Trigger pull/Sight picture-Airweight

Thanks to you Sir!

I understand longer barrels and sight pictures and such, but I didn't realize how much harder it is to shoot/be accurate with a snubbie.

I love it!! I think this is going to be my EDC. Both of my .40's are locked up, so I guess it is? Good God, I hope I don't have to buy another...:rolleyes:

I ran 100 rounds through it today. I found as my hand started to hurt/get tired, that if I gripped it a little higher and somewhat tighter, it wasn't so snappy.

Thanks again for the "jump start", it would be quite the struggle trying to figure out what works. (back to the soccer game).
 
If I use the first joint when shooting a J frame, the tip of my trigger (sausage) finger hits the trigger guard and slows down the trigger pull.
It gets sort of caught between the rear of the trigger and the trigger guard.
 
No problem and glad I could help out. I'm not sure where I came up with that method of the spent shell, but I'm sure I probably saw it on here.
 
I'm still deciding if the 1st joint or the 2nd joint of my sausage is more comfortable. If I use #1, I have your problem, if I use #2, then I have to adjust my thumb on my support hand as the two try to occupy the same space!. Tried the tea-cup method some, still have to work it out. Only my 2nd range trip. 100 rounds today!!!

If I use the first joint when shooting a J frame, the tip of my trigger (sausage) finger hits the trigger guard and slows down the trigger pull.
It gets sort of caught between the rear of the trigger and the trigger guard.

Where ever you got it, it was a quick way to find the issue.

Lucky, I go to a little 5 lane indoor range on Sunday mornings about every 6-8 weeks and I'm usually by myself. They leave me alone as I work on my SD stuff. I ONLY do that when no one else is on the range. They see me on the camera, but they also respect I'm safe and only do it when I'm alone. Hard to find a place to draw from a holster.

No problem and glad I could help out. I'm not sure where I came up with that method of the spent shell, but I'm sure I probably saw it on here.
 
Pad of finger - single action pull (semi or revolver)

First joint - double action pull (again, semi or revolver)

The drawback of a couble action auto is that you must shift from a double-action grip to a single-action grip after the first shot. Some agencies have gone to training drills that have students shoot one double action then one single action then decock and holster to get students used to starting with the double action pull.
 
Right now I am doing Everything DA. The trigger pull is already smoother and feels lighter than the 12 lb rating. After I get the DA down, I figure the SA "should" be a breeze.
 
25 replies and no one bothers to mention the importance of gripping a revolver as high up on the grip as you can? This is the most important thing thats going to influence ANY trigger pull, double OR single. That hammer should be almost touching that finger webbing, but not quite, with each stroke. The lower down you are gripping on ANY revolver, I dont care the size, the more you are letting the piece of metal in your hand dictate its movement for you, instead of the other way around.

Once you commit that grip to muscle memory everything else falls into place.

Just my 2 cents, but I think youll find most proficient shooters (at least combat shooter/the kind of shooting youd be doing with a gun specific to concealment) adopt this method. If not, give it a try
 
If I use the first joint when shooting a J frame, the tip of my trigger (sausage) finger hits the trigger guard and slows down the trigger pull.
It gets sort of caught between the rear of the trigger and the trigger guard.

Same here. Only on my J frames.
 
Do I get partial credit as a newb, even if it wasn't for the right reason?:D

I ran 100 rounds through it today. I found as my hand started to hurt/get tired, that if I gripped it a little higher and somewhat tighter, it wasn't so snappy.

Great tip, thank you!

25 replies and no one bothers to mention the importance of gripping a revolver as high up on the grip as you can? This is the most important thing thats going to influence ANY trigger pull, double OR single. That hammer should be almost touching that finger webbing, but not quite, with each stroke. The lower down you are gripping on ANY revolver, I dont care the size, the more you are letting the piece of metal in your hand dictate its movement for you, instead of the other way around.

Once you commit that grip to muscle memory everything else falls into place.

Just my 2 cents, but I think youll find most proficient shooters (at least combat shooter/the kind of shooting youd be doing with a gun specific to concealment) adopt this method. If not, give it a try
 
For me the "pad of the index finger" vs. "first joint of the index finger" debate is settled. I have large thin hands with long fingers. If I use the first joint method with my 638, the tip of my index finger hits my left thumb before the gun goes off which really hurts accuracy and a steady trigger pull.

However, the stock springs in the J-frame cause a long and heavy double-action trigger pull. The best thing I did was install an Apex Tactical J-Frame trigger spring kit. I estimate it takes the pull weight down from 12-14 lbs. down to 9-10 lbs. and makes the whole stroke smoother. This kit is money well-spent.

I've shot a 625 in USPSA competition for several years using the pad of my index finger. After reading Grant Cunningham's revolver book (he's a big "first joint" advocate) I decided to try the first joint method for a few weeks. My scores and accuracy went to hell and I've reverted back to the pad of the index finger method.

Good dry firing practice with any size revolver will quickly show whether your double action trigger pull is moving the sights.

One commentator's remark about gripping the revolver as high as possible is very good advice. However, gripping the gun that high means that your trigger finger is actually pointed a about 10 to 15 degrees downward (assuming the barrel is horizontal) so you aren't pulling the trigger directly back but rather back and a bit up. So when you practice dry firing, make sure you use the highest grip possible and be mindful of your trigger stroke.

Good luck with your snubbie. And don't let any problems shooting it discourage you from trying revolvers with larger frames. They are much easier to shoot.
 

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