Thoughts on How to Properly Grip a Snub Nose Revolver

Here's the Miculek method
9dcd0a14.jpg
'

I try to use this grip when shooting my airweight but I really have to make a conscious effort to wrap the thumb over with the snub. 20+ years of shooting my other revolvers without the support thumb wrapped over is a hard thing to break.

I personally give the snub a death grip and let the rest of my arm absorb the recoil....The more it's allowed to "slap" into the web of my hand the more it hurts.
 
You picture is the classic two finger grip (a copy of Craig Spegel's boot grip). See the pic below for the three finger version...
Yup, I've seen 'em and I don't care for them, they add too much length for carry in my non-cargo pocket.

I've also tried the Miculek grip using J-Frames with external hammers, not a problem as far as I'm concerned. What I also practice is one hand shooting, so the pinky-platform method helps control the muzzle flip.
 
One thing he said makes sense:
When one of the range instructors at my place of shooting enjoyment saw it, he asked if I ever shot any other gun. When I told him I had a regular SA/DA revolver and a couple automatics, he told me to go back to the standard grip where my thumb won't get bitten off by the slide on an automatic.

I think that if you can keep everything as much the same as possible it will be good for you in the long run. If someone carries a J frame the most but shoots the most with a different kind of gun that requires a different grip, then what happens if you ever need to use the J frame? Will you remember?

And this is competition-driven pucky:

He also said 60% of your grip strength should come from the left (weak) hand.

Really? Is someone going to do that under stress or are they going to grip both hands as hard as possible? If you train to only use 40% of your strong hand strength in your grip, how strong will your grip be if you have to fire one handed?
 
And this is competition-driven pucky:



Really? Is someone going to do that under stress or are they going to grip both hands as hard as possible? If you train to only use 40% of your strong hand strength in your grip, how strong will your grip be if you have to fire one handed?

I'm pretty sure he was just talking about standing at the range shooting at a target for practice or qualification. When I'm actually trying to stay good and accurate firing my 442, I'm usually grabbing with all I got with both hands to control that little puppy!
 
I do not own snubs anymore but I would strongly recommend NOT practicing any grip that puts your 'other' thumb behind the hammer.

I'm a (sometime) instructor and I have spent many long hours teaching people to shoot (mostly rifles, .22 SAs and plastic brass shuckers) and I spend most of THAT time watching to make sure their left or 'free' thumb is to the side - never, ever, behind the slide. Oh, and I actually met a guy once that had lost the end of his thumb from making that mistake.

Edit: This would be more relevant if you switch between gun types. If you're a total wheelgunner - then get with it!
 
Last edited:
All of your input paid off!

I finally got to the range tonight with my 642 for the first time since my initial post on this subject. Using the recommendations from all the various posters, but especially the contributions from Dragon88 and ContinentalOP, I spent some time working on the placement of my grip. In the roughly 30 minutes or less I was there, I shot 50 rounds of 125 grain reloads.

While I was shooting fast to be sure to finish before the range closed, I was not really shooting for speed. I was working on technique. I found, for me personally, that placing my hand too high up on the backstrap seemed to cause more perceived recoil. Once I lowered the grip a little, and pressed the weak hand thumb over the strong hand thumb, the recoil seemed much less noticeable. I experimented with death grip and finally reduced my tension to somewhere around 7 or 8 on a scale of 1-10, with 1 being a dead fish handshake, and 10 being crushing rocks like saltine crackers.

I have recently replaced the the factory stocks with a set of Hogue Bantam grips. I'm not in love with them but I do think they are a slight improvement. I think my next stocks may be something similar to the three finger stocks in the post from Photoman44.

All in all, my trip to the range tonight was a great success in my humble opinion. I left encouraged that I can shoot the 642 and not have to go home and soak my hand in an ice bucket!

My thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. It has already paid dividends to my enjoyment of my 642. I look forward to getting back out there with it again soon.

Thanks again,

Tiger.
 
Glad to hear your technique is improving. :D Holding high on the backstrap does transmit more of the recoil into the web of your hand, but that's kind of the point. You have to manage the recoil so that you can control the gun and get back on target. That said, ultimately you need a grip that you are comfortable with. When the pistol comes out of the holster it needs to feel natural in your hand as you line up to take the shot. Shooting DAO is very humbling for me, because I often strive for accuracy at the range using a single action technique. Having confidence in your ability to shoot your carry piece is very important though, and it's good that you are making such an effort to improve.
 
