Tips on buying a model 12 K frame

[robbt]

hi guys , i have begun looking for a model 12 snubby, I usually ask the following questions to query a steel frame revolver before purchasing , but a used aluminium k frame have there own problems ,
whatshould I look for ? or ask about ??

please assist me on asking additional questions below in my search , many thanks for you input ,

Hi , I am interested in your revolver:
can you please tell me more concerning the condition
are you a FFL ?
How is the bore ?
How is the action?
How is the lock-up?
How are the grips and checkering?
what is the percentage of original finish left?
Are there any nicks , dents , scrathes chips or rust ?
what is the serial number range ?


Many thanks,, happy holidays to all , robbt

 

[DWalt]

I may be alone in this opinion, but I avoid all Model 12s.

 

[CajunBass]

I'm far from an expert, but I've got one, I use as my everyday carry gun. I don't shoot it a lot and when I do it's with either 158 gr lead bullets, or 148 wadcutters.

I have heard they have a tendency to split the frame right around the forcing cone. I've certainly never seen one in that condition, but I think I've only seen the one I have and a couple of others. Probably something to watch for.

Also the frame isn't the same size as other K-frames, it's more narrow, so only grips made for a Model 12 will fit. I use a T-grip on mine with no problem.

Your list seems pretty good to me. Might want to ask about those two things.

 

[Hapworth]

I first save a PDF of the ad.

Then, in email, I confirm all that the seller has listed about the firearm.

Then I ask some version of these questions based on what has or has not already been addressed:

- How's it shoot? Accurate? Reliable? Any quirks?
- What's its history?
- Perfect bore and rifling, and chambers -- entirely free of rust, pitting and corrosion, and always has been?
- Are timing and lock-up correct on all chambers in single and double action?
- Within factory specs for common concerns (endshake, headspace, barrel-cylinder gap, indexing, push-off)?
- If a box, is it numbered to this specific revolver? Papers, cleaning tools included?
- What's the overall condition of the finish and stocks?
- Are all parts and finish factory original?
- Any repairs, modifications or work of any kind?
- How does the seller assess condition: "as new" or "perfect", "excellent", "very good" etc., per NRA Modern Gun Condition Standards?
- Does the seller offer a three day no fire, no disassemble inspection period with full refund if the firearm fails to match condition advertised?

Specific to the Model 12, as noted by previous posters, I'd be wary of the chance the frame is cracked and address that concern in writing.

 

[dpast32]

Hi, I would ask the very same questions I'd ask for a steel frame revolver. Number of rds fired, if known ? Both you & the seller must agree upon a set inspection period, so you can give the gun a good looking over. Check for lock up, both side to side, & front to back, & also the alignment of the crane to the frame. Check it's timing, inspect the recoil plate for signs of extensive firing, etc. Usually, but not always, Airweight revolvers are purchased by people who don't intend to fire them often. That's why many alloy guns show little use. BUT, there's always the exception to the rule, the gun that someone has run a few boxes of +P or even +P+ through it. In most cases, a good inspection will reveal most signs of abuse. Personally, I love the older Airweight's, both S&W & Colt. A safe rule is to only use NON +P ammo in them, which these days a decent selection is available. ( I like BB's 158 LSWC-HP & 150 gr. Full WC, as the usually shoot right on. ) Good luck with your pending purchase, & please keep us informed.

Best, dpast32

 

[H Richard]

Open the cylinder and look at the bottom of the frame at the rear of the barrel. That's where they most often crack, and yes I have seen pictures of quite a few with cracked frames. You will never know what kind of ammo has been used in it.

 

[user151]

Apart from being able to answer the questions posed, especially those by Hapworth, what is the significance of asking if the seller is a FFL?

 

[Hapworth]

Apart from being able to answer the questions posed, especially those by Hapworth, what is the significance of asking if the seller is a FFL?

If robbt's FFL won't accept shipment from an individual but only from an FFL, it affects both the cost and sometimes the viability of the deal.

As a general rule, shipping FFL to FFL has the most protections for all.

 

[Zoner]

FWIW if any of you guys are from California a model 12 snub,original owner, only a couple hundred rds thru it, for i believe $400 was listed this morning for sale at calguns.net....sounded like a pretty good deal if your into Model 12's.....Mike

 

[robbt]

hi zoner , I appreciate your post , revolver was sold quickly , but not to me ops , many thanks, robbt

 

[BobR1]

I would want to know the Dash Number.
The last version, which I believe was a Dash 4 had the regular Frame.
Also they are not all Snubs. I go to Church with a guy who owns a clean 4 Inch Model 12.

Bob