Time for a new safe

jtcarm

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Budget: $2k.
Current inventory: twelve long, fifteen short (maybe a couple of long-guns hiding in the back of the closet) with obvious room for growth.
Humidity isn't a problem.

Recommendations?

I have severe doubts about the "security" and "fire-proofing" of safes, unless you're talking really high-end stuff built of 10-gauge steel, which is out of my price range. So I don't need anything super-fancy, though obviously more secure than the Stack-On junk.

And, of course, we all know about the capacity claims.

Thanks!
 
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I have severe doubts about the "security" and "fire-proofing" of safes

Agreed. A roaring house fire will melt anything glass or metal into blobs. I wonder if any of those safe manufacturing companies have ever tested their claims by stuffing their safe full of fine firearms...burying it under a huge mound of combustibles and burning a blazing fire around it for an hour or so.
 
My choice was "Superior". "Liberty" also makes a good product, and there are others as well. I'm not implying that my choice was the best for security and fire resistance, but it met a couple sweet spots for me that may be different for you. Just keep in mind: The good stuff ain't cheap.
Do some reading on the fire ratings and the different methodologies employed. Last time I researched, the industry was far from 'standardized' in this area. So many products appear similar until you dig deep enough to find out how the ratings were done. Some will withstand a nasty fire, and others will lead you to believe they will (and fail the mission). I've fought my share of structure fires and seen some very good and very poor results when it comes to fire resistant safes. Insurance for fire and or theft is not a bad idea at all. Be aware that many policies have restrictions on items such as guns.
Gotta read the fine print on safes and insurance....
Please also consider 'who' is rating the fire resistance of a safe. Is it the manufacturer or an independent third party. Also note that not all tests are the same when determining the length of time it takes a safe to reach a certain temperature (often 350 defrees F). You mat see a UL rating referenced, and if so, find out if it is really the safe as a whole, or simply a component used in constructing the safe.
And then after that can of worms, consider the ratings related to 'security' issues. Here is where you may learn the difference between a 'safe' and a 'residential security container'.....
 
Please also consider 'who' is rating the fire resistance of a safe. Is it the manufacturer or an independent third party. Also note that not all tests are the same when determining the length of time it takes a safe to reach a certain temperature (often 350 defrees F). You mat see a UL rating referenced, and if so, find out if it is really the safe as a whole, or simply a component used in constructing the safe.
And then after that can of worms, consider the ratings related to 'security' issues. Here is where you may learn the difference between a 'safe' and a 'residential security container'.....

Can you refer me to a credible source? Yes, I can google, and the vast majority of what I'll find, even if independent, is BS.

You're spot on about components. I can look at tags on safes in a show room which will state hardness or thickness of the steel, but that really only refers to the door and bolts. The sides will be a good bit lighter.
 
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Don’t know where you reside, but for the money Drake safes are hard to beat. His safes are I believe 1/4 or 3/16” steel on all sides, minimum, not 11 or 12 ga, and his prices are not what you might expect for a quality safe.
He has no website but is available by phone to explain all.

Drake Safe Co. - Home | Facebook
 
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Add one more vote for a Liberty safe. Made in America, too!

https://www.libertysafe.com/

At the top of this home page go to Shopping Tools, then on the drop down go to "Find A Dealer". Hopefully, there's one close to you. If they have one, I'd go to the show room and talk with the experts.

I don't believe that I have ever read or heard anyone say, "I sure wish that I had bought a smaller safe!" Knowing the forum members here, they can fill one up, no matter the size, with great gusto!

Another option is to ask the dealer if they have trade ins. That's my plan. I have outgrown mine and need a larger one. The dealer said that they often have customers who have safes in great condition, but need to trade up for a larger safe. That's my situation. The safes are often in great condition, perhaps almost new condition like mine is.

Bill
 
I have 5 Champion safes. The last one was the biggest one I thought could go in the house. The gun shop was having a great deal on their floor stock. If I could have done same as cash financing I would have bought 2 of them.
 
