of pliers.

Depending on your location, I'd put the value around $225.

 

[blitzedrx7]

Hey there guys... New here, first post. Friend pointed me over here when I was passed down some old S&W revolvers..

One happens to fit this thread...

Barrel is stamped "32 WINCHESTER CTG" and serial number is 75XX. Any ideas on about when it was out and about. It's in great shape.

Here's what ended up being passed down to me...

 

[Hondo44]

Hi and welcome to the forum! You sure came to the right place.

The 1st thing you should do is start a new thread. You have five prizes and you will not get the reading exposure limiting it to only those reading about 32-20s. You have an I frame, at least two K frames and two N frames I think. Post the serial # from the butt of each gun and the caliber of each from left to right and you'll get more info than you ever dreamed.

Go back to the list of threads for this category and click on the "New Thread" button at the top of the list.

 

[Kinman]

I am glad to see the number of beautiful pistols in this caliber, I hadn't seen alot of posting regarding 32-20. I just bought my first one on GB and am anxiously waiting its delivery, I really got interested in 32-20 when I bought an old 1895 Winchester from a friend and found what an interesting little cartridge it is. I've reloaded a fair number of different bullets and found that the main problem with crumpling the cases, at least from my experience was due to catching the lip of the cartridge with the edge of the deprimer stem. The cartridge needs to be firmly positioned in the case holder, like many small base cartridges and fed into the de-primer/resizer die. I also beveled the edge of the de-primer stem so that it would be a smoother transition rather than a blunt surface for the cartridge edge to catch on, haven't had a problem since and have resized at least 200 rnds.
I have a question among those that would go to the effort of re-plating a nickel pistol, who would you use. I called S&W and they informed me that they wouldn't work on a pistol that old, I've looked at a few on-line and some charged prices that I felt were ridiculus considering the probable devaluation of having the process done to an original pistol. Is it better to keep the original finish that is marginal, or have it professionally re-nickeled in terms of collector value. Or is it something one has done to satisfy their personal desire to have it looking as good as possible with no intention of letting it go having learned from previous mistakes. Thanks for all your pictures...

 

[Senor Chisme]

I just picked this up this weekend at the Tulsa gun show. I know it's a Hand Ejector of some sort, just don't know which model. Bore is nice and shiney with strong rifling. The finish is commensurate with a well used firearm of this vintage. The only major wart is chip out of the bottom of the left grip panel. I'll get a chance to shoot it this Friday but in the meantime, can anyone tell me what I have? Thank you.

 

[Russell Cottle]

Here's mine, serial no.43321

 

[Kinman]

32 WCF, is 32 Winchester Center Fire or 32-20. Be careful about the ammunition you fire through these old timers original factory stuff cleared the barrel with only 20 grains of black powder. Winchester Western and Remington still manufacture ammo, best prices are from "Cheaper than Dirt". That stuff is moving around 1200fps and is a 100grn lead bullet, that should be considered the maximum and only in a pistol with a clean bore. I haven't reloaded for my newly aquired 4th model but plan on using 115grn SWC and starting out around 1000fps, there are also jacketed hollow points available from Hornady in 85 and 100grn. An 85grn JHP at 1000fps would also be a good start at least from my perspective.

 

[SG-688]

Serial X1

This lump-of-rust 1899 has been my grip fitting mule for 40 years. I took it to the usual Friday night meeting to show my newly acquired pair of mid 1970's Hogue grips, but H. Richard was more interested in my mule.

To the naked eye, the serial number appears to be 01, but, as nice as that would be, I think it is probably 91.

Please excuse the saw dust.

P.S. The lockwork is OK. It's the bore and chambers that are all rust.

 

[Hondo44]

You have a 32-20 Hand Ejector 1st Model built on the K frame in 1899 (1st year of production) according to the 91 serial number. The star after the # on the butt shows that it was sent back to the factory for rework of some kind, probably for refinish. The date stamped on the grip frame shows this was done Sept. 1912.

 

[C&R Bill]

What a great thread!!!! Some absolutely lovely guns!!

 

[H Richard]

When SG688 brought this over last Friday, in the dim light of our buddy's bar room, I got really excited at the s/n. I think Craig is probably right, it is most likely a "91" (pretty darn low) instead of an "01". The numbers are separated just enough to make one suspicious. I think this one deserves a shot at rehabilitation. All the parts are there, just needs a little clean & buff and maybe a little tweaking.

