Trigger Pull Length

[alumltd]

Re: M&P-15 Sporter hammer falls @ 5.8#'s... super crisp & perfect for me with 1 exception... pull is too long

Is there a user method to shorten pull?

If so, would appreciate someone's technical expertise & where explanation reference may be found.

Many thanks, y'all!

 

[thecatch8]

Did you measure it? The stock trigger is the basic AR GI trigger and it is really crappy.......you could change out the springs, but then you would just have a crappy trigger with decent springs. I would strongly consider changing it out!

 

[robkarrob]

The following link will definitely help shorten take-up. The link doesn't show how to adjust the reset, which can be done by grinding/filing the disconnector. You have to make sure the disconnector works properly, it is a fine adjustment.

Check this link:

Junk Yard Genius.com AR-15/M-16 Pages, page 1.


The issues with the reset and disconnector are explained in more detail in post #4 of this thread: http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...9217-joe-bob-grip-screw-trigger-adjuster.html

Bob

 

[MichiganScott]

If you have a 6# GI trigger that's super crisp, you have a real gem. My wife's M&P has a crisp 7# trigger that actually feels much lighter.

Trigger pull length in a rifle is usually defined as the distance from the trigger face to the end of the buttstock. Trigger pull in a handgun is from the face of the trigger to the rear of the grip.

Are you asking about take-up before trigger release or about one of the above descriptions?

 

[robkarrob]

I made a thread back in November, stating my new 15T had a great trigger pull. It had minimal take-up, minimal over-travel, a smooth pull to a crisp break. It also had a 4.5 pound pull. I've had several ARs', and this was my first S&W rifle, which had the best stock AR trigger pull I have ever felt. My thread question was "is this the normal S&W AR trigger?" The answer was that I was lucky and got a much better than normal trigger. So my trigger had all the right tolerances fall in line, to make a great stock trigger pull. Not the normal, but it can happen once in a while.

Bob

 

[WR Moore]

"Adjusting" AR triggers can be an expensive learning experience. Since you find the weight and crispness acceptable I'd suggest the following:

Semi-auto rifles are designed to have comparatively long/stiff trigger to keep from having mechanically induced unintentional discharges as well as negligent discharges (user error). This is especially true of rifles initially designed as combat arms. I'd suggest trying a few WWII era military rifles for comparison.

If you're using the conventional rifle trigger manipulation, it's going to drive you nuts. What seems to work best for me is to move the trigger contact point to very near the first (end) joint of the trigger digit and 'roll' the trigger rather than trying the incremental pull. [Kinda like a double action revolver.] You can do very good work in this manner.

 

[alumltd]

I probably should have titled this thread, "Elimination of Trigger Creep".

Many thanks for the "school calls" on what to do.

Will try the polish job first & see what I get!

 

[MichiganScott]

So, in other words, your trigger is not real crisp but is creepy.

 

[alumltd]

Michigan Scott, that is correct.

Just 2 too much travel B4 the break... feels like 1/2", but of course it's not really. Just too much "engagement", for lack of a better term.

 

[Rastoff]

I agree that the basic trigger has way too much creep. It's one aspect of the AR that makes it so easy to fix in the field.

Even with all that creep, I found that polishing the sear and reducing the weight of the hammer spring made it much nicer. There's still a lot of creep, but it's nice and smooth now so, it's easier to just continually build pressure until it fires.

 

[MichiganScott]

The only way to eliminate the creep is an aftermarket trigger or switching GI parts. If you want a single stage, there are plenty on the market, Unfortunately, most cost close to $200.

I'm an old high power shooter, so I prefer a two stage. Rock River makes a great one for about $100. Never used a DPMS, but they have one that also runs about $100. Top end can run considerably more.

Polishing or trying to alter a GI trigger can cause problems if improperly done because of the thin case hardened finish.

 

[thecatch8]

I've said it before, and I will beat the horse to death......ALG ACT trigger with JP 3.5 lbs. yellow springs.....$75, and you won't look back!