Top Break information

[kdailey]

I spend all my time in the hand ejector/revolver section, but I need some experts with top breaks to educate me on this one, because I know nothing about them. Any info on this one would be great. I gave $100 for it this morning locally, and I have no idea if that was good/bad. Last question, any idea who may have grips for it, as the left one is broke.

 

[Thuer]

Looks of someone has used a lot of polishsteam.
According of what I see it could be a double action 5th model.
If you can provide the number we can pointed it down.

I can't say anything about the value. Because in Holland the price range is different and this revolver has to be on a permitt.

 

[glowe]

Looks like you have a 38 Double Action, Third Model shipped from the factory in the late 1880s. Certainly qualifies as an antique by BATF standards. This model was made from 1884 to 1905, with serial number range from 119001 to 322700. Over 550,000 38 DAs were made, so value is not high. Your revolver has seen a lot of use as indicated by the worn checkering in the grips and it has been re-nickeled in the past as well.

If it locks up tight and is in sound shooting condition, it will handle current 38 S&W ammunition just fine. The price is OK if it functions without problems and you should be able to find replacement grips. I would consider replica grips from Vintage Gun Grips, since they are less expensive than an original set, plus are usually well made.

 

[kdailey]

By looking at the S&W Standard Catalog p.#83, the pics indicate that it would be .38 Double action 5th Model. But the serial #189260 would indicate 3rd Model. Mine has the integral forged front sight, which indicates Model 5 and perfected model. So I am still not sure. ......Bore is dark, the nickel finish doesn't look like my 29-2 nickel finish, action is not near as smooth as my Model 27. But the old top break does intrigue me.
Something new for me learn. Now I need to find some .38 S&W.

 

[glowe]

The identifying number of any revolver is usually the one on the butt, so the frame is 3rd Model. I am pretty certain that the butt number is the only one that the BATF will recognize as the gun's official identification and if that number is removed, it is not legal to own. If you look behind the latch, you will see a serial number on the barrel assembly and you also should have one on the bottom of the latch itself. The other place to look is at the rear of the cylinder. If all numbers match, you have all original parts. I would guess that you may have a replaced barrel, so the serial number probably will not match.

 

[kdailey]

I have checked all three numbers and they are a match.

 

[glowe]

You are correct that the 5th Model was the first to have a forged front sight, but I am pretty sure that your's is pinned. When the refinisher prepared the barrel for re-nickel, it looks like the pin was finished flat with the rib. Take a magnifier and see if you can see the pin under the nickel?

The forged sight, like that of a Perfected Model looks totally different than the flat blade front sight as I pictured the Perfected front sight below. I think you have an honest 3rd Model with all serial numbers matching.

 

[kdailey]

OK glowe, I see exactly what you are talking, and that explains the confusion on my part. Thanks for taking the time to help me see it. You guys are a wealth of knowledge. keith