I'm also glad you're seeing improvements. Sometimes it takes a little tweaking to find what works best for you. Keep up the good work! :)
 
Glad to hear your technique is improving. :D Holding high on the backstrap does transmit more of the recoil into the web of your hand, but that's kind of the point. You have to manage the recoil so that you can control the gun and get back on target..

I have to say, if I had shot an entire box of shells with my hand high up on the backstrap, I would not be able to type this right now. Not sure if that means I need to consider turning in my Man Card or not. :eek:

I do appreciate the encouragement. I've always been a relatively average shooter and I've gotten many hours of pleasure from the shooting and hunting sports. I know some people view the little J frames as shoot a little-- carry a lot type of guns. I'm just sort of funny about what I carry. I want to carry something I have shot a lot, or at least to be comfortable with and know without a doubt that I have the ability to hit close to what I'm aiming at. This is the fundamental thought that drives me to improve with the 642 right now.
 
Haha no need to turn in the man card. Most intense recoil I've ever felt in a carry piece was my 3" lightweight 1911 with Winchester Ranger 230gr +P. I fired five rounds for velocity measurement, five rounds to get it out of my system, and I was DONE. :D One of the few times my hand hurt after firing a gun. Different grips might help you, though usually the bigger and easier to shoot they are, the harder they are to conceal.
 
Regarding the Miculek grip:

I've used it ever since seeing it and it's without question the best technique available for controlling small revolvers and auto pistols. Yes, I said auto pistols as well. There simply isn't much real-estate on these smaller handguns that would allow you to effectively use the standard grip. Further, for a lot of folks a traditional thumbs-forward grip places their weak thumb perilously close to the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone. This can be cured, of course, by installing larger grips but that has a price in terms of concealment and leaves out the two best laser options for the J frame. (I consider a laser to be required equipment for a J frame because of the enormous boost to performance the laser offers in low light)

A key part of the technique is locking the left thumb somewhere under the first joint of the right thumb, using that as a reference point. This allows the use of that grip without worry about getting the left thumb in the way of the slide. If more room is desired you can angle the left thumb all the way down to touching the wrist and still get the same benefit. In the picture on the previous page, Jerry's left thumb is very high...which you can do with a J frame revolver and the enormous grip strength a professional shooter brings to the table. Modifying the thumb placement impacts the effectiveness a bit, but only a little bit in my experience.

The second key is to grip very hard with the left hand...think of your left hand as a hydraulic press with the goal of crushing the grip. This helps resist the torque applied to the trigger (12-15 pound trigger, 1.x pound handgun...the math isn't in your favor) which improves the ability to keep the sights aligned. It also helps manage recoil better than any other technique I've ever tried, seen, or heard of. Obviously the more grip strength you have the more effective the grip is, but I've taught it successfully to even small females. When used in conjunction with other fundamentals of controlling a handgun (chin forward of the belt line, use of the pectorals, etc) it allows even small females with relatively little grip strength to manage guns like the J frame or the LCP effectively. That means they tend to shoot more since they no longer get punished by the recoil...which is always a good thing.

The grip does take a bit of time to learn/teach and does require some practice, but the benefits it offers in terms of control and accuracy are more than worth it. As for using it under stress, just as with any other skill if you train properly you'll probably be able to use it under stress. I have absolutely no problem switching between a standard grip on a semi-automatic pistol I carry every day and the Miculek grip (although I'm sure he didn't invent it) on the 442 I carry as a BUG every day.

When properly understood, properly trained, and properly put into practice it's a very effective technique...vastly moreso than anything else available. For those motivated enough to seek out training or to seek to improve their skill with a weapon like the J frame it's a good option. It would not be a good technique for the poorly motivated who are largely a danger to themselves. In other words, it isn't a technique I would teach to the sort of person who wouldn't be willing to spend an hour or two doing dryfire runs of learning to acquire the grip properly so they don't injure themselves.
 
Last edited:
Over the last thirty five or so years, one thing I have learned is that you WILL "fight like you train"...

I have also come to realize that in order to become proficient with a handgun, a certian amount of "zen" will come into play...

