Top-Break hammer stud issue

[deadin]

I have a top break where the hammer stud nut appears to be frozen (or is just tighter) on the stud to the point that the stud wants to unscrew from the frame while trying to remove the nut. This doesn't work well..... Any suggestions??

 

[mmaher94087]

Dean, I never ran into this situation so I can only speculate. Thinking out loud: I suspect that the hammer will bind up as the stud loosens. At the point of the hammer binding the stud should bind as well allowing the stud nut to be removed? I recommend hairdryer heat and penetrating oil therapy on the stud nut. Heat; cool and repeat many times to break the bond between the nut and stud. Please let us (me) know how you do.

 

[WR Moore]

A very old trick is to use a candle to apply heat to the nut. Supposedly, wax molecules in the flame will penetrate the joint and help lubricate it. And, there's always PB parts blaster.

If the stud is, in fact, threaded into the frame, it might be worthwhile to remove stud and nut so you can apply more heat than is advisable while it's assembled.

If you get the nut off, I'd suggest removing the stud, degreasing both the stud and frame. At this point apply red Loc-Tite and reinstall the stud to proper point. After about 30 minutes, the stud will now be a near permanent fixture.

 

[mnrivrat]

I would soak in Kroil for 2 to 3 days to begin with. Submerging the nut side.
I sort of doubt that the hammer will bind up against the shoulder of the stud but no harm trying.

If that doesn't work out, I would screw the stud as far out of the frame as possible. Then degrease the frame threads and stud,(spray with brake cleaner so the threads on the stud are well degreased) and apply red Loctite to the exposed threads in the frame and screw the stud back in. After letting the Loctite dry the nut hopefully will break free before the frame stud threads with Loctite let go. This is just another suggestion as I have not run across your particular problem either.

 

[deadin]

Well, tried the first suggestion. No joy! Originally the sideplate was trying to come out at an angle and it worried me about doing damage with the main spring jamming up against the frame, so I clamped the sideplate in position and tried the "jam the stud on the hammer" bit. Got about a half turn and it locked up. ((Used Kroil and heat. No luck.)
I don't know if I can fish the mainspring out with the sideplate in place, but that will be my next attempt. If that doesn't work I guess I will try the soaking in ATF/Kerosene for a few days and then giving it an hour or two in my heated sonic cleaner.
Following that will be the red loctite attack.
Finally I will just give up as I don't really need to get into the gun in the first place. I just wanted to see how the rebounding hammer is set up. (It's a 22 Single Shot 2nd Model.)
I have just come into a Model 1891, either a .22 1st Model SS or a 38 3rd Model SA. (The barrel serial doesn't match the frame serial, so it could be either) It does not appear to have a rebounding hammer. (Nor does it have a safety notch.) The book says the 3rd Model should have the rebounding hammer. I couldn't find if a 1st Model does or not.

The .38 has Target sights (that match the frame, but not the barrel) and target grips, so it's worth the effort to sort it out. I'm thinking of requesting a letter that should tell me how it left Springfield. I suppose if I request a generic "Model 1891" with serial number, I should get how it shipped.