If you decide to tear it down, I have a whole series of pictures of the insides. This model has some distinct differences from the later models.

My "much younger" 1899 1st Model, #8636, shipped Jan 1901.

 

[olskool]

here is mine, it is a great shooter. i was told it was made 1907 sel. no. 30210 would 1907 be the correct date?

 

[N7BLW]

The Model of 1899 is definately a different bird from the other seven variants of the 32-20 flock. One of the most significant parts that was much simplified in subsequent models was the cylinder stop. The 1899 used a stop consisting of multiple parts. If you decide to fully disassemble one of these, take good photos or make a drawing of how the parts fit together.

 

[AKp47]

Pawn Shop Rescue

I rescued 335xx from a local pawn shop. I believe she is a 2nd change made in 1907. She has some surface wear and rust but the bore is smooth and the cylinder is tight. The stocks are original and almost perfect. I look forward to cleaning and shooting this little gem. I will probably give this pistol to my Dad.

 

[dant]

Here's one we had at the last OGCA meeeting, serial #101602......

its the 1905 HE ,4th model in .32-20..................
and hardly anyone even looked at it??

 

[wetdog]

Here is a 1905,4th change, sn# 983XX shipped 4/1921.

 

[STCM(SW)]

Picked this up over the weekend.

Yea, I know, bad nickel job,hammer & trigger... Bore is about 60% & some pitting, 5". Timeing is on, grips are numbered, but not to this revolver,insides were dry as a bone, cleaned it up, some rust & gunk, but the price was right. $159.50 OTD. My first 32-20.
S/N 135064, thinking around late 20's or early 30's.

 

[glowe]

OK - I put this in the SWCA Forum earlier, but thought I would add one that is not so fine. I picked up a shooter for under $200 and it was way too ugly to take to the range, so I rust blued it and it cleaned up fine. Gun was manufactured in 1917 and looked like it laid on a barn beam for many years. It was a round butt and since I had some square butt grips, I added these to the gun. Feels much better in the hand.

I have been testing some loads and took my M&P to the range yesterday. I put a cylinder full and shot it through my chronograph and to my surprise, it shot at 350 fps?? Ejected the brass and noticed they were really ballooned out at the mouth. Took a minute, but I found the problem and I will let the members guess what I did.

Anyway, a great shooter and always brings comments at the range. Most people there have never seen a 32-20 M&P.

Pictures are before (pitting and all) and after. Also, with the square butt added.

 

[Muley Gil]

"Remove the stocks. (For revolvers with wooden stocks; I have no idea how to handle pearls, other than applying Renaissance Wax.)

Wash the wood stocks quickly under warm running water, using Murphy's Oil Soap. Rinse. Dry. Liberally apply Pledge Rejuvenating Oil. Dry (for several hours to one day). Apply one to three coats of Renaissance Wax with a microfiber cloth (or old t-shirt). Apply sparingly. You can get it into checkering with a toothbrush (be gentle on the wood) or the fluffy side of the microfiber cloth. Let dry. Rub off and polish with clean cloth. Many wood care products will yield similar results."

Please be aware that the older S&W revolvers were numbered in PENCIL on the back of the grips. This method of cleaning would probably remove that serial number.

 

[Hondo44]

OK - I put this in the SWCA Forum earlier, but thought I would add one that is not so fine. I picked up a shooter for under $200 and it was way too ugly to take to the range, so I rust blued it and it cleaned up fine. Gun was manufactured in 1917 and looked like it laid on a barn beam for many years. It was a round butt and since I had some square butt grips, I added these to the gun. Feels much better in the hand.

I have been testing some loads and took my M&P to the range yesterday. I put a cylinder full and shot it through my chronograph and to my surprise, it shot at 350 fps?? Ejected the brass and noticed they were really ballooned out at the mouth. Took a minute, but I found the problem and I will let the members guess what I did.

Anyway, a great shooter and always brings comments at the range. Most people there have never seen a 32-20 M&P.

Pictures are before (pitting and all) and after. Also, with the square butt added.

25-20s instead of 32-20s.

Very nice worrk, a big improvement. Did you make a little wood filler for the square grips? The Marbles Safety Axe is a nice same vintage touch