Trigger job-speed hammer pics

[Allen 1]

In my original post titled -First post- I explaned how I did my 15-22 trigger job. It gained alot of interest.

People wanted to see how I did my "speed" hammer". Well, here ya go. I finally got some pics up as promised.

My 15-22

This is the modified "speed hammer" The rear "hook" has been removed to lighten the "mass".

This shows the JP reduced power springs installed.

Another view

This shows the foil tape I installed to fix the stock "wobble".

Vortex Strikefire - perfect co-witness.

UTG weapons light. Love this light!

ERGO Tactical grip.

Gripod - Yep, it's a real one!

 

[Grjfer]

Allen, thanks for taking the time to post the pictures. As they say "A picture is worth a thousand word".

 

[Gatillo]

Nice. I really liked your tape fix for the stock wobble. It's definitely on my "to do" list. Filling the buffer tube with ammo to balance out my rifle is another one of your nifty ideas that I incorporated. Thanks!

 

[Yuba]

Thanks Allen 1 for the pix, very helpful!

 

[Allen 1]

Sorry I took so long on the pics. Been busy around here.

I just hopes these pics help you all with your trigger projects.

If anyone has any questions or need to see other pics just let me know and I will help.

God bless.

 

[pghrich]

Very nice, the hammer looks like it grew there, thanks pghrich

 

[stavman11]

Worked on Mine a BIT today.... and Also re-adjusted my JP trigger system

See what she does this week....


Stav

 

[Majorlk]

What is the purpose of moding the hammer - decreased lock time?

 

[Allen 1]

When you do a trigger job using the JP reduced power springs you need to remove "mass" from the hammer.

The stock hammer spring works well with the stock hammer but we are no longer using the stock hammer spring.

We are now asking a "reduced" power spring to move the same "mass" as the stock spring.

This is where we run into trouble with "light strikes". The hammer never achieves full power to make a reliable strike.

So to overcome this, we must reduce the "mass" we are trying to move. So, by reducing the "mass" of the hammer we get it moving much faster and with a much more powerful "strike" resulting in reliable primer ignition using a reduced power spring.

What we are looking for is a relationship between parts that produce a lighter trigger pull and reliable ignition. This modification achieves this.

Counting the rounds I fired this past weekend, I have put well over 2000 rounds on this trigger and hammer and it has been flawless.

Stay safe and God bless.

 

[Majorlk]

Thanks for the explanation.

 

[riderrick65]

Reply to Thread

Thanks for the info. Allen1, how ever I have one question, what did you use to remove the "hook" from the hammer? I do know this much it is a hardened piece. I wish I would have had this info. when I first tried installing the JP yellow springs in my "rig".

 

[Allen 1]

Thanks for the info. Allen1, how ever I have one question, what did you use to remove the "hook" from the hammer? I do know this much it is a hardened piece. I wish I would have had this info. when I first tried installing the JP yellow springs in my "rig".

I simply used a Dremel Tool and the reinforced cutoff wheel. It cut pretty easily.

Once I had it removed I rounded the cut off with a sandpaper roll that came with the Dremel.

I then used some "cold blue" to finish it. Looks like a factory piece.

 

[riderrick65]

Reply to Thread

Thanks Allen 1, I'll give it a shot (no pun inteded).

 

[Allen 1]

I'm well over 5000 rounds on this trigger now and she runs like a clock.

Go for it guys!

 

[mkess]

Did this trigger job last week and took it out today. Noticeable difference in the feel of the trigger and not one issue

 

[Allen 1]

Excellent!

Did you also do the hammer modification?

 

[dannybot]

I did the JPE spring job, but kept the hammer stock. who would have ever thought $10 would make that much difference? I did not bob the hammer, and not experiencing any problems, but if I come across another hammer on the cheap, I might give it a try.

 

[pyper22]

When you do a trigger job using the JP reduced power springs you need to remove "mass" from the hammer.

The stock hammer spring works well with the stock hammer but we are no longer using the stock hammer spring.

We are now asking a "reduced" power spring to move the same "mass" as the stock spring.

This is where we run into trouble with "light strikes". The hammer never achieves full power to make a reliable strike.

So to overcome this, we must reduce the "mass" we are trying to move. So, by reducing the "mass" of the hammer we get it moving much faster and with a much more powerful "strike" resulting in reliable primer ignition using a reduced power spring.

What we are looking for is a relationship between parts that produce a lighter trigger pull and reliable ignition. This modification achieves this.

Counting the rounds I fired this past weekend, I have put well over 2000 rounds on this trigger and hammer and it has been flawless.

Stay safe and God bless.

you could also drill some holes in the trigger to lighting it. pyper

 

[Allen 1]

you could also drill some holes in the trigger to lighting it. pyper

I assume you mean hammer as apposed to trigger?

Remember that when you start drilling holes you weaken that part and open the door to "stress" fractures.

It's like taking a 2 foot long 2x4 and drilling holes in it. Indeed you have lightened it, but, you have also "weakened" it considerably. But, if you take that same 2x4 and cut it in half you not only "lighten" it you also retain its strength.

Now, if you indeed meant to drill holes in the trigger blade, that only makes a cosmetic / appearance change and weakens the trigger blade. It will in no way reduce the trigger pull. It would reduce the overall weight of the gun however, be it ever so minimal.

 

[brad.conner]

Well, Allen.... I did it.. Won't get to test fire until this weekend, but no issues.

I used a dremel cutoff disk, then did a small amount of sanding, and rounded the edges just a bit, and then polished with some fitz and hit it with my bluing pen.

I went for a bit more of the angular corners than you, trying to emulate the factory edges.