trigger jobs

[motonut]

Just wondering if this is the firt time you have done this kind of install and how hard was it. I am thinking of trying it myself, so looking for feedback.

I am not a gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination. I regularly do field strips but don't go much further than that. I have been buying some instructional videos so I can start completely disassembling my firearms but I'm not there yet.I have installed trigger spring kits in both the M&P 15 and the M&P 15-22.

That being said I followed the YouTube videos and installed the full Duty/Cary kit without much trouble. Some say they can do it in under 30 min. but it took me about 90 min. because I kept reviewing the videos and double checking my work. I could do the 2nd on in under 30 min. though.

It's not a difficult task but if you're mechanically challenged I would let a gunsmith do it.

 

[Titegroups]

Easy installation of the sear, getting the rear sight off to install the striker block kit is more difficult, but putting in just the sear makes a big difference. If your not mechanical at all I probably would get a gunsmith to put it in. The youtube videos are a big help.

 

[motonut]

To me, the rear sight for striker block was easiest, the sear was just a little harder (not much), the trigger spring was the most difficult. But even that wasn't real hard.

It's not mentioned in the videos (they're updating them now they say) but Apex includes a "silver bullet" for assisting with the trigger assy reinstall. I didn't know what it was for until I emailed them after I did the install, I thought I had a left over part.

 

[Sooner79]

I just installed the Apex sear and USB this weekend. It was a breeze except for removing the rear sight, which was a bit stubborn. The whole job took about 45 minutes and I am amazed at how much smoother the trigger pull is. You really need to experience it to believe it. I can't wait to get it to the range.

 

[WilliamB]

I kept looking at the "silver" bullet and couldn't figure it out. I was about ready to make a slave pin as the video uses and then it dawned on me that this "silver bullet" was the same dimension. Very pleased with Apex - well worth the money.

 

[Szumi]

I put 350 rounds through my 40c before installing the hard sear and usb. A lighter trigger isn't that much of an issue since:

1 The striker has an automatic safety.
2 My pistol has a thumb safety
3 I carry using a holster. No improvised stuff.
4 I keep my darn finger off the trigger until ready
to shoot.

How well it works out accuracy wise, well that will have to wait until this weekend when I can get to the range.

Szumi

 

[Mikie]

In Massachusetts all guns need to meet special requirements by law. The M&Ps that are MA-compliant have a very heavy trigger pull >> 10 lbs. Just about everyone who purchases one immediately pays for a trigger job, especially if they plan on using it for IDPA. I checked out an IPDA shooter's M&P and it had a great trigger, probably 4 lbs or less and no creep or grittiness.

 

[Spencer4006]

Polymer pistols will never have the triger pull of metal on metal guns... Just sayin... A s&w m&p will never have the trigger of a 1911. The design is just not thereots designed as a service pistol and thats just the way it is

 

[Dean1818]

Its a matter of personal preference

To me, having a carry gun with a trigger pull of less than 4 pounds is just plain dangerous

I have a 45c, great ergos, fit my hand very well.

BUT.... Out of the box.... The trigger pull was gritty and about 7 to 8 pounds

I did the DIY "burwell" trigger job, and it now breaks a little less than 5 pounds and is MUCH smoother...... Love it!

Very accurate and enough trigger pull to be safe

I just purchased a Shield in 40.

It had a much better stock trigger, but was around 6 pounds of
Pull. I did a partial DIY trigger job and it now has a very similar
pull To my M&P 45c

A few points i would like to state.

1) the Burwell type DIY is incredibly easy. Just go slow and check often..... Keep the weight above 4.5 pounds.
(the shield took much less than 30 mins)

Dont be the guy that took the trigger down to 2 pounds on his CCW and has negligent discharge that hurts someone

If you go slow, and follow the directions you can easily get the trigger to that 4.5 to 5 lb range


2) on the shield, I didnt round the striker block, I just slightly re-angled the sear and polished the contact points

I wanted to match the trigger pull weight between the two pistols.

