Top break I frame needs reassembled

[malercous]

I have an early 20th cen. .32 I frame in pieces. I took it apart years ago to replace a part to get the SA working again. I ccomplished that, but then broke the cylinder stop. I managed to get a repro part, but can't get this thing back together (I came close, but it wasn't right).

I've had a couple local gunsmiths take the gun, then give it back with no explanation. I'm assuming these old guns are built differently & most gunsmiths today aren't familiar enough with them to put one back together.

Does anyone know who I could send this thing to who could put it back together?

 

[scooter123]

Do you have the Kuhnhausen Manual? If you don't get one. While I cannot remember if he covered the top breaks it does provide some coverage on the early had ejectors and the the triple action locks are ALL based on the same basic design.

Another option is to spend some time exploring Mark Novak's Home page and watching his video's. The guy is a fantastic classic do it all Gunsmith, something extremely rare today. Link Below.

Mark Novak - YouTube

Then there are the C&Rsenal videos which usually feature a short clip on how a particular guns lockwork functions. Lot's of revolvers in this series. Below is a video of a spanish copy of the early M&P but it features a short clip illustrating the lockwork of the early M&P. BTW if you have any interest in the 1911 they have a series of videos on it's development from the Colt 1900 thru the 1909/1910. I'll also warn you that you can get hooked on this web site, the entire series on the firearms used in WWI is fascinating.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qh2V8edh9zo[/ame]

BTW, Triple Action refers to a combination of Single Action and Double Action. So One plus Two equals Three. I don't know if it was the Brits or Belgium that originated the designation but it does make sense. Here in the states we have Double Action Only and then Double Action which really isn't very logical.

 

[malercous]

Thanks Scooter, but this thing has caused me way too much aggravation to attempt to work on it again. If I can't find someone who can put it back together I'll give it to Numrich so they can sell its parts.

Thanks, KRE

 

[Thuer]

Do not give up and take time to repair it. I do have lessons learned with a Iver Johnson model 1900 in .38S&W. Disassemble was no problem. But to put it together was a different story. I really do have learned a lot of new Dutch words which none of them will ever find a place in a dictionary. But, i managed and have it still in my collection. My question is what gives you the most problems? The cilinderstop? Is there a reboundslide with spring?

 

[gmarshall99]

Is your gun a top break or a hand ejector? I’ve had I frame hand ejectors open , cleaned, and reassembled, and they are just like the larger k frames, but all the parts are smaller. What is the serial number? Have photos to post? That would help diagnose your problem.

 

[malercous]

It's a top break DA 4th model. (Chrome, in VG condition) Very similar to the I-J's, but it's not the same. I'm done with working on this thing. I'll glady pay someone to put it back in working order, but I'm not going to waste any more of my time on it.
The S/N is 106491.

 

[BC38]

Where are you located malercous?
There may be an experienced gunsmith forum member close by who might volunteer to help.
Believe it or not that is the kind of folks who hang around here.
I've seen some of them make some pretty amazing efforts to help a new member (me) with a gunsmithing project like this.
Worth a shot....

 

[Alk8944]

If your gun is a top-break then it is not an I-Frame. All Letter-size designated guns are solid-frame with swing-out cylinders. Just why do you presume the gun is an I-Frame???

If your gun really is a 4th model D.A. is it a .32 or .38?

Where are you located? If it is practical, and assuming you have all the parts from the correct frame size I would look be glad to look at it for you as I have experience with the top-break guns.

A photo of the gun you are asking about would really be helpful to know what you are really talking about since apparently you do not know the difference between top-break and solid-frame revolvers!

 

[malercous]

I'm in Edwardsville, IL, a dozen miles from St Louis.

I figured the pistol was an I frame because it's dinky. It's definitely .32 S&W (short). All the parts are there.

I researched it years ago & have it down as a 4th model DA. The gun's in pieces so a photograph would be of a bunh of parts.

 

[Alk8944]

Unfortunately you are about 1,400 road miles from me. Not really doable.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

I have an early 20th cen. .32 I frame in pieces. I took it apart years ago to replace a part to get the SA working again. I ccomplished that, but then broke the cylinder stop. I managed to get a repro part, but can't get this thing back together (I came close, but it wasn't right).

I've had a couple local gunsmiths take the gun, then give it back with no explanation ...

You went to untalented gunsmiths. Not all gunsmiths got an "A" in class since a "C" is a passing grade.

Most handgun gunsmiths do Glocks and such. Revolvers not so much.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

I figured the pistol was an I frame because it's dinky. It's definitely .32 S&W (short). All the parts are there.

I researched it years ago & have it down as a 4th model DA. The gun's in pieces so a photograph would be of a bunh of parts.

A picture of the frame and another picture of the parts we can figure it out.

 

[malercous]

I'm Not sure how to add photos, the forum wants a url. This URL is my pistol.

Alk8944: I could mail this thing to you if you think you could get it working. I'll; be happy to pay you & for return shipping.

 

[BC38]

To create a new post with photos, start by clicking on the POST REPLY button at the bottom left corner of the page.
1) Type in whatever text you want to post
2) scroll down and click on the MANAGE ATTACHMENTS button
3) A new window will open
4) Click on the BROWSE button
5) open the folder on your computer containing your photos
6) Select a photo then click the UPLOAD button
7) Repeat this process for up to 5 photos per post.
8) When you have uploaded your photos, click on the words Close this window to the right of the window heading Manage Attachments
9) click on SUBMIT to finish your post.
This will create a new post with up to 5 "thumbnail" photos attached.

 

[malercous]

Thanks BC38.

 

[BC38]

Thanks BC38.

You're welcome.
I'm just happy to see that my instructions were actually clear enough for someone to follow them and successfully post a new picture.
That gives me a warm-fuzzy!