+1 on the small screwdriver school of thought.
A small flat blade to lift the spring off and a small (#2?) phillips to put it back on.
A small flat blade to lift the spring off and a small (#2?) phillips to put it back on.
Trigger Rebound Spring Tool Necessary?
- Thread starter zogger
- Start date
I use the Brownells tool and my life has been much happier since I bought it. I did have to widen the slot slightly for an airweight - I think they have fatter pins.
Bill In Texas
Member
I, like others have mentioned used a small screwdriver and a plastic bag when I replaced the springs in my Model 60. I do like the ball point pen idea though.
I use a flat blade screwdriver with a tip that was ground down a bit by the armorer instructor at the factory . . .
Pretty much the way I have been doing it. I have the Wheeler bit kit for my hollow ground screwdriver bits and after seeing people talk about the Wheeler spring bit I had a look. My kit has one. I will probably still use my phillips head screwdriver.
OP
zogger
Member
After careful thought (and taking into account my limited skill set), I went with the SmithMaster tool.
So this morning I put the Wolff spring kit into my Model 60-15. I put in the 13 lb rebound spring with the 8 lb hammer spring.
The tool helped alot with the rebound spring. It made the job pretty easy. However getting the new hammer spring in was harder. I had issues getting the spring with the plastic cap compressed enough to get a paper clip to hold it. However after awhile, I got it and then things went smoothly.
BTW, while removing and installing the springs, etc. I had the gun inside a large plastic bag so as not to lose any parts. It was awkward, but it worked. Also, with my gun, you need the cylinder to be locked in place or you can't pull back the hammer. Is this normal?
The trigger in DA seems quite a bit smoother and noticeably less trigger pull. The SA is quite crisp. I don't have a trigger pull gauge, so I can't give you the lbs before and after.
So now I need to get to the range t make sure there are no light primer strikes. If I do, I will need to go up in rebound spring poundage. If so, having the tool will make this easier.
So this morning I put the Wolff spring kit into my Model 60-15. I put in the 13 lb rebound spring with the 8 lb hammer spring.
The tool helped alot with the rebound spring. It made the job pretty easy. However getting the new hammer spring in was harder. I had issues getting the spring with the plastic cap compressed enough to get a paper clip to hold it. However after awhile, I got it and then things went smoothly.
BTW, while removing and installing the springs, etc. I had the gun inside a large plastic bag so as not to lose any parts. It was awkward, but it worked. Also, with my gun, you need the cylinder to be locked in place or you can't pull back the hammer. Is this normal?
The trigger in DA seems quite a bit smoother and noticeably less trigger pull. The SA is quite crisp. I don't have a trigger pull gauge, so I can't give you the lbs before and after.
So now I need to get to the range t make sure there are no light primer strikes. If I do, I will need to go up in rebound spring poundage. If so, having the tool will make this easier.
Nope. Take em out with a screwdriver, put em back in with a ball point pen.
Lou_the_welder
Member
I use a flat screwdriver and a ball point pen. A parker works the best.
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
TAC
Member
I've worked on dozens of S&W revolvers over the last 40+ years. I finally bought a SmithMaster trigger spring tool. It was the best tool I ever bought. It paid for itself by not loosing springs from flying across the room, scratching parts, and cut fingers. It's made very well, and works great!
snowman
Member
zogger: Pardon me if I misunderstand you here. Are you thinking that a heavier rebound spring would eliminate light strikes?
If so, I believe I'm correct in saying that only the hammer spring controls hammer force, which of course controls reliable primer ignition. The rebound spring ensures reliable trigger reset, and helps control trigger pull weight. Changing rebound springs therefore wouldn't affect light strikes.
I think that that is correct. If it isn't, I'm sure someone will be along shortly to correct ME.
Just trying to help you avoid a rabbit trail here if possible.
Best wishes in your adjustments,
Andy
OP
zogger
Member
Interesting. If the hammer spring is the only thing that can effect light primer strikes, why do the kits provide 3 different rebound spring weights? I guess if I have issues, I will find out!
TAC
Member
To alter the weight of the trigger pull.
snowman
Member
zogger: What TAC said above. Wolfe offers 3 rebound springs to give you a choice. When I installed their springs in one of my Smiths, I chose the one in the middle of the pack, if I remember correctly. The resulting trigger pull was light enough to suit me, and heavy enough to keep me from short-stroking the trigger on follow-up shots(that wouldn't necessarily have happened anyway, but a little additional pull weight tends to prevent it).
To clarify my earlier post just a bit, there CAN BE other factors involved when one gets light primer strikes -just not the weight of the rebound spring.
Regards,
Andy
To clarify my earlier post just a bit, there CAN BE other factors involved when one gets light primer strikes -just not the weight of the rebound spring.
Regards,
Andy
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Frizzman
US Veteran
I find the tool I use, made by Gunsmither, makes life easier for me. In my case, shaky hands with fumble fingers guided by sixty three year old eyes make the tool essential. I don't want to hunt for springs that fly into an unseen dimension never to return. I guess I could fashion some sort of tool but I'm too fond of repose and don't care to bother with it. If stripping a S&W revolver lockwork is a very rare occurrence, the expense may not be worth it but it has been to me.
OP
zogger
Member
That was the conclusion I eventually came to. I am 65 and have the eyes and hands to prove it. The tool made it much easier to put in the springs.
OP
zogger
Member
Thanks for the info.
BigDog48
US Veteran
No, and it doesn't fit around the pin in Airweights. I returned it to Midway, a company I usually love, and becasue of their return shipping charge (which covered the price of the shipping for the return label I got with the RMA) it cost me 50 cents more to return it than to throw it away. It was a $5 part.
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OLDSTER
Member
I use the same sophisticated tool as Jerry Miculek; a BIC ball point pen. Have used it for at least four trigger jobs, and numerous inner cleanings. Works like a charm 
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