Titanium cylinders

[S&WIowegan]

I have been shooting my 929 quite a bit this summer. The cylinder chambers are very clean, but the cylinder face is accumulating grime. The manual has no suggestion for cleaning this. What is a safe cleaner to use on titanium cylinder face?

Thanks

 

[murphydog]

No heavy abrasives, the Ti alloy has a factory coating that reduces damage to the cylinder.

I can't see how using a soft toothbrush and solvent would affect it but you probably won't be getting it "stainless cylinder with a Lead Away cloth" clean.

 

[Pisgah]

After witnessing the damage that can occur with relatively mild cleaning efforts, I would use nothing harsher than a toothbrush and CLP. It will never look clean, but it won't began eating itself as they do if that finish gets damaged.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

After witnessing the damage that can occur with relatively mild cleaning efforts, I would use nothing harsher than a toothbrush and CLP. It will never look clean, but it won't began eating itself as they do if that finish gets damaged.

I agree, nothing harsh because you will damage the coating. I save every toothbrush I use when I change out every 6 months or so. After a while you will need a "new" one for cleaning your guns. They don't last super long even with CLP instead of harsher solvents.

 

[chief38]

Yup - we all agree on this one. A worn out tooth brush and CLP gets it about as clean as it's going to be without damaging it.

Although I am pretty anal about cleaning, the Cylinder Face is one area I don't over clean. Even on Stainless guns because the first shot you take at the next Range session gets it dirty all over again. Sort of futile! I'd use a tooth brush and oil or solvent of some sort, but it will never be pristine again. That's OK - kind of like a pocket knife you use everyday.

 

[John_M52]

I've read (maybe here) to avoid ammonia based solvents on Ti - not sure which solvents have it but I think Hoppes does. Just what I've read. I'd like to know - I haven't cleaned any of mine because of this.

 

[Pisgah]

I've read (maybe here) to avoid ammonia based solvents on Ti - not sure which solvents have it but I think Hoppes does. Just what I've read. I'd like to know - I haven't cleaned any of mine because of this.

It's not the titanium, but the protective coating that is affected. Once that coating is disrupted the titanium begins to erode with each shot. Of course, even S&W's "bluing" is damaged by strong cleaners these days.

 

[racoonbeast]

You should contact the manufacturer and ask them what they would recommend. Many of these new materials and finishes can be seriously screwed up by using the wrong stuff. It takes two seconds to smear your new beauty with the latest and greatest wonder cleaner. It takes weeks of remorse, expense and wait to get your gun back from the refinishers if you get it wrong.

All you are going to get in here are opinions of what folks think might, or ought to work. Smart folks and good educated guesses. But, the people who make it will tell you with no doubt what to, and what not to use on the gun.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I now use G96 products, their Gun Treatment or Gun Oil. (both are the same except one is in an aerosol and the other is not)

They don't smell of solvents and clean/lube very well for me...

 

[ruger 22]

Just wipe it with a lightly oiled rag. The look of use adds character.

 

[Ignatz]

When I get done with a match, I brush out the frame area to get the crud out around the firing pin. Then I scrape out crud around the barrel, top of frame area.
I brush off the extractor side of the cylinder lightly with a nylon brush and then run a patch of Kroil down each cylinder. I wet a couple 45acp cotton patches of kroil to clean off the gun and finish with a dry patch through the cylinders.
The top and bottom 929 are fired with WST. The center one was fired with Sport Pistol powder and shows a blacker cylinder.
So, I'm only using Kroil penetrating oil for cleaning and Break Free CLP for everything else.
All three 929's shown were given their end of season Kroil rub down. The center 929's cylinder was so black on the outside, it looked like a 627 38 super revolver.
Do I clean the front of the cylinder? I might wipe it off with my dirty patch before throwing the patch away.

 

[HankB]

I contacted S&W directly about this very thing when I got my 340 Sc. The "official" reply I got recommended "NEVR DULL." The ingredients are listed as "wadding with petroleum distillates" I checked the MSDS and it says "Mineral Spirits – Petroleum Hydrocarbon." It comes in a silver can - I found it in the auto department at WalMart.

I've been using it for years - I take a pinch about the size of a cotton ball, and with a little elbow grease it seems to get the titanium suitably clean but will not restore the original "unused" finish to the front of the cylinder.

I don't use anything more aggressive - and that includes NOT using a bronze brush for the chambers; either NEVR DULL or a patch with some Break Free CLP is as far as I'll go.

 

[rosewood]

Good info guys. I don't have any Titanium guns, but never considered it could be damaged when cleaning.

Rosewood

 

[studenygreg]

I just wipe it off with clp.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

 

[flintsghost]

Titanium itself cannot be damaged by solvents or ammonia. The coating the factory puts on it might be damaged but the titanium won't be. It's not possible. There are of course different grades of titanium. But titanium is used for metal implants put in the mouth and for prosthetic implants used in hips, knees and shoulders. Body fluids including blood are highly caustic and very corrosive and don't effect the implants at all. The only fault titanium does have is that it work hardens and becomes brittle and then will crack or shatter. That's why titanium hammers that used to be installed in 1911 competition guns were such a failure. They would work harden and break off after 1000 or so rounds. But struts, firing pins and mainspring caps continue to this day and work very well.

 

[rosewood]

Titanium itself cannot be damaged by solvents or ammonia. The coating the factory puts on it might be damaged but the titanium won't be. It's not possible. There are of course different grades of titanium. But titanium is used for metal implants put in the mouth and for prosthetic implants used in hips, knees and shoulders. Body fluids including blood are highly caustic and very corrosive and don't effect the implants at all. The only fault titanium does have is that it work hardens and becomes brittle and then will crack or shatter. That's why titanium hammers that used to be installed in 1911 competition guns were such a failure. They would work harden and break off after 1000 or so rounds. But struts, firing pins and mainspring caps continue to this day and work very well.

What is the purpose of putting a coating on it?

Rosewood

 

[S&WIowegan]

Thanks

I appreciate all your replies. I have several other revolvers with titanium cylinders that I don't shoot often. My real gripe is that S&W creates this Performance Center gun and throws a no info standard users manual in the box.

I have plenty of CLP and Kroil.

 

[murphydog]

Titanium itself cannot be damaged by solvents or ammonia. The coating the factory puts on it might be damaged but the titanium won't be. It's not possible. There are of course different grades of titanium. But titanium is used for metal implants put in the mouth and for prosthetic implants used in hips, knees and shoulders. Body fluids including blood are highly caustic and very corrosive and don't effect the implants at all. The only fault titanium does have is that it work hardens and becomes brittle and then will crack or shatter. That's why titanium hammers that used to be installed in 1911 competition guns were such a failure. They would work harden and break off after 1000 or so rounds. But struts, firing pins and mainspring caps continue to this day and work very well.

Titanium alloys differ, but damage from abrasion or chemicals is not the issue for the need for the coating on the cylinder - it is damage to the alloy from firing.

If there was a fire-breathing dragon with titanium dental implants I suspect they wouldn't last long.

 

[John_M52]

A department canine got Ti implants. Not a dragon but many a bad guy learned the hard way that they were tough.