However, If I just had the Shield, I probably would have just shot 300 rounds and see how smooth it was.

The stock shield trigger is MUCH better than the stock M&P 45c trigger

Shoot the new pistol first, put a few hundred rounds. If you dont like it
Then consider the trigger job.

 

[PERAZZI]

I concur with Dean1818, my MP 9F had the gritty trigger. I also did the Burwell DIY trigger job and I'm also at the 5# range much improved.

 

[walkin' trails]

Those of you who cut your teeth on action pistol shooting and are regular USPSA or IDPA shooters can ignore this...

I seem to be among the fortunate few who bought an M&P with what I consider a semi-decent trigger out of the box. My carry pistols for about 20 years were Glocks with 5.5 lb triggers. The factory trigger on my 45 FS was probably a pound to a pound-and-a-half heavier than the Glock triggers I was used to, but the reset was not perceptively different. From the start, I shot pretty well with the M&P despite the heavier trigger - certainly no worse than I did with a Glock, and probably better than I ever shot with a S&W K-frame revolver with a massaged action.

I would tell anyone who is comtemplating trigger work on their M&P, especially a new M&P that is going to be used for self defense to first lube the pistol, including action components, and then conduct a bunch of dry fire drills. Dry firing may make the trigger somewhat smoother over time, but what will really happen is that the shooter will get used to the trigger and learn how to drop the striker without disturbing the front sight. Next, go to the range and perform live fire drills, also ensuring that the pistol has been lubed properly. A drop of good synthetic oil or grease on the mating points of the action components does wonders - sort of like putting a drop of oil on the connector-trigger bar of your Glock. After a lot of dry fire followed by live fire while practicing the fundamentals of marksmanship, mixed with more dry fire, the trigger may have smoothed out some, but you're just as likely to have gotten used to and learned to control the trigger.

I had trigger jobs performed on a couple of K-frames, one which I used to carry on duty. While it was something to brag about, it didn't really improving my shooting. I also played with 3.5 lb connectors in Glocks, with and without NY-1 modules. Again, didn't really improve my shooting. Dry fire did improve my shooting. I played with a fellow shooter's competetion only Glock 35 with a trigger pull measured in single digit ounces once and just about ventalated the range floor because I was apparently prepping the trigger as soon as I was out of the holster and a hair trigger brought the issue to light. If all of the fundamentals are practiced until you've just about mastered them, then I'd say you should explore trigger options (for a competetion or range only pistol) if you think it will help. But for the M&P, unless you are forced to buy one with a state mandated heavy trigger, I still gotta say to lube and dry fire a lot before spending the money to modify the pistol.

One aftermarket modification that many pistol shooters overlook is sights. I found that the factory sights on most pistols are not for everyone. Shop around and select a set of sights that cause your eye(s) to easily pick up on as you present the pistol. I've experienced a number of different designs over the years, from factory offerings to big white dots to fiber optics and night sights. The best sights for my eyes are the Heinies with their crispy serrated front sight ramp. I consider money spent on good aftermarket sights to be money well spent, whether its a pistol for defense, competetion, or just plinking. Good sights do improve shooting performance if a shooter has a good grasp of the fundamentals and understands how to take advantage of them.

 

[giddyupsut]

If you ever end up using your firearm in self defense, I would not volunteer the information that it has had a trigger job.
Just saying........

 

[M_E_]

Why not just overcome trigger issues? You know how much $$$ these guys are making because they offer a lighter trigger? Hey, it's a PISTOL, not a 2,000 yard sniper rifle.

Learn to shoot what you have~ then learn to shoot it better!!

 

[gnystrom]

If you know the basics, much of accurate pistol shooting is in your head. If YOU feel better having a smoother, lighter trigger, I say go for it. It will make you want to shoot the gun better and the results will show. Personally I own only one handgun without some form of trigger work. A Kahr PM9 that has been perfect from day one.

