Thoughts on How to Properly Grip a Snub Nose Revolver

[Mphstiger1981]

I saw something mentioned about proper grip of the snubby in another thread that caught my attention. I learned to shoot handguns on a full size .357 revolver. My first gun many years ago was a Model 28 with 6" barrel, and during my training to become a deputy, they taught the cup and saucer.

Fast forward to today, and most of my experience has been carrying the bottom feeders. I was talking to someone in a local gun shop who mentioned he places his strong hand high up on the backstrap of his J frame. I tried this at the range and thought this guy must have lost his marbles, I felt like I'd just slammed the car door on my hand. It was bruised for almost a week after trying to shoot like this.

All of this to say, is there a preferred, suggested or proper method to hold the J frame revolver which gives you control of the weapon, the ability to shoot accurately and yet not feel like you're setting off M-80s in your hand?

Thanks in advance for sharing your tips and insights.

 

[Dragon88]

The cup and saucer is pretty outdated... Personally I shoot J frames with my strong (right) hand as high up on the backstrap as possible, right thumb curled down to keep it away from the cylinder release. Support (left) hand curls around the fingers of the strong hand with the left index finger in positive contact with the bottom of the trigger guard. Left thumb is kind of dangling off in space, I call that my aiming thumb.

 

[Mphstiger1981]

One other question...

Meant to also ask what about the tightness of the grip? Holding a small bird in your hands, death grip or something in between?

 

[elundgren]

I am sure not any kind of expert but with my 340 as high as possible works well even with magnum loads. It recoils more backwards than flipping the barrel upwards. Now I really do not enjoy the magnum loads is this light gun so I don't shoot very many at a time. I use a very tight grip. I think that Dragon88 spells out the details well.

 

[Dragon88]

Meant to also ask what about the tightness of the grip? Holding a small bird in your hands, death grip or something in between?

I like a tight grip, especially if I'm trying to shoot fast(er). I can't tell you how many times the knuckle on my right thumb has been whacked by a revolver's cylinder release, mostly due to relaxing my grip too much. Try gripping so tight that you feel like you are trying too hard and your hand might start shaking, then back off a bit until it is comfortable enough to maintain.

 

[5Wire]

There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.

 

[photoman]

The type of grip on the gun is more important that the way you grip the gun. A good three finger, rubber grip will go a long way toward helping you shoot a J frame better.

 

[5Wire]

...A good three finger, rubber grip will go a long way toward helping you shoot a J frame better.

I'm not sure what you mean about three finger. I presume you're not counting the trigger finger in the "three finger" grip you recommend.

I have both a 642 with the Uncle Mike's boot grips that have two finger grooves

and a Bodyguard 38 with a similar size grip.

I use my middle and ring fingers on the grip. I try to keep the web of my thumb and trigger finger high, on or near the knuckle. My thumb is cocked downward. I close my pinky and keep it under the butt like a little platform to resist the torquing of muzzle flip. So, three fingers and a thumb.

Grips large enough to have three finger grooves would seem to me to be too big and possibly contrary to some kinds of concealed carry. Maybe I misunderstood.

 

[ContinentalOp]

Personally I shoot J frames with my strong (right) hand as high up on the backstrap as possible, right thumb curled down to keep it away from the cylinder release. Support (left) hand curls around the fingers of the strong hand with the left index finger in positive contact with the bottom of the trigger guard. Left thumb is kind of dangling off in space, I call that my aiming thumb.

This is very similar to how I grip my 642. I don't grip all the way up, though; I tend to leave about 1/8" of the backstrap exposed above the web of my shooting hand. I also lock my left hand thumb down so that the pad of the thumb presses down on the joint of my right thumb. I basically create a "circle" of pressure around the gun.

I also make sure the barrel is lined up with my forearm. Not only does it help direct recoil forces straight back into the arm for improved control it helps align the gun when point shooting with one hand at close range.

I tend to use a near death grip on my gun when shooting. One thing I do is apply pressure front-to-back with my shooting hand and side-to-side with my support hand. I use an equal amount of pressure with both hands. I find this makes the gun fairly stable when shooting quickly at close range. I loosen up a little at longer ranges to help with steadying the sights, but it's still a very firm grip.

As for the stocks, I really like Spegel boot grips. Here they are on my 642.

One feature I like about these is the high "ears" that extend up to the top of the recoil shoulder. It helps distribute the recoil force when using a high grip. The other thing I like about them is a palm swell that fills the hand without being too bulky. This also helps spread out the recoil force.

 

[ContinentalOp]

There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.

I've seen the technique. As great a shooter as Jerry Miculek is I cannot agree with using this method. If the only handgun you shoot or will ever shoot is a Centennial snub, then it might be OK. However, the left thumb could get in the way of the hammer spur on some revolvers. At best this would be annoying and at worst it could prevent the hammer from moving as far back as it needs to in order to fire. This is beside the fact that if you ever shoot a semi-auto you risk injury to your left thumb from the slide cycling.

