The special Yoke Endshake screw

[blackpowder]

You only have play when the cylinder is open. Is the play between the yoke and the frame or is the play of the cylinder and the shaft bushing ? The screw will only address the former. If it's the latter I'm not sure how this can be addressed. Years ago I asked, here, about what I felt to be too much play between the shaft bushing and the cylinder (the latter) on a model 19. Several replied that as long as the cylinder opens and closes easily and the Cylinder Endshake is minimal (cylinder closed) that I should not be concerned with the play with the cylinder open. They made sure that I wasn't talking about the play caused by a worn screw.

With the old screw I had play between the yoke and the frame with the cylinder open and, this is important, also very slight play with the cylinder closed (a light clicking sound when pressing down on the front of the yoke arm with my thumb). With the new screw everything is tight and no more play with the cylinder open or closed. No more yoke endshake.
@armorer951: I carefully polished the sides of the screw at the very end of the screw with a stone, being careful not to shorten the screw, put a drop of oil on the side of the yoke-button that makes contact with the screw.

So now there is still a little bit of resistance when opening and closing the cylinder, where before, the cylinder swung open by gravity alone, swinging freely, after the center pin cleared the recoil plate of the frame. Perhaps this is normal, though?

 

[minconrevo]

Your new flat tipped screw for your square profile yoke needs to first be bottomed out with the cylinder in the closed position. Operate the cylinder release then note the effort required to open the cylinder. If its a lot then shorten the screw, a bit at a time, with a fine stone, taking care to keep the screw bottom flat. Retest often. When the cylinder opens smoothly, abet a little tightly, you are done.

 

[Arquebus357]

Sorry, I didn't realize that the problem had been solved.
Good job.

 

[Pine_Worker]

Your new flat tipped screw for your square profile yoke needs to first be bottomed out with the cylinder in the closed position. Operate the cylinder release then note the effort required to open the cylinder. If its a lot then shorten the screw, a bit at a time, with a fine stone, taking care to keep the screw bottom flat. Retest often. When the cylinder opens smoothly, abet a little tightly, you are done.

I had a 28-2 with this problem years ago. This was the method I used to correct it. Patience is the word.

 

[mshehan]

There is contradicting information in here. Makes things confusing. I don't know who is correct...

One says: "Remember though, if a little fitting becomes necessary, that the yoke button bears against the side of the pilot at the end of the screw, not the end of the pilot. So..... modification of the screw to limit it's contact on the button (make the yoke easier to swing out) would entail making the diameter of the piloted end a bit smaller, not by shortening the screw pilot."

And the next says: "Your new flat tipped screw for your square profile yoke needs to first be bottomed out with the cylinder in the closed position. Operate the cylinder release then note the effort required to open the cylinder. If its a lot then shorten the screw, a bit at a time, with a fine stone, taking care to keep the screw bottom flat. Retest often. When the cylinder opens smoothly, abet a little tightly, you are done."

Which is it??? Or are both true?

 

[Hondo44]

Well they're both true. But a screw with too long a pilot is less common. If the screw tightens further with the yoke removed, than with the yoke installed (observe the position of the screwdriver slot), you will know the screw is bottoming in the button groove and needs shortening.