Tighten the strain screw, but...?

[VictorLouis]

Okay, I recently bought an L-frame with an incredible action, LOL. Removed the grips, and it took like almost two full turns, naturally. Still a good action, just heavier, natch. Then, my mind wandered...

We shim screws that are TOO short(ened). We do that if we are experiencing misfires. Gots to put a little more whack in the smack, 'ya know?

What if we're NOT experiencing misfires? What if we LOOSENED a screw enough to cause misfires. Then, then measure and shim to get it a full turn TIGHTER when all-in snug? In other words, are we hurting anything else in the 'drive-train' with the strain in a lower state-of-sproing?

 

[studenygreg]

I belive that's how Jerry Michulek says to do it in one of his YT videos. I haven't personally tried it yet.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[Sevens]

Nothing wrong with that whatsoever as long as you aren't going in to harm's way with the revolver because different brands of primers (or brands of ammo) are going to put up more resistance than others.

 

[vinn]

those videos can " run you around the wrong stump", it seems like some idiots like to make movies. this happens with other hobbies, like engine repairs.

 

[Gunhacker]

those videos can " run you around the wrong stump", it seems like some idiots like to make movies. this happens with other hobbies, like engine repairs.

I would hardly call Jerry Miculek an idiot... I suggest you do some research on his credentials/qualifications to make such a YT video.

 

[series guy]

Instead of modifying any parts I just use an allen set screw with built in nylon thread lock from Mcmaster Carr to replace the strain screw. Infinite adjustment and it doesn't move. Easy to return the gun to original condition if you sell or whatever. Part number 95235A507.

 

[Benchrest1]

I've been doing the same thing as series guy for years. I also play around with springs. The advantage to this is you can put all of the factory parts back in and its the same as when you bought it. You haven't filed, ground, sanded, or messed anything up.

 

[bruce381]

LOL my action job on a smith is cut 1 coil from the trigger rebound spring.
and back out the hammer spring screw half a turn.
I had a odd deal on a new to me 586 backing out the hammer spring screw caused a light then heavy jerky trigger pull so there is something to the geometry. so put screrw back to tight all good now

 

[robertrwalsh]

I do not like not bottoming out the strain screw. Makes it much easier for it to go walkabout by itself. The McMaster-Carr substitute is great. or buy another screw and shorten it. That way you can always put the original factory part back in.

 

[Eddietruett]

Certainly you can make an action lighter playing with springs and I have done it dozens of times, but there is no substitution to a real "trigger job" by a good gunsmith. There is a huge difference in light and smooth.

 

[oneoff]

Or, just get a couple of extra strain screws, and play with the length.
Adjusting that length "is" part of most good gunsmith trigger jobs (which I agree, are worth it!). But as has been mentioned, once the action is lightened, whatever the means, it becomes more probable that you'll encounter ammunition that will not ignite.
I ordered a "Federal Primers Only" trigger job just as we were entering the Covid era, and haven't seen a Federal primer since. So I just bought a slightly longer strain screw, and with a trigger pull a few ounces greater, I'm back in business with my CCI's. The length of the strain screw is often (if not usually) the only difference in an "incredible" trigger that requires special ammo, and a really good duty trigger, on these revolvers.
I do not "push the envelope" on a duty gun, and would hope that those going into harms way are not bothered by a few ounces on the bang switch. That would be an indication to me that the problem does not lie with the gun. But even here concession can be made if one goes to the trouble to learn their "own personal" equipment (in my opinion).
Nothing like hours of fiddling with, and putting ammo through a gun, to answer one's questions!
Jerry Miculek can be pretty silly, but he is no idiot! He's one of the good guys. And we have really lost a lot in America as our shade-tree mechanics have been put to pasture by this computerized age.

 

[oysterer]

blue loctite

 

[stansdds]

Certainly you can make an action lighter playing with springs and I have done it dozens of times, but there is no substitution to a real "trigger job" by a good gunsmith. There is a huge difference in light and smooth.

There's the truth!

The 1911 I used for USPSA match shooting was a testament to engagement surfaces. Yes, the sear spring was tuned a little, but the sear and hammer hook had perfect engagement depth and the surfaces were super smooth. Those who handled this pistol swore I was running an unsafe 3 1/2 pound trigger, but the trigger pull was actually a little bit over 4 1/4 pounds. A light, but hitchy and gritty pull will feel a lot heavier than a heavier, but glass smooth pull.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Thread deleted. Wrong forum.

 

[WR Moore]

Back when I was smithing, a customer dropped off a 1911 done by Armand Swenson. I don't recall why he dropped it off, but in the process I checked the trigger. 1 7/8 lbs and it didn't follow. I carefully examined all that Armand had done, complete with checking hammer & sear angles and surfaces with an optical comparator at something like 3200X. I found that I was doing exactly what the Master did, except for the polish achieved by the Master and long wear.

At any rate, we returned it to Mr. Swenson and when it returned the trigger was definitely heavier than 1 7/8 lbs. Still butter smooth.

 

[stansdds]

Back when I was smithing, a customer dropped off a 1911 done by Armand Swenson. I don't recall why he dropped it off, but in the process I checked the trigger. 1 7/8 lbs and it didn't follow. I carefully examined all that Armand had done, complete with checking hammer & sear angles and surfaces with an optical comparator at something like 3200X. I found that I was doing exactly what the Master did, except for the polish achieved by the Master and long wear.

At any rate, we returned it to Mr. Swenson and when it returned the trigger was definitely heavier than 1 7/8 lbs. Still butter smooth.

Even with not suffering hammer follow, that was way too light of a pull for a M-1911. NRA competition rules dictate a 3 1/2 pound minimum for the 1911 and I think that is a safe minimum pull.

 

[WR Moore]

Agreed, which is why it went back to Mr. Swenson. I had to know the individual to go below 4 lbs. As I think back on it, the only guys I did that for were serious threats to be US IPSC champions.

PM to follow.

 

[cmj8591]

Strain screws are cheap enough. Buy a few and experiment. I've had great luck with replacing the rebound and main spring with Wolff springs. They are also priced reasonably and they make combinations to do just about anything you might want. It might be me, but cutting springs always seemed like a hack way to do things. As a couple of other posters have mentioned, if the gun is going to be used for self defense, stay with the factory configuration. It's better to sacrifice a little performance for reliability. Miculek is definitely NOT an idiot, but he is a salesman.

 

[bruce381]

Back when I was smithing, a customer dropped off a 1911 done by Armand Swenson. I don't recall why he dropped it off, but in the process I checked the trigger. 1 7/8 lbs and it didn't follow. I carefully examined all that Armand had done, complete with checking hammer & sear angles and surfaces with an optical comparator at something like 3200X. I found that I was doing exactly what the Master did, except for the polish achieved by the Master and long wear.

At any rate, we returned it to Mr. Swenson and when it returned the trigger was definitely heavier than 1 7/8 lbs. Still butter smooth.

Nice his nephew John Jardine does mine they are at a real 2Lbs and sweet to shoot, John worked with his uncle to learn the trade.