 

[Coastie762]

My experience with the Apex kits has been overwhelmingly positive. The roughness or "gritty" trigger many complain of seems to come from the interaction between the trigger bar and striker block during the take up. If you do nothing else but replace the striker block with an Apex one, or radius the factory striker ala Burwell the feel of the pistol will be much improved. Trigger pull weight will not be affected.

If you install just the sear and striker block, trigger pull weight may drop to or below 4 lbs. For a carry pistol, this may be too light for some. Adding the DCAEK trigger return spring will increase the pull weight to 5-5.5 lbs. Trigger operation with the full DCAEK kit, in my opinion, has a much better feel to me than the stock trigger.

As usual, YMMV.

 

[BigIdeas]

Last April I bought a new M&P 9c and it had a "gritty trigger". I decided to learn how to shoot it as is. When I brought it home from the gun shop I cleaned and lube it per the enclosed literaure. After 500 rounds I decided the trigger had gotten as good as it was going to get, so I decided that the oil between the block and the firing pin was not good enough lubrication as the trigger feel would change as the oil wore off the parts. So I now lube the sliding parts of the trigger group w/Amsoil NLGI #2 general purpose synthetic grease. The trigger is much more consistant over the course of 200 rounds, grittiness eliminated, groups tightened up and the trigger effort was ever so slightly reduced. It saved me $100.00 trigger job. I love this gun now and it's my primary carry piece.

 

[Dean1818]

I forgot to add that if someone decides to do the DIY route, if you screw it up, (highly doubtful) you can always get another sear from S&W

Its not expensive.

 

[walkin' trails]

I would also like to point out that most, if not all major law enforcement agencies do not allow modifications, other than grips or sights to issued or authorized pistols carried on or off duty. That forces the firearms instructors to tell their shooters to practice and get used to the triggers. Every once in a while, Massad Ayoob highlights a law enforcement officer who won an action pistol championship with his/her issued/authorized duty pistol, heavy trigger and all, emphasizing that it can be done! There are some handguns out there with truely horrendous triggers: I have fired some of them. Fortunantly I do not have to carry them, and few of them are what I would consider "mainstream."

 

[Madgolfr1]

Okay, not trying to start a flame war here, so please don't.

This is so very serious, so I am asking this.

I have about 20 years shooting civilian and military, from 22's, to assault rifles on full auto, to explosives, and grenade launchers.

Here goes:

What is up with all of this "gritty" trigger ****? What about all of this putting apex triggers on a weapon out of the box?

Here is a post from OCDO I am part of:



6000 times over several weeks? I called this the TJM, or Trigger Job Mafia.

When did all of these new pistols need trigger jobs? If so many need trigger jobs, then why aren't the triggers being made like this out of the box?

What do people mean the M&P has a "gritty" trigger? Mine is smooth as silk.

Only thing I did to mine was take it home, shoot it, clean it and put it away.

Has the handgun crowd become like the PC crowd, where new gear is bought just to mod it to say it was done?

What does this APEX trigger job that makes the M&P so much better? If it is so much better, and so many people are doing it, why hasn't S&W just changed the trigger around?

I am confused.

I am also confused because my 9c is used for EDC and it was designed for self defense not competition. When and ever I need to use it for defense all I care about is doing what was designed for and I could care less about the trigger grittiness which I do not experience.

 

[Jyezahn]

In the case of my 40c, (which is my range pistol and will be used for EDC/HD) there were machine marks on the trigger bar that caused a gritty feeling up until the break point. I ground those out and polished it which removed most of that gritty feeling. When my 40c is field stripped, and I push the striker safety in the same way the trigger bar interacts with it, there is some more grit. Searching online for this, I found removing it and using a dremel bit on the hole face, cleaned this grit up. Next, I hated the squishy feeling of the original polymer swing-trigger, so I ordered an Apex AEK Trigger. It came the next day and I installed it to much satisfaction. Now I have NO gritty feeling, NO squishy trigger pull, shorter take-up, minimal over-travel, and I can actually feel the reset. I'm much happier with my trigger now, which means I am not focused on the one thing that I didn't like about my 40c.

If my life may depend on it, I want to be 100% happy with it. And I am.