Thinking of reloading 357 what do I need?

[Model19man]

Can't add much to what has already been said and didn't read every post.
I will mention that Winchester doesn't make a standard and mag primer. Their small primers say for both standard and mag loads.
That and It's the powder that dictates the need for magnum primers. If it's harder to ignite, then a mag primer is recommended. You can get "magnum" velocity without the need for magnum primers.
Ie. win 296 takes a mag primer. Aa#9 most say doesn't need one.
Get a manual and read it first is the best advice. Plus lots of forums that have great reloading advice.
Have fun. It's a great hobbie on it's own.

I used to say exactly what you did. Then Winchester started making magnum pistol primers.

 

[mtgianni]

I started loading 357 in the early 90's. I am now down to 5 of them. I estimate that I have shot between 3,000 and 4,000 rounds through mine and have bought 200 jacketed bullets in that time. I last shot jacketed in the late 90's in 357 and see no need for it personally.

 

[Oldy089]

Get yourself some cheap electronic scales to weigh your powder, more accurate than guessing with dippers but if you don't want to do that, under fill the dipper to get close to your load.

I have not used coated slugs but increase the speed until you start stripping the coating off the bullet and lead your barrel. Then you will know the maximum speed you can drive the bullet. Coated bullets are no where near as tough as jacketed bullets and don't like a ton of pressure on their base as you drive them up your barrel. As the reloading manual will say, start low and work your way up in speed. Inspect your fired cases for pressure signs and your barrel for fouling.

 

[Forrest r]

Get yourself some cheap electronic scales to weigh your powder, more accurate than guessing with dippers but if you don't want to do that, under fill the dipper to get close to your load.

I have not used coated slugs but increase the speed until you start stripping the coating off the bullet and lead your barrel. Then you will know the maximum speed you can drive the bullet. Coated bullets are no where near as tough as jacketed bullets and don't like a ton of pressure on their base as you drive them up your barrel. As the reloading manual will say, start low and work your way up in speed. Inspect your fired cases for pressure signs and your barrel for fouling.

Where in the heck did the coating yada-yada-yada come from????

Nothing could be further from the truth.

If you haven't used "coated slugs" you really shouldn't be making clams of the coating stripping/bbl leading etc.

 

[WR Moore]

Lotta good advice above. I've been reloading over 50 years and I'll chip in a few comments.

1. Don't go cheap. Save up for the necessary and buy quality. As they say, cry only once. I've got an over 50 year old Lyman Spartan that still sees occasional use, but it's gotten sloppy. Still works, but it's no longer capable of tight tolerance loading. Neither are most/all turret presses, although that's less of an issue with handgun ammo.

2. Some good points about powder selection. However, you should be aware that there isn't any practical terminal difference between a bullet traveling 1250 f/s and one at 1450 f/s. The more modest velocity can be reached with a wider selection of powders and is easier on you, your gun and your wallet. Some powders (296) are really only at their best at maximum loads.

3. Bullet selection. You didn't mention intended use, plus, there's no real reason to use expensive bullets for practice. You keep mentioning the Hornady XTP. XTP stands for extreme terminal penetration, and they mean it! Might be an OK bullet for hunting, not particularly a good choice for self defense. The best self load uses a 125 gr JHP bullet, the Sierra version does a MUCH better job of expanding while offering good penetration. The Remington 125 gr SJHP expands more, penetrates less.
The Berry plated bullets work well for practice at far less cost and can still be used for serious purposes, but aren't gonna expand. Their Hybrid Hollow Point (think Speer Gold Dot) will.

4. Primers. Unless you're at the maximum pressure load levels, pretty much anybody's small pistol primer will work with most powders. 296 and a couple of other powders are harder to ignite and magnum primers are indicated here. CCI 500/550 have slightly harder cups.