 

[ContinentalOp]

The type of grip on the gun is more important that the way you grip the gun. A good three finger, rubber grip will go a long way toward helping you shoot a J frame better.

A larger, more hand-filling grip will probably improve your shooting, but depending on your method of concealment it can make it more difficult to hide your gun. If you carry your gun you should give this some consideration.

 

[David Sinko]

I shoot my J Frames the exact opposite way I shoot my larger frame revolvers. I start with the Uncle Mike's boot grip. This boot grip has an open backstrap and fits flush with the bottom of the grip frame, which is more important for concealment. The checkered rubber makes for a better gripping surface on such a small grip frame. I grab the grip frame as low as possible and curl my pinky around the bottom. I use a very tight death grip, with the thumb of the shooting hand curled down as tightly as possible. This prevents the thumb from being battered by the cylinder latch, which incidentally is beveled. Support hand is used the same way as when shooting the large frame guns.

I have learned that the J Frame comes back hard in recoil but a light 2" barrel will have very little muzzle flip. If you hold on tight, the gun will not want to twist out of your hands. Most important is preventing your thumb from getting battered. You will never shoot the gun well if it makes you bleed.

Dave Sinko

 

[gr7070]

I've seen the technique. As great a shooter as Jerry Miculek is I cannot agree with using this method. If the only handgun you shoot or will ever shoot is a Centennial snub, then it might be OK. However, the left thumb could get in the way of the hammer spur on some revolvers. At best this would be annoying and at worst it could prevent the hammer from moving as far back as it needs to in order to fire. This is beside the fact that if you ever shoot a semi-auto you risk injury to your left thumb from the slide cycling.

The Miculek videos used to be on Smith & Wesson's site. Then they were on the link below, but are no longer there.
Video Not Found

There are still shots from the video on the below link, including one of Jerry's snubby grip.
MICULEK2

 

[Dragon88]

Miculek's J frame grip makes more sense to me after seeing the picture on that site. I'm sure it's a great grip for consistency and speed in competition, or when performing trick shooting. But it would never work for me in my practice and potential self-defense shooting. My hands naturally go to a thumbs-in-line grip when I pick up a two-handed hold on a handgun, even with revolvers my grip is basically a modification of that. Curling my left thumb over the back like that would feel completely unnatural and I wouldn't do it in practice or "for real".

 

[APS]

I think Jerry does that b/c of the size of his fingers. He can't curl them down (thumb pad over thumb pad) and still be able to engage the trigger. He won't stick them straight forward b/c of the cylinder gap blast.
I guess I'm lucky in that I have skinny fingers. I shoot thumb bent and locked down with weak thumb bent and locked over it. This grip works with all my handguns so it makes practice and competition much easier.

 

[Mphstiger1981]

Miculek's J frame grip makes more sense to me after seeing the picture on that site. I'm sure it's a great grip for consistency and speed in competition, or when performing trick shooting. But it would never work for me in my practice and potential self-defense shooting. My hands naturally go to a thumbs-in-line grip when I pick up a two-handed hold on a handgun, even with revolvers my grip is basically a modification of that. Curling my left thumb over the back like that would feel completely unnatural and I wouldn't do it in practice or "for real".

+1. I agree totally.

 

[photoman]

I'm not sure what you mean about three finger. I presume you're not counting the trigger finger in the "three finger" grip you recommend.

I have both a 642 with the Uncle Mike's boot grips that have two finger grooves

You picture is the classic two finger grip (a copy of Craig Spegel's boot grip). See the pic below for the three finger version.

 

[photoman]

Grips large enough to have three finger grooves would seem to me to be too big and possibly contrary to some kinds of concealed carry. Maybe I misunderstood.

True enough. It depends on how you carry. I carry a 642 with the three finger grips every day in my pocket (cargo shorts during the summer and standard blue jeans or cargo pants in the winter).

 

[russp1]

There was a Jerry Miculek video series which include his technique for two hand hold for snubbies where the offhand thumb crosses over the backstrap at or on the knuckle. I couldn't find the video. Maybe there's link to be found.

I've seen this grip in a couple of older books also and thought it was a good idea, especially with a "hammerless" 442 or 642. When one of the range instructors at my place of shooting enjoyment saw it, he asked if I ever shot any other gun. When I told him I had a regular SA/DA revolver and a couple automatics, he told me to go back to the standard grip where my thumb won't get bitten off by the slide on an automatic. He also said 60% of your grip strength should come from the left (weak) hand.

 

[newdovo]

Similar to several methods mentioned already, here's one from the Box O' Truth website.
Educational Zone #12 - Teaching a Lady to Shoot - Page 1