Timing my 686 Plus?

[bcarpenterjr]

Hello Community!

This is one of my first posts, hopefully I'm in the right place.

Occasionally (about 25% of the time) when cycled very slowly the cylinder stop on my 686+ doesn't engage (click!) before the hammer falls.

In single action or at normal speed double action its not an issue, only when staging the trigger in DA. Anyways...

Does the 686+ use the same HAND part # as the 686? My thought would be that with seven chambers the cylinder only should rotate ~51 degrees instead of 60 degrees, thereby requiring a shorter HAND to be used...

360 degrees / 6 chambers = 60 ...
360 degrees / 7 chambers = ~51.5

Is it all the same part number, the difference only coming down to the precision fitting/filing? I cant find the part number for the 686 Plus HAND.

THANK YOU!

 

[armorer951]

I believe the hands are designated for fit to a particular model by dash number.

Carry up....or DCU "doesn't carry up"......is determined by the width of the hand, and it's relationship with the ratchets on the extractor, not the hand's length.

Simply substituting a new hand for the one that is in the gun may, or may not, cure the problem....and without proper fitting, may actually make the problem worse.

 

[sturtyboy]

I have several 686's and plus', I enjoy them.
But, why not have a qualified, respected gunsmith examine it? When you want to depend on your firearm, that's no time to wish you had a professional work on the action for you.

 

[garbler]

I believe the hands are designated for fit to a particular model by dash number.

Carry up....or DCU "doesn't carry up"......is determined by the width of the hand, and it's relationship with the ratchets on the extractor, not the hands length.

Simply substituting a new hand for the one that is in the gun may, or may not, cure the problem....and without proper fitting, may actually make the problem worse.

As the man said carry up is regulated by the width of the hand and window. Fitting a real competition oversized hand and opening the window is the only way to get carry up and staging like you see the pros doing. It's a bit of a job and nothing to be undertaken by inexperienced hands -- no pun intended.

 

[scooter123]

The hand slides PAST the cylinder pawl and because of this the same hand can be used for either the 6 and 7 shooters.

Now a couple of notes on timing.

First, with a S&W you NEVER EVER put any drag on the cylinder, these are Combat Revolvers and as such need a bit of "slop" to insure proper function after being dropped in a muddy trench.

Second, read your Owners Manual. In there you will find specific instructions to NOT stage your trigger. As for why, these are Combat Revolvers and need a bit of "slop" to insure proper function when really really filthy. In addition if someone kicks in your front door are you going to SLOWLY stage your trigger or are you going to pull the trigger in a smooth rapid motion. Take note, it takes a lot of practice to develop good accuracy with a smooth rapid trigger pull and staging your trigger will not do anything to develop a good Combat Trigger Stroke. If you want precision accuracy use the revolver as it was designed to be used for precision shooting and Cock the Hammer and shoot in Single Action.