Trigger job
- Thread starter kimber70
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geddylee10002000
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Gun smith is the cheapest way to go. You could also send it to S&W. Do you have any mechanical skills? Do you have any tools to work on your pistol? Jerry Miculek has a very good instructional video on what you are looking for.
attn: Kimber 70
Welcome to the Forum. Can never have too many new members! By all means, take the 642 to a qualified gunsmith. I have found too much 'kitchen-table-ing' out there, to the point that I will not purchase a used revolver. So-called 'trigger jobs' are a constant irritation on used guns.
There ARE spring kits available, but a 'smith can advise you responsibly how to go about it. Please remember your 642 is a firearm, not a HS instructor's teaching aid.
Welcome to the Forum. Can never have too many new members! By all means, take the 642 to a qualified gunsmith. I have found too much 'kitchen-table-ing' out there, to the point that I will not purchase a used revolver. So-called 'trigger jobs' are a constant irritation on used guns.
There ARE spring kits available, but a 'smith can advise you responsibly how to go about it. Please remember your 642 is a firearm, not a HS instructor's teaching aid.
DonD
Member
Wolff springs may help you but you have to be sure that whatever you might put into the gun has enough power to ensure reliable primer ignition. Some may not. Don
Do a search there is a post I believe that a gentleman tries all of the spring kits available. I do not like to change a stock main spring on a carry gun but that's my opinion. Nothing will make up for a good stoning of the internals buy some snap caps and dry fire it couple hundred times before you do anything.
oneounceload
Member
Watching the video from Apex on you tube made it very easy to understand the process. Gunsmithertools.com has a tool designed to make the removal and installation of the rebound spring even easier - something I definitely need!
I second the recommendation of Jerry Miculek's "trigger job" DVD as he thoroughly explains the internals of the S&W revolver. I like his approach which is to do just a little bit of smoothing "here and there" that all adds up to a better DA pull, rather than concentrating on any one thing like just replacing springs.
I have a 432PD, which is DA only and followed his video to improve the trigger pull without sacrificing reliability. The compact J Frames do not take to having the coiled hammer mainspring messed with... they have to deliver a strong hammer hit to the primer while operating in a relatively limited (short stroke) space, compared to the larger frame S&W revolvers... stick with the stock spring.
The other part of this that has been mentioned is what is your skill level and are you equipped with the proper tools and the knowledge to use them correctly?
It just might be more cost efficient to just send it off to a place like Cylinder & Slide or other custom shop that tunes S&W's.
More harm than good has been done by people that take a stone to a part, and grind away thinking they are doing it properly when they are wearing through the thin layer of hardening and ruining the part.
Is your gun new? Dry firing and giving it a change to "break in" before deciding what to do does have merit. I have a Ruger SP101 that I did that with, it improved enough where I just left it alone.
I have a 432PD, which is DA only and followed his video to improve the trigger pull without sacrificing reliability. The compact J Frames do not take to having the coiled hammer mainspring messed with... they have to deliver a strong hammer hit to the primer while operating in a relatively limited (short stroke) space, compared to the larger frame S&W revolvers... stick with the stock spring.
The other part of this that has been mentioned is what is your skill level and are you equipped with the proper tools and the knowledge to use them correctly?
It just might be more cost efficient to just send it off to a place like Cylinder & Slide or other custom shop that tunes S&W's.
More harm than good has been done by people that take a stone to a part, and grind away thinking they are doing it properly when they are wearing through the thin layer of hardening and ruining the part.
Is your gun new? Dry firing and giving it a change to "break in" before deciding what to do does have merit. I have a Ruger SP101 that I did that with, it improved enough where I just left it alone.
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Cardboard_killer
Member
I would find a local smith with a good reputation and take it there. Give instructions for what the firearm's intended purpose is (i.e. carry, home defense, racing, range, etc.) and what you think you are looking for. My local guy will do a fine trigger job for $80, and I've never had a problem with reliability with his work. Takes a month or more though.
If used for self defense, after working on the trigger plan on shooting a couple of hundred rounds of whatever self defense ammo you plan to use in the firearm to ensure reliability. That will cost more than a trigger job, but is essential to give reasonable assurance that the firearm can be trusted in a fight. If you get misfires, take it back to the smith for adjustment, or send it to another smith explaining the history.
If used for self defense, after working on the trigger plan on shooting a couple of hundred rounds of whatever self defense ammo you plan to use in the firearm to ensure reliability. That will cost more than a trigger job, but is essential to give reasonable assurance that the firearm can be trusted in a fight. If you get misfires, take it back to the smith for adjustment, or send it to another smith explaining the history.
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I've used the Apex Duty Kit for J-frames. It contains new main and rebound slide springs, as well as a new firing pin. As the name implies, it is intended for guns that are carried. Most other spring kits are intended for range work, where a failure to fire will not cost you your life.