In Ashland Ohio there is a LGS called the Fin with a few locations
They have a safe that went thru a house fire
Aluminum will melt, steel usually does not
Some safes have a seal that swells up when hot helping keep heat and smoke out
 
Brands are less important than the “specifications.”
Study the gauge of metal, fire rating, number of locking bolts, etc and choose what fits your budget.
I’m thinking $2,000 will not get a very secure/fire proof safe.
 
I’m absolutely loving my Liberty Fatboy Jr. So much that I just bought another one, identical to the first one!

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I’ve worked on every major brand of gun safe made. Cannon, Fort Knox, National Security, Amsec, and Browning seem to be the best among others.

But Liberty in my opinion is the best of the best.

Here’s the problem. What to buy and where. Most safes at big box stores look good but often aren’t. They may have a familiar name but are budget safes at best. The opposite is also true.

Find an independent safe company and see what they carry. Have it delivered and installed. Buy a good safe once and pass it down. $2000 should get you a nice safe.
 
I’ve worked on every major brand of gun safe made. Cannon, Fort Knox, National Security, Amsec, and Browning seem to be the best among others.



But Liberty in my opinion is the best of the best.



Here’s the problem. What to buy and where. Most safes at big box stores look good but often aren’t. They may have a familiar name but are budget safes at best. The opposite is also true.



Find an independent safe company and see what they carry. Have it delivered and installed. Buy a good safe once and pass it down. $2000 should get you a nice safe.



You’ve worked on every major brand of safe?

What, may I ask, is your occupation?

I checked out Liberty. They have a dealer close by, and I can order a Colonial for just under 2k delivered & installed.
 
If you have a Cabelas nearby you might check them out. Quite a few of their safes are made by Liberty, my last one came from there. It's the Signature 35 which is equal to the Liberty Franklin IIRC.
 
Last month I got the Cannon CS72 from Costco, it was close to $1,000. I’m pleased with it so far.

Bob


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I’ve worked on every major brand of gun safe made. Cannon, Fort Knox, National Security, Amsec, and Browning seem to be the best among others.

But Liberty in my opinion is the best of the best.

Here’s the problem. What to buy and where. Most safes at big box stores look good but often aren’t. They may have a familiar name but are budget safes at best. The opposite is also true.

Find an independent safe company and see what they carry. Have it delivered and installed. Buy a good safe once and pass it down. $2000 should get you a nice safe.

If you are going to buy a "Gun Safe" I agree with Kanewpaddle and I own a Liberty Presidential Series myself. It is 23 years old, has served me very well and I have had no issues at all. It also offers what I consider a fairly high level of fire resistance and burglar resistance and is a pretty heavy Sucker too. Downside - very expensive!

That said, if I had to buy another Safe and knowing what I know now, I'd NOT buy a "Gun' Safe" at all! I would buy a used Jewelry Safe! They are stronger, have higher burglar ratings and usually have thicker metal all over. They are usually heavier as well and most have another small locking safe compartment inside the Safe itself for small valuables. They also usually have better locking systems and are just over-all better Safes. YES, you will have to build the storage racks for long guns but that is not a big deal to me.

As far as the fancy high gloss finishes and pin striping that many "Gun Safes" have - that to me us a useless expense! Why pay for something that has no bearing at all on how good the Safe keeps out Burglars? Aside from which I am a FIRM believer that a Safe should be in a secured closet with a solid door, good locks and a separate alarm system from ones home, and ALWAYS bolted down from the inside in all 4 corners. Since I believe a Safe should be out of sight, I could care less about the gold plated wheels, pin striping, high gloss paint jobs, etc. - just give me the BEST security and fire resistance I can afford! If you buy a used Jewelry Safe not only do you get great security but you save big bucks on not buying new.

Since there have been many Jeweler's that have gone out of business, your local Safe Dealer should be able to provide you with some.
 
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I have had three safes. I sold the first two as it was easier to move them. I hope to keep the last one as it is concrete sandwiched bwetween steel.My house can burn down around it and it should not char paper. It weighs 2k lbs empty and will require a professional to move it. I believe it is the largest safe that American Security makes. I think all safes are about the same. It just dp nds on what you want to pay. I would not spend that much on a safe again as you can get something the same size for around 3k that no one can break into. It is unlikely that my house will catch fire.
 
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