I have learned to use basically the same grip on my revolvers as well as the semis...in essence, strong hand web as high on grip as possible and strong thumb down the left side of the weapon. Strong hand is pushed into the weak hand with middle, ring, and pinkie fingers on top of each other. Weak index finger then placed firmly on the front of the trigger guard and weak thumb is routed next to the strong thumb.
Both elbows are flexed to a greater or lesser degree depending on the task at hand. Recoil is absorbed by the flex and transfered into the shoulder and back and the hands will control muzzle flip. Very slight modification allows this to be used with a zeroing rest as well.

I found it to be more than suitable for all my handguns regardless of the range involved out to a hundred yards or so. In my youth, I was fascinated with Keith and his long range shooting exploits. Shooting at paper plates at a hundred yards with my 2inch mdl 34, a mdl 60, and a 2.5 inch 19 has been one of my favorite pastimes. Rainbowing in on cowpatties with a 4in. 25-5 or mdl. 29 at long range is an absolute gas.

Over the years, I have agency qualified as "expert" with the mdl. 34, mdl. 60., mdl. 19, the 25-5, and a couple of 1911's. My agency's quailification involves lots of "running and gunning" and the use of cover and concealment.

This grip works - for me - on any handgun I might pick up.....
for what it's worth.............
A.
 
Might as well start with a high grip, because that's what you'll have after the first shot.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions!

I need to work on grip and find the 'JM' approach interesting.

I have to push forward on the backstrap to offset the recoil. But when I do that with the strong hand - my whole hand tenses up, and I shoot low -left, or just left. I can recreate the problem with random empty cylinders.

The 'JM' method, I think, puts the forward pressure, or at least some of it, on the backstrap with the weak hand. This might allow me not to tense up my strong hand so much.

I'll try it out this weekend.
 
In all honesty, 95% of our J frame practice should be with ONE hand. It's highly likely that's how you'll end up shooting it when the time comes. Up close, personal, one hand and no sights.
 
Hello all. I'm a newbie with handguns. I have both a 642 for my wife and a 442 for myself. I've got very large hands and the only way I can comfortably hold either revolver is with the web of my hand 3/4" below the top of the backstop. I am constantly being corrected by my experienced wife and shooting friends, but when my web is high, my hand is contorted and my trigger finger gets pinched between the trigger and trigger guard when firing. Realistically I should have purchased a larger gun for myself, but the ability to conceal was a high priority for me. I am open to any feedback from this awesome, experienced group. Thanks in advance for any input. Oh, by the way, I still have the stock grips.
 
I've got big hands and the first thing I did was to replace the grip with a Pachmayr compact grip. I get a high grip with my right hand, my left hand goes over my right hand with my thumbs crossed.
The grips are still small enough to conceal with an owb holster under a cover garment
 

Attachments

  • Grip1.jpg
    Grip1.jpg
    40.4 KB · Views: 280
  • Grip2.jpg
    Grip2.jpg
    31.7 KB · Views: 287
  • Grip3.jpg
    Grip3.jpg
    35.2 KB · Views: 396
  • snubholster.jpg
    snubholster.jpg
    22.4 KB · Views: 266
pegasus416, the name of the game with revolvers, and especially little J-frames, is to find a grip that works for you. There are literally hundreds of different grips available, which is a great thing about revolvers- there's a grip out there for everyone (unlike semi-autos where in many, if not most, cases, you're pretty much stuck with the way the gun came from the factory).

You might want to try something like the 3 finger groove Uncle Mike's/Spegel grip Photoman44 pictured above or the Pachmayr Compac snubbyfan just mentioned, both of which are larger than the small factory rubber boot grip. If neither of those do the trick, there are other larger ones you can try, as well. You'll find something eventually that fits like it was made for you (and that's an option, too- there are a number of custom grip-makers out there who will make a grip to your specifications).
 
Here's the Miculek method
9dcd0a14.jpg
'

I try to use this grip when shooting my airweight but I really have to make a conscious effort to wrap the thumb over with the snub. 20+ years of shooting my other revolvers without the support thumb wrapped over is a hard thing to break.

I personally give the snub a death grip and let the rest of my arm absorb the recoil....The more it's allowed to "slap" into the web of my hand the more it hurts.
I tried this grip and it seemed to work well for me. I haven't had any formal training or picked up on any bad habits yet, so maybe I could do this.

I do agree with the other member though who said we should focus on practicing one-handed, as that may be the only way we may be able to use the snubbie in a real SD scenario.
 
Back
Top