Thompson 50 cal hawken

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My kiddo got me this musket and I’d like to know how old it is. Does anybody know if there’s a way to tell? 142241 serial number
 

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While I do not know how to date them I can tell you that at close range Thompson Center's classic Maxi-Ball over 100 grains of FFg will go through an elk the the long way, in the brisket then out through the ham. Needless to say the hoped for exit was the anus.

They were usually sold with a starter kit that included single cavity round ball and Maxi-ball molds. You have to down load a round ball to keep the too fast for round balls 1 in 48" twist from stripping the cloth patch. Other wise it is easy to get bullets cast from both molds to group under 3" at 100 yards. Over 70 grains of FFFg round balls are good for low recoil casual target shooting.
 
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A friend had one from a kit in the late 70s.


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The only similar rifle I remember Thompson Center selling with an extra barrel came with a smooth bore shotgun barrel. However, they were not Hawkens. They had a more modern appearance. Other companies sold 1 in 66" twist round ball barrels as drop in parts for T/C Hawkens. However, they cost as much or more than the whole T/C Hawken. Maxi-Balls for hunting and down loaded round balls for target shooting works for me. The quick take down is mainly for cleaning with hot water.

Do not neglect that chore. Despite some past advertising claims to the contrary all the modern black powder substitutes are corrosive. IMO real black powder is the easiest to clean. Your son may have started you in a good hobby. Next comes cap-N-ball revolvers then ...
 
The little wedge through the fore-stock hardware and barrel, plus the hook breech type of removal able barrel was kind of standard for many muzzle loaders. Although, it could be used to interchange barrels, the main reason was to aid cleaning. Black powder is dirty and nasty, but removes easily with soapy water. Remove barrel from stock. Sit breach in a bucket of hot soapy water. Stick a jag and a cloth patch down barrel, once it is bottomed out slowly pull up, the swab will act like a pump and suck some hot soapy water into the barrel through the nipple hole. Up down, flushing water in and out the nipple. Water will turn black. Change out water, finish with HOT clean water. Hot barrel will evaporate any water. Then a passs with lightly oiled patch and a wipe down.

At least thats how I was taught to clean a muzzle loader.
 
The little wedge through the fore-stock hardware and barrel, plus the hook breech type of removal able barrel was kind of standard for many muzzle loaders. Although, it could be used to interchange barrels, the main reason was to aid cleaning. Black powder is dirty and nasty, but removes easily with soapy water. Remove barrel from stock. Sit breach in a bucket of hot soapy water. Stick a jag and a cloth patch down barrel, once it is bottomed out slowly pull up, the swab will act like a pump and suck some hot soapy water into the barrel through the nipple hole. Up down, flushing water in and out the nipple. Water will turn black. Change out water, finish with HOT clean water. Hot barrel will evaporate any water. Then a passs with lightly oiled patch and a wipe down.

At least thats how I was taught to clean a muzzle loader.

That is how I was taught too. And it works just fine.:D
 
Same thing I do to clean mine. Don't forget to remove the nipple, and lube the threads when you put it back. There are two types of patches one round one for shooting, and bigger ones for cleaning.

Don't use petroleum oil on any part of the gun. It reacts with the powder to foul everything up. You want animal fat. Or buy wonder lube,. Use it on the patches, and on the bore after cleaning.

You will need a brass jag, a patch worm, (it has two wires to catch a patch if you loose it in the bore), and a ball puller,. Those all screw into the ramrod. I broke a wood ramrod and stuck it through my hand, so now I only use an unbreakable ramrod, it's black and I think fiberglass. You'll also need a ball starter and powder measure.

It's a nice gun, the age doesn't matter.
 
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My kiddo got me this musket and I’d like to know how old it is. Does anybody know if there’s a way to tell? 142241 serial number
I bought my TC 50 Hawken in early 1978, serial # 163XXX. We got 3 in with serial numbers pretty close. Assuming TC went with consecutive numbers yours would be earlier than 1978.
 
4 digit very early 70's
500,000 mid 90's
You can kind of place yr w/ser# by sorting thru others info provided here.

Supposedly any records were destroyed in a fire, or that's the word anyway.
Guns w/a 'K' prefix to the ser# started out as kit assembly guns.

Bbl's are easily interchanged with the hooked breech. Aftermarket and bbl's from other TC guns have ended up on other than their original chassis.
The original intent of the hooked breech and wedge disassembly was for ease of cleaning as pointed out.
With that it had to be handled very carefully as the stocks of the original era were very fragile with the bbl removed. Very thin bbl inlet side walls. These modern repro stocks are built to a much more robust style.

Sharon Rifle Bbl Co made the first bbls for TC for their Hawken.
Those are marked on the bottom of the bbl betw the breech and the wedge loop w/a 'Spade' or Double Spade stamp
These will be generally seen up into the 4 digit ser#'s.
But TC didn't follow a lot of protocol when marking their guns. So called early features inclu bbl address or even lack of it, can be found on much later guns. Seems what ever marking stamp or parts were available went on.

added..
They used Douglas bbls after they stopped using Sharon bbls. I don't know if the Douglas are identifiable or not or for how long they used them. TC eventually started making their own bbls.
 
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Thanks to everyone for all the great information. I was guessing it was mid to late 70s. Very informative. I’ll have to get a 50 cal mold to cast some round balls. I think I have everything else. It’s a pretty nice rifle. My other muzzle loaders aren’t quite as nice as this one.
 

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