As previous posters have noted, any new, new-to-you, or modified gun should thoroughly tested with your carry ammo prior to actual carrying.
As previous posters have noted, any new, new-to-you, or modified gun should thoroughly tested with your carry ammo prior to actual carrying.
One thing to keep in mind is that dry firing doesn't replace gunsmithing. Dry firing will cause wear along parts where they contact each other. What if those parts are not currently fit well or have irregular surfaces? Creating more wear between improperly fitting parts only accelerates the demise of the parts.
Others have mentioned smithing, or stoning certain parts. What they are really telling you is that those parts need to be properly aligned and fitted and contact surfaces made smooth. You can do that yourself but be aware that altering parts that require well developed skills (sears) will create the kind of problem that others are warning you of. In other words, you stand a good chance of ruining a good revolver if you screw up the sears.
You could learn to work on your Smith, and it'll be a fun project. Just get a good understanding of what you're about to do and move forward with anything that you're uncomfortable with.
Others have mentioned smithing, or stoning certain parts. What they are really telling you is that those parts need to be properly aligned and fitted and contact surfaces made smooth. You can do that yourself but be aware that altering parts that require well developed skills (sears) will create the kind of problem that others are warning you of. In other words, you stand a good chance of ruining a good revolver if you screw up the sears.
You could learn to work on your Smith, and it'll be a fun project. Just get a good understanding of what you're about to do and move forward with anything that you're uncomfortable with.
Elliott41
Member
Four years ago I sent my 642 to S&W for its "J-frame action enhancement" package because I bought it new and didn't want to void the lifetime warranty. It was the best $80 I spent, significantly reducing the perceived trigger pull. They polished the rebound spring, hammer stud, and yoke barrel bosses; detailed the lockwork surfaces; and stoned the hammer and trigger contact areas. I unhesitatingly recommend it!
BJoe
Member
I look at the side plate screws. One that is 'buggered up' says a WHOLE lot about it's life.
attn BJoe
Thanks for the 'attaboy.' I'm actually surprised so many posters supported my suggestion on visiting a gunsmith and opposed spring and action self-mods. Often, someone will write in with a problem and 5 different people will suggest 5 completely different courses of 'kitchen-table' action. This worries me.
Thanks for the 'attaboy.' I'm actually surprised so many posters supported my suggestion on visiting a gunsmith and opposed spring and action self-mods. Often, someone will write in with a problem and 5 different people will suggest 5 completely different courses of 'kitchen-table' action. This worries me.
SgtLumpy
Member
Dentistry, brain surgery, gun smithery. No problem. Just go down to Home Depot and pick up some tools. Then watch a YouTube on how to do it.
Sgt Lumpy
Sgt Lumpy
BJoe
Member
The other side is that it is 'just' a 642 so if you want to learn this, pretty common, model is the one to learn on.
If you've never been behind the side plate of a S&W revolver then take it to a gunsmith and have him do the trigger job for ya.
When I first got my 442 second hand, I had intended it to be my concealed carry gun. The action seemed a little sluggish so I took it apart to clean and relube. While I had it apart, I smoothed the guts with an extra fine Arkansas oil stone and installed an 8 pound Wolff mainspring and an 11 pound Wolff rebound spring. Put a Pachmayr Compact grip and Laserlyte side mount laser on it. The action's crisp, light and I've never had a light strike. In fact it dents the primers deeper than my wife's factory stock 66-3 and my snubby goes with me everywhere everyday.
When I first got my 442 second hand, I had intended it to be my concealed carry gun. The action seemed a little sluggish so I took it apart to clean and relube. While I had it apart, I smoothed the guts with an extra fine Arkansas oil stone and installed an 8 pound Wolff mainspring and an 11 pound Wolff rebound spring. Put a Pachmayr Compact grip and Laserlyte side mount laser on it. The action's crisp, light and I've never had a light strike. In fact it dents the primers deeper than my wife's factory stock 66-3 and my snubby goes with me everywhere everyday.
Edmo
US Veteran
I ordered a Wilson Combat spring kit for my Model 642 and installed it myself. There are plenty of YouTube videos to show you both the right and wrong way to do most things. If you don't feel comfy doing it yourself, get one of your local gunsmiths to slick it up.
After many rounds and lots of dry fire, my 642's action is smoothing out nicely.
Edmo
After many rounds and lots of dry fire, my 642's action is smoothing out nicely.
Edmo
RGMoore
Member
You didn't mention (or maybe I missed it) how many times you have fired this revolver. When I first got mine the trigger felt like driving a car with steel wheels on a gravel road. After some dry firing and shooting it was much better. Not 686 smooth but better.
