The answer??

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I have poke and prodded but my google-foo is weak...

I have a model 64-8 and have not been able to find the proper torque for the yoke screw and the 2 side plate screws. All the refrences including a Military Tech manual just say tighten which is rather subjective expecially for the yoke screw which would bw the weakest of the three

Being an informed redneck I know there is a torque for every threaded fastener, but application, material, thread pitch, wet or dry all effect the torque.

BTW the answer to life the universe and everything will not be accepted
 
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torque

Speaking from the perspective of a long-time revolver armorer, forget about torque. In my experience, the wrong screwdriver is often used....the screws are damaged and overtightened.
Remember the small screwdrivers S&W used to include with their tool kits? I rest my case.
 

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Speaking from the perspective of a long-time revolver armorer, forget about torque. In my experience, the wrong screwdriver is often used....the screws are damaged and overtightened.
Remember the small screwdrivers S&W used to include with their tool kits? I rest my case.


What this man says!!!
 
Not being an automobile engine or an aircraft,,.
The only places that quickly comes to mind that I've seen torque specs is the through-bolt on a butt stock on some modern mfg shotguns and rifles.
In a factory setting, it's an air wrench application w/a torque setting on the wrench head so the assemblers just spin it on. Sounds like a tire and muffler repair shop in there.
Plus some floor plate/action screws in bolt rifles are set to torque specs,,some not.

Other than that, it's tighten it so it's tight w/a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.
Experience will tell you how far you can go, as well as how far you need to go.
Never any different in any factory repair dept or custom shop I've worked in,,or my own business.
Maybe the factories have all changed now to specifics for each and every screw on the gun. That'd be a pain to work on. Some would probably love it though!

There a few firearms that just naturaly loosen certain screws up from their assembly when the gun is used/shot.
A thread locker like LocTite or a nylon lock ring washer can be used to keep them tight.

The old gunsmiths methods were iodine (rust) on the threads or shellac.
Some of the early repeater shotguns were so bad that they were upgraded with tiny lock screws for each action screw. A few started right out using the lock screws to avoid the problem caused by flexing of the action.
 
Not being an automobile engine or an aircraft,,.
The only places that quickly comes to mind that I've seen torque specs is the through-bolt on a butt stock on some modern mfg shotguns and rifles.
In a factory setting, it's an air wrench application w/a torque setting on the wrench head so the assemblers just spin it on. Sounds like a tire and muffler repair shop in there.
Plus some floor plate/action screws in bolt rifles are set to torque specs,,some not.

Other than that, it's tighten it so it's tight w/a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.
Experience will tell you how far you can go, as well as how far you need to go.
Never any different in any factory repair dept or custom shop I've worked in,,or my own business.
Maybe the factories have all changed now to specifics for each and every screw on the gun. That'd be a pain to work on. Some would probably love it though!

There a few firearms that just naturaly loosen certain screws up from their assembly when the gun is used/shot.
A thread locker like LocTite or a nylon lock ring washer can be used to keep them tight.

The old gunsmiths methods were iodine (rust) on the threads or shellac.
Some of the early repeater shotguns were so bad that they were upgraded with tiny lock screws for each action screw. A few started right out using the lock screws to avoid the problem caused by flexing of the action.

Be sure to use blue LocTite, not red! Red LocTite practically welds the screws tight, making them extremely difficult to loosen.
 
Be sure to use blue LocTite, not red! Red LocTite practically welds the screws tight, making them extremely difficult to loosen.

Good point. There's an endless variety of the stuff. Simple color code separates strength and how much force needed to un-do. Then within each are many different kinds for precise and general applications.
Choose the wrong one and you'll need some heat to undo it.

You can always use Poor Man's LocTite,,,SuperGlue.
Works well to keep threaded fasteners in place. It can be stubborn to undo as well.
You also need to be quick putting them in place as the glue seizes up fast as the screw is turned into place.
No hesitation turning it into place or it can be stuck there where you stopped. It's that fast at seizing up most times. Must be the confined space thing..

It's used a lot on dolled up guns that are set out for sale at shows. Screws that are stripped, either in the metal or wood are glued into place with it.
 
Thanks guys, all of this is about on par with what I know and/or found out except for the actual value. The real answer is probably buried in an archived blueprint/drawing filed away somewhere.
 
Thanks guys, all of this is about on par with what I know and/or found out except for the actual value. The real answer is probably buried in an archived blueprint/drawing filed away somewhere.
From an engineering stand point, all fasteners have a torque limit rating.
If I have a pet peeve, it is tightening the side plates screws TOO tight.. There is very little reason to over tighen these screws, or to use any form of loc tite on them..Snug is a good rule of thumb.. Enough to seat the side plate.
Jerry
 

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