Trigger

[Doc Holliday 1950]

Excellent advice. I bought the HKS 7 shot loader. Can't get over how well balanced the 3" 686 + is. Since everyone agrees that the trigger pull gets better after use, then I'll be a very happy camper. I'm very pleased that it takes full bore 357 mag ammo as easily as 38 sp+P ammo. I think I got the best of both worlds.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Thanks for the tip! I've got Acetal as well.

Haven't checked Google yet but can you point me in the right direction for the bolt circle and other dimensions I need to make one?

The bolt circle of L frame 6 and 7 shot is 1.000". Use 1/2" thick material. Drill 5/16 diam. x .460 (to drill point) deep, 25/64 = .390 diam. x .320 deep. The smaller diam. in the bottom keeps round or pointed bullets centered, the ledge keeps wadcutters high enough to get a speedloader on them. You may need a clearance hole in the center for the nub on the bottom of the speedloader.

 

[D Brown]

Preferences in double action pull can vary quite
a bit. I shoot DA revolvers almost exclusively
DA and I'm used to the factory Smith or Ruger
12-pound actions. They are smooth but some
may think them too heavy.

The 12-pound trigger (give or take a pound either
way) permits me the control I've learned to like.
Similarly, the snappy and some might say heavy
trigger return spring doesn't allow me to short
stroke or shoot faster than my ability.

Had the opportunity to dry fire a Nighthawk Kortth
on two occasions. I didn't like the trigger. It seemed
that as soon as I began pressure on the trigger it snapped
back and the gun would have fired. No doubt a training
experience was needed but I really didn't like it.
The "suddenness" of the trigger didn't allow me the
control I am used to.

One thing about DA shooting, fast or moderately slow,
once the trigger pull begins it should continue to firing.
No stops, no hesitations or slowing down.

^^^^^^^^^^^
I wish everyone understood this concept!

 

[TravisPNW]

Quite a few YouTubes showing how to use a speed loader.
Most important is to just let go of the loader after
releasing the cartridges. Using this technique you have
to be willing to let the loader fall to the ground/floor.

Because I don't want the loaders rolling around on the
ground/floor and forcing me to bend to retrieve them
later, I tend to hold onto the loader which can result in
hangups with insertion of the cartridges. (Before
old age I usually let the loaders fall away.)

Good to hear. It's funny you mention that because I was a bit confused at first as the "most efficient" way to use the speedloader... and what you mention is what I found in a video.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86zZSKd06u0[/ame]

I'm assuming this is correct... mine arrived yesterday and now I just have to practice.

Thanks!

The bolt circle of L frame 6 and 7 shot is 1.000". Use 1/2" thick material. Drill 5/16 diam. x .460 (to drill point) deep, 25/64 = .390 diam. x .320 deep. The smaller diam. in the bottom keeps round or pointed bullets centered, the ledge keeps wadcutters high enough to get a speedloader on them. You may need a clearance hole in the center for the nub on the bottom of the speedloader.

Thanks for the info!!

 

[TravisPNW]

Excellent advice. I bought the HKS 7 shot loader. Can't get over how well balanced the 3" 686 + is. Since everyone agrees that the trigger pull gets better after use, then I'll be a very happy camper. I'm very pleased that it takes full bore 357 mag ammo as easily as 38 sp+P ammo. I think I got the best of both worlds.

You did!!! I did too! Love this gun!

Cheers!

 

[UncleEd]

OK, now that those who are interested
in seeing the technique with the HKS
(Safariland virtually the same), then
beware!

If you're shooting multiple loads, like
four or six speedloader/speedloads in a
row, that cylinder and frame are going to
be HOT.

The upside of this is that fellow shooters
nearby will get a good laugh as you dance
around muttering, "hottie, hotsie, hotsie."
(Note, "hotsie" is not a technical term and
you may use any kind of expletives you like.)

 

[Protocall_Design]

The speedloader demo was correct. As soon as the shells are in the chamber, let go of the SL (any kind) and let it fall between your hands as shown in the video. Any further handling of the SL after this is wasting time. Also, don't put forward pressure on the SL when trying to get the rounds to start in the holes. Just twist the SL to get everything lined up and let the weight of the rounds take them into the chamber. If you're pushing, they won't all line up. This is especially important with wadcutters, Keith type, hollow point, or anything with a flat end. Round or pointed styles almost get sucked in.

Some powders burn hotter than others. For example, with AutoComp on the Open gun with comp, I was getting my fingers fried by the cylinder when doing reloads. I switched to Power Pistol and got the same ballistics without the burnt hands. If you shoot enough rounds in quick succession, anything will get too hot, but in normal match conditions, a cooler powder will save your pinkies.

 

[argon18smith]

I put a spring kit in my 686 with poor results. I ordered a new strain screw and an extra long firing pin. The new strain screw is longer than the original so the trigger pull was increased by some measure. I do not have a gauge. With this set-up, the trigger was nice and it fired all types of primers with no problem. I fired over 50 rounds as fast as I could and my hand never got tired. I haven't figured out what to do with the extra long firing pin but now I have options and the winter to think about it. Nothing like shooting 6 rounds of magnum at high speed (well my high speed).

 

[scooter123]

One thing about DA shooting, fast or moderately slow,
once the trigger pull begins it should continue to firing.
No stops, no hesitations or slowing down.

This is something that should be drummed into every revolver shooters head, use a complete trigger stroke and NEVER EVER "stage" the trigger.

As to why, it's is very simple. If you ever have to use your revolver for defense you will use it just the way you train with it. Guess what happens when you pause to "stage" your trigger in a real Combat situation? You can take between 2 or 3 shots into your body.

 

[UncleEd]

While "staging" may very well get you shot to pieces as
Scooter 123 says, I was thinking more that a steady
pull whether fast or moderately fast allows for better
shot placement--on paper or a hostile target.

Those that stage often tend to end up having their front
sight wander just about the time they release the
hammer or they jerk the trigger the last hair's width
to get over with the shot.

But I think it's best that each revolver shooter develop
their own technique in getting the bullet to the target
though a little coaching certainly should not be shunned.