trigger suggestion?

[madballvm]

Hey all, First time posting here so let me start with thanks for all the info I have alreadys gotten off the site from the older threads.

Now my mp has a few thousand rounds throught it and the fail to eject problem has gotten much worse(can't even get 3 mags out with out having a FTE).

So since the gun is going back to S&W I figure I have time to order a trigger while its out then I can slap it in and have a blast when it finally back.

What are you guys using for a better trigger? Will the m&p take any AR trigger.

If so I was thinking the spikes battel trigger for 2 reasons
1. its a little hard for bench shooting but Id like to use it for a 22. carbine match which has you moving and "doubble tapping" paper targets so something super soft isnt really ideal
2. the price is right. I dont mean to sound cheap but puting a $200 RRA trigger in a $400 gun dosent add up to me?

this is the trigger that I was talking about:
ST Battle Trigger Set [SLA01BT] - $59.95 : Spikes Tactical


Thanks for any advice!

 

[yeren]

Jard single stage non-adjustable 2lb. Works fine. KNS-anti-walk pins same time. Remeber that ar-15 trigger need small free travel for avoid douple fire.....
And about ejecting problems......needs only light bending ejector ....very light. Here is a video somewhere about it.

 

[Rustpot]

The ST trigger might just be a GI set with a slicker coating on the parts. Smooth is only one aspect of a desirable trigger. Smooth is controlled by the finish, but things like take-up (pre travel), creep, over travel, stacking, and let off are controlled by the geometry and how well the parts fit and interact. It'll no doubt be better than lowest-bidder stock parts, but not be near a trigger in the $100-200 range.

It does look like it takes standard springs so you can likely use theirs, the S&W blue springs, or get the JP reduced power set for $10 and see what gives you solid engagement and primer strikes without being unnecessarily heavy.

4-5 pounds is a good weight for a trigger you don't want to have go off as you're staging it and finalizing sight picture. Let us know how it works, hope your gun gets back from S&W in tip top shape.

 

[chuck s]

Most any AR15 fire control parts will work in the M&P15-22. Notched hammers seem to cause problems in some, though. There is no take-up in the standard M16/AR15 trigger. The sear is moving as soon as the trigger makes any movement. Should be no surprise as the sear is the front tip of the hammer.

The Spikes Tactical Trigger must be wonderful. After all it's "Tactical," the most over-used meaningless term this side of "National Match!" I guess calling it "Ninja" would seem high school-ish.

No reason not to try it though. If you do let us know. Comes with the USGI springs which are pretty heavy but there are lots of spring sets available for this trigger.

-- Chuck

 

[BritDan]

The ST trigger might just be a GI set with a slicker coating on the parts.

It is exactly that. They send off stock triggers to have them coated in the nickel boron finish by Fail Zero. I have one in my 15-22 (using the stock 15-22 springs). As far as GI triggers go, it is one of the better ones as Rustpot here says; smooth and well finished, and much better than the trigger that came with my 15-22 (which was one of the gritty ones) but I have to say the stock trigger in my M&P15T is better than the Spikes....that one is just one of the lucky ones and the best trigger I have ever had in an AR by a long way. The Spikes breaks similar to that trigger, but there is a little bit of takeup with it - on my M&P15T there is absolutely no takeup at all (lucky/rare in a stock GI trigger).

If you want to stay with a GI trigger, you might also look at the LWRC - similar concept to the Spikes but I believe they use a better quality underlying trigger, and their QC is higher on trigger parts. But its a bit more expensive ($80)....I've no experience with it so can't say how it is over the Spikes.

The thing with GI triggers (again, as Rustpot has already said) is the whole unpredictability thing - there are a few gems out there which are really very nice for what they are; but there are lots that are just crap. The coated ones certainly increase your odds and steer you towards the better end of the spectrum, and you won't get the gritty feeling (if you get a tiny bit when new, it will certainly smooth out within 200 rounds, unlike some non-coated triggers)....but you will still find that some are better than others. If you do drop one in, I'd recommend staying with your existing reduced power springs in the 15-22.

 

[Hobie1]

Gritty

My 15-22 had a heavy gritty trigger when I got it. I started looking around at the after-market triggers and was having a hard time wrapping my head around a $200 trigger on a $400 gun. I watched the "15 minute trigger job" and didn't like the idea of cutting the spring. Then I found out about the J-P spring set and I bought them. I followed one of the suggestions about using Flitz on the sear area and I used some and dry-fired the action, not letting the hammer contact the front of the receiver, about 25 times. I then dis-assembled the FCG, completely cleaned everything, and re-assembled the group using the new springs. I put a couple of drops of CLP on the pins pivot area and following J-P suggestion, I used 60% Moly on the sear area. Just a tiny bit. Moly is great because it's useful in high pressure applications and it doesn't migrate like oil. It also imbeds itself into the application. I now have a very consistent nice trigger for $15 and I like it a lot.
I was at the range last week-end and using a bi-pod and a good cheek weld, no bag, shot one ragged hole groups repeatedly using CCI minimags. I was shooting as fast as I was safely capable and was grinning like crazy when I saw the results.
Good luck to you!

