kbm6893
Member
I've seen a video on youtube that shows how to disassemble a S&W 686 cylinder. The ejector rod on my 66 comes loose pretty easily. Do I just unscrew it, and apply blue loctite before reassembling?
Tightening Ejector Rod in Revolver
- Thread starter kbm6893
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Make sure it is clean and dry. Both surfaces. I use #242 removeable. Make sure you let the LocTite dry 24 hours after installation, before use. Only use a half a drop, it's all that's needed. Don't forget to shake the Loctite before use.
I think that's a complete list of all the mistakes I've made over the years.
I think that's a complete list of all the mistakes I've made over the years.
scooter123
Member
I do NOT and will NOT recomend using locktite on the ejector rod. As for why, try re-assembling a cylinder that has had the ejector rod locktited. This is a very fine pitch thread and getting the thread started is purely a matter of "feel". Lose that "feel" due to the locktite residue and it's likely that you'll crossthread the joint, which means purchasing a new ejector rod and a new extractor star and then paying a gunsmith to fit and time it to your revolver.
A much simpler and safer option is to tighten it properly. Start by filling the cylinder with fired casings to protect the extractor star. Then fold a bit of old worn out leather belt over the knurling and grasp that with some slip joint household pliers. Note, I mean the common 2 postition pliers, not channel locks. Now wrap the fingers of your other hand around the cylinder and squeeze with the type of grip you would use for shaking hands with a Marine Line Officer. Basically, firm but not stupid firm, this isn't a handshake contest with an enlisted leatherneck. What you are going to do is use that hand holding the cylinder as a slip clutch, so let it slip once the ejector rod is tight. If you find it shoots loose again, squeeze a bit harder next time you tighten it up. Final note is to remember that for revolvers made after 1961 it's a Left Hand thread. One way to spot the left hand thread ejector rods is that all of them have a narrow groove just behind the knurling wide enough you can snag it with a fingernail.
A much simpler and safer option is to tighten it properly. Start by filling the cylinder with fired casings to protect the extractor star. Then fold a bit of old worn out leather belt over the knurling and grasp that with some slip joint household pliers. Note, I mean the common 2 postition pliers, not channel locks. Now wrap the fingers of your other hand around the cylinder and squeeze with the type of grip you would use for shaking hands with a Marine Line Officer. Basically, firm but not stupid firm, this isn't a handshake contest with an enlisted leatherneck. What you are going to do is use that hand holding the cylinder as a slip clutch, so let it slip once the ejector rod is tight. If you find it shoots loose again, squeeze a bit harder next time you tighten it up. Final note is to remember that for revolvers made after 1961 it's a Left Hand thread. One way to spot the left hand thread ejector rods is that all of them have a narrow groove just behind the knurling wide enough you can snag it with a fingernail.
jepp2
Member
I also would strongly suggest not using Locktite.
There are many ways to firmly grip extractor rod. But I have always had great success with the tool made for the job
extractor rod tool
I find that I can position it close to the cylinder and it gives me excellent grip. I have one of the Wessinger tools. You can also buy it here
There are many ways to firmly grip extractor rod. But I have always had great success with the tool made for the job
extractor rod tool
I find that I can position it close to the cylinder and it gives me excellent grip. I have one of the Wessinger tools. You can also buy it here
m1gunner
US Veteran
I have seen too many slip joint pliers slip and cut through protective leather.
You have to degrease the threads on both parts. Threads must have no lube at all.
If you don't have the proper tool, use a good clean drill chuck. Tighten it on the shaft, not the knurled part. Then (with the empty cases in the chambers) Tighten by hand Line Officer tight as mentioned, (referred to as flight line tight by tarmac turdies). If it comes loose again, just repeat and give it a little more spirit when you twist it.
Take it easy, these are small parts.
And I am in the NO Locktite on gunz camp. (scope rings aren't gunz).
You have to degrease the threads on both parts. Threads must have no lube at all.
If you don't have the proper tool, use a good clean drill chuck. Tighten it on the shaft, not the knurled part. Then (with the empty cases in the chambers) Tighten by hand Line Officer tight as mentioned, (referred to as flight line tight by tarmac turdies). If it comes loose again, just repeat and give it a little more spirit when you twist it.
Take it easy, these are small parts.
And I am in the NO Locktite on gunz camp. (scope rings aren't gunz).
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I was going to reply, but there is nothing more to add or improve on to what scooter123 has already posted. I too am NOT a Locktite fan in regard firearms. Motorcycles.....well that's another story.
Chief38
Chief38
Hearsedriver
Member
Make sure you do not overtighten it . Dont ask me how I know... : ) I clamp a wooden clothes pin on the knurled part of the rod and clamp it in a vise and then tighten it firmly on to the extractor by hand. I also use empty casings in 2 of the chambers.
tomcatt51
Member
Use the purple 222 Loctite, NOT the blue 242. The blue 242 is meant for larger diameter fasteners which gets people in trouble. It's too strong unless used VERY sparingly. 222 is enough without being too strong. Or keep tightening the rod when it comes loose. "Properly" of course.
tomcatt51
Member
I have one of this type tool (see link) for the K, L, N frames. They work ok but if I get a REALLY tight rod it goes into a drill chuck (the kind that uses a chuck key) which holds the rod much better without damage.
EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL - Brownells
EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL - Brownells
Tyrod
Member
tomcatt51
Member
Looks good. Probably the best I've seen other than using a drill chuck.
Tyrod
Member
If you liked that one, this one is really kool.
SmithMaster? - trigger spring tool for S&W Revolvers. | Welcome to Gunsmither? Tools | Myself
SmithMaster? - trigger spring tool for S&W Revolvers. | Welcome to Gunsmither? Tools | Myself
Peter M. Eick
Member
I just bought that brownells tool and threw it in the tool box. I figured it might be useful some day.
OK Hog Shooter
Member
This thread is an "ah ha" thread for me. I've got a '54 K-22 with this very problem. I was gonna start a thread asking what tool I needed to tighten the ejector rod and "viola" here's the answer. Thanks for all the links.
Blessings,
Hog
Blessings,
Hog
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I'm so glad I found this thread. During our semi-annual quals, I noticed that my 940PC's ejector rod would loosen after a few cylinders. I would just tighten it by hand when I was on the firing line. I noticed that the cylinder release also loosened up. I'm going to use the loc-tite on the cylinder release, and try the drill bit trick on the ejector rod. This is the reason I dig this forum. Thanks for the great info.
The three jawed chuck on a drill press is probably the easiest and safest way to deal with the ejector rod. I do them that way, probably 5 times a week on an assortment of Smith's and have never marked one or had a problem. Just load the charge holes with cases.
Stu
It's been my experience that the cause of rods backing out (when properly tightened) is some lubricant has gotten in the rod. Until it is cleaned and dried out there will continue to be some loosening up of the rod. Use a good spray degrease product and a Dills pipe cleaner to wipe out the cavity. Make sure it is good and dry before reassembly.
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