delta-419
Member
Does the triggerguard screw on 5 screw revolvers retain the spring for the cylinderstop? I have a very weak cylinderstop and want to improve it on an old 44HE 2nd model.
Triggerguard Screw
- Thread starter delta-419
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dfariswheel
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Yes it does.
Under the screw is a spring and a plunger.
Under the screw is a spring and a plunger.
Simmer down
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The spring plunger end can be cleaned up with flitz and the hole polished up as much as possible. This will help it seat better if there's any old debris limiting its movement.
I have an old Spanish SW copy that I've been slowly making a new cylinder stop replacement. Over the years it looks like the drag against the cylinder has narrowed the stop that fits into the slot. My old one was .085" and the new one is .107. That took out most of the wiggle but its a workout to create.
I have an old Spanish SW copy that I've been slowly making a new cylinder stop replacement. Over the years it looks like the drag against the cylinder has narrowed the stop that fits into the slot. My old one was .085" and the new one is .107. That took out most of the wiggle but its a workout to create.
tennexplorer
US Veteran
Go to Wolf Gunsprings.
Springs for SMITH & WESSON Revolvers
Order the S&W XP (Extrapower) stop spring. It will replace you stop spring perfectly and will help your cylinder lock-up. I have replaced most of my 5 screws stop spring with this spring. Unless something has changed in the last year, they fit and work great.
Good luck!
Springs for SMITH & WESSON Revolvers
Order the S&W XP (Extrapower) stop spring. It will replace you stop spring perfectly and will help your cylinder lock-up. I have replaced most of my 5 screws stop spring with this spring. Unless something has changed in the last year, they fit and work great.
Good luck!
Cylinder Stop
The cylinder stop in some way is binding the trigger and is not moving back on its stud to release the trigger. Sometimes the stop does not snap back in the upright position in the frame slot. Is this a spring issue or several issues. I have done the stop tests as recommended by Kohnhausen's shop manual. It fits each slot in the cylinder and the frame slot but sticks in the frame somewhere. There is a small ridge on the left side of the stop, should that be stoned? I have stoned both sides of the stop but not the ridge line. Will a stronger spring be the answer. This is a new cylinder stop.
The cylinder stop in some way is binding the trigger and is not moving back on its stud to release the trigger. Sometimes the stop does not snap back in the upright position in the frame slot. Is this a spring issue or several issues. I have done the stop tests as recommended by Kohnhausen's shop manual. It fits each slot in the cylinder and the frame slot but sticks in the frame somewhere. There is a small ridge on the left side of the stop, should that be stoned? I have stoned both sides of the stop but not the ridge line. Will a stronger spring be the answer. This is a new cylinder stop.
chief38
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Not to say that a spring never wears out, but I have yet to see that particular one wear out, even on very old guns (ymmv). More than likely there is a piece of crud in there or it might be sticking on the walls. Also check to make sure the spring was not cut by Bubba which should never be done! Before ordering a new spring why not take it out, clean all the parts up, inspect it and give it another try. Check to make sure the stop itself is moving freely. Personally I would disassemble the entire revolver and properly clean and lube it as is my normal practice when getting a new gun.
Chief38
Chief38
Last edited:
Cylinder stop spring
I went back and disassembled the lockwork for the 5th or 6th time, cleaned everything including the spring/plunger channel. Took out the new cylinder stop and put the factory one back in. It now works like a charm!!! Got it reassembled and now have issues with the hand. Seems to sit too far back in the frame slot??? I think the whole timing issue centers around the pads on the ratchet and the hand engagement. My next issue is to install a new rachet on the back of the cylinder/ejector star. I also have a really nice barrel to replace the "smooth bore" one that is worn out. It should improve the barrel/cylinder gap issue as well, although it will have to be turned. I will proceed slowly as it is a labor of love. Thanks for all your help.
I went back and disassembled the lockwork for the 5th or 6th time, cleaned everything including the spring/plunger channel. Took out the new cylinder stop and put the factory one back in. It now works like a charm!!! Got it reassembled and now have issues with the hand. Seems to sit too far back in the frame slot??? I think the whole timing issue centers around the pads on the ratchet and the hand engagement. My next issue is to install a new rachet on the back of the cylinder/ejector star. I also have a really nice barrel to replace the "smooth bore" one that is worn out. It should improve the barrel/cylinder gap issue as well, although it will have to be turned. I will proceed slowly as it is a labor of love. Thanks for all your help.
Do you have a new cylinder stop made for the 5 & 4 screw guns, or a new stop made for the 3 screw guns? The new cylinder stops have a hole for the spring to fit into. The ones on the 5 screw ones are solid, this might cause a problem. I have never tried putting a new stop in an old gun. Some here several years ago filled the hole on a new stop and it worked out ok.
hotrod150
Member
Speaking of cylinder stops, I have stripped the innards out of my 3-screw j-frames for cleaning and general inspection, all except for the cylinder stop. The reason being that it looks like it might be a real bitch to get that itty bitty spring and the cylinder stop itself back into their proper place. Is there any tricks to removing & installing these parts? The video's I've watched don't include R&R of the cyl stop, since it's not really required in order to clean the gun, do a trigger job, or remove the lock.
tennexplorer
US Veteran
It is. A small jeweler's screwdriver helps to catch the end of the spring.
Cylinder Stop Remedy
Nightowl, I tried the remedy with a new oversize cylinder stop with the hole where the springloaded plunger goes on the old model HEs. I filled the hole with soder and filed it to the contour of the stop and it works great. Thanks for the idea. I could not find an oversize stop without the hole for the old guns. Do you know if an N frame cylinder from a model 27 or 28 will fit a 44HE, given it will have to be reemed out to 44spl. I just found one in my junk pile of old "STUFF".
Nightowl, I tried the remedy with a new oversize cylinder stop with the hole where the springloaded plunger goes on the old model HEs. I filled the hole with soder and filed it to the contour of the stop and it works great. Thanks for the idea. I could not find an oversize stop without the hole for the old guns. Do you know if an N frame cylinder from a model 27 or 28 will fit a 44HE, given it will have to be reemed out to 44spl. I just found one in my junk pile of old "STUFF".
