Bigger issues are there than damaging the gun if you sit in front of a tv and dry fire thousands of times.
Too Much Dry Firing?
- Thread starter Vettepartz
- Start date
Bigger issues are there than damaging the gun if you sit in front of a tv and dry fire thousands of times.
I was issued a model 14-2 in November of 1970 with instructions to dry fire it at every opportunity. I did so, two to five times a week, for five months and whenever the notion struck me since then. I carried it daily for 18 years and fired a minimum of 30 rounds a month during that time. The cylinder vibrated loose once, the mainspring was replaced once and the hand was replaced once. The original hammer nose and the hammer nose bushing show no sign of wear.
Fret not and dry fire with confidence.
Fret not and dry fire with confidence.
tomcatt51
Member
I suppose it could. The sky could fall too... But my actual experience is that my 629 hasn't been damaged and the sky hasn't fallen.
Keith44
Member
I will back off my position slightly here. Since S&W says go for it, have at it, but for myself I'll still use snap caps.
BigBill
Absent Comrade
Once I apply the moly paste to all the metal to metal contact moving parts all wear is eliminated. As I run the action with snap caps to be safe as the moly is burnished into the pores of the metal the friction is reduced. On my revolvers.
On the pistols I disassemble the pistol. I take the empty slide apply moly to the frame and slide rails and run the slide to burnish the moly into the metal pores. I apply moly to all the metal to metal contact parts during reassembly. The barrel n bushing, the recoil spring, hammer face etc. Once it's together I run the slide 25 to 50 times. Wipe off the excess moly and she is good to test first.
On semi auto rifles it's the same process when applying moly. The receiver rails, the bolt and bolt carrier, gas piston, recoil spring, spring guide etc. But I run the bolt carrier 50 to 100 times to work the moly in.
Any gun that has moly in it at first will feel stiff before you run it by hand.
While cycling it to burnish the moly in it should loosen up. If it doesn't you have too much moly in it. It should free up after cycling it by hand.
You gun will cycle smoother, faster, less trigger pull, smoother trigger pull.
You much use a moly paste or moly anti seeze. There is no substitute.
Then using snap caps you can cycle it and dry fire it all you want.
On the pistols I disassemble the pistol. I take the empty slide apply moly to the frame and slide rails and run the slide to burnish the moly into the metal pores. I apply moly to all the metal to metal contact parts during reassembly. The barrel n bushing, the recoil spring, hammer face etc. Once it's together I run the slide 25 to 50 times. Wipe off the excess moly and she is good to test first.
On semi auto rifles it's the same process when applying moly. The receiver rails, the bolt and bolt carrier, gas piston, recoil spring, spring guide etc. But I run the bolt carrier 50 to 100 times to work the moly in.
Any gun that has moly in it at first will feel stiff before you run it by hand.
While cycling it to burnish the moly in it should loosen up. If it doesn't you have too much moly in it. It should free up after cycling it by hand.
You gun will cycle smoother, faster, less trigger pull, smoother trigger pull.
You much use a moly paste or moly anti seeze. There is no substitute.
Then using snap caps you can cycle it and dry fire it all you want.
Yep. This is the correct answer. But no matter where you go the issue keeps coming up. There are some that just don't believe it I guess. Keeps the snap cap makers happy.
I have dryfired my revolvers for decades without snap caps with not a single issue. All of the fellows that shot competition back in the 70's and 80's did it thousands of times everynight. I still have my 19-4 I bought in 82 and still dryfire it.
JR
JR