Hobie

 

[Hobie1]

pics in post

Those two targets are at 50'. On the cat, the bottom pattern, can't really call it a group, was using Fed. Bulk. The ragged hole at the top is CCI minimags as well as the dot target. Although I didn't drill all the black dots, I noticed a great deal of consistency in shot placement.

Great addition to my collection!

Hobie

 

[lonejacklarry]

I put a Geissele SSA in both my 15-22 and my 15-T. I think they are great!

Yes, I know that some think that putting a $300 dollar trigger on a $400 rifle is silly. Your choice, I guess, but I wanted to keep the two rifles triggers the same so I ended up putting a $185 trigger on both a $400 15-22 and a $1,150 15-T. Does that sound better? (I didn't put a EOTech 557 w/ 3X magnifer on the 15-22, however-there are limits).

Some will opine that trigger work or different springs work for way less money. Go that route if you want to-it's up to you. If financial consideration is a large issue, do what your checkbook (and the mrs.) will allow. There is no "best and cheapest" way.

I notice that Botach has the Geissele SSA for $170 w/ free shipping. I would, however, check the forum posts for Botach and their customer service before ordering.

 

[Hobie1]

Best and cheap

Well, I guess the issue is why start out cheap and spend lots of cash to get a platform "right'?

I own a Les Baer Premier 6" .45 acp, a Clark modified Ruger MKII, and a S&W 41, all with exceptional triggers.

I like the fact that my 15-22s can be modified to have reasonably smooth triggers without having to add to the cost of a recreational fun gun.

I'm pleased with the improved operation of my FCG and if someone wants to spend money to improve their's to their satisfaction, more power to them.

Hobie

After all, it's only money....

 

[gcsniper]

I have a 3# timney skel on mine and am very happy with it. It works exclnt and is worth the money. I know some don't wan't to spend the money but some items are worth it (also got $600 in optics on it).

 

[Rustynail70]

I Have the spikes trigger in my 15-22. I like it very much over stock. Not really that expensive as far as triggers go. Looks good too. I also put in a set of JPs 3.5 springs.

 

[chuck s]

I've had an Accuracy Speaks single stage trigger in my early, handled semi-only M4 Carbine for 15-20 years. Wonderful trigger but really needs expert installation.

My others all have either ArmaLite or Rock River 2-stage triggers as they're drop-in. The 2-stage works well in the M&P15-22 but I ain't spending a lot of money on my plinker.

The "15 minute trigger job" works as well as the JP Yellow springs and both are better than stock for no or minimal cost. $60 for trigger parts will buy me 2000 rounds of .22LR if I buy in bulk.

-- Chuck

 

[Rustynail70]

For me having to pull the trigger 2000 times and not like the way it feels was way worth the 2000 rounds to enjoy the next xxxxxxxxthousand rounds. Guns are expensive hobbies. We all spent around $450.00 for a .22 LOL and are still spending IE stocks, scopes, grips, barrel threading the list goes on. Do what you can afford and what makes that gun the most enjoyable for you to use.

 

[Roadster Guy]

I Agree

For me having to pull the trigger 2000 times and not like the way it feels was way worth the 2000 rounds to enjoy the next xxxxxxxxthousand rounds. Guns are expensive hobbies. We all spent around $450.00 for a .22 LOL and are still spending IE stocks, scopes, grips, barrel threading the list goes on. Do what you can afford and what makes that gun the most enjoyable for you to use.

It's what makes YOU happy. I have a Ruger Charger that has a Kidd two stage trigger that cost more than the Charger. It makes me smile every time I pull the trigger. I polished the sear and put the JP spring set in my 15-22, now it makes me happy also. Kind of like putting a Cadillac engine in a 32 roadster, whatever makes you grin!

 

[TurboniumOxide]

I put the NM RRA two stage in mine, I think it will stay. At $120 it wasn't too bad. (my stock is more expensive)

 

[JCKoLnturn]

I apologize in advance if this is a stupid question. If you swith to the RRA stage 2 trigger is the RRA hammer heavy enough for our 22's or do you use the stock hammer?