I don't bother with aftermarket parts anymore. They're just a waste of money. Stock parts can be suitably modified to achieve any weight trigger pull. I cut a coil or so off the rebound spring and bend the mainspring slightly, but I find that bending the mainspring really isn't necessary. I do "hard primer actions jobs" on all my revolvers. My so-called competition guns are all service grade revolvers and I don't bother with that "Federal primer only" foolishness. There's nothing I despise more than a revolver that won't fire Winchester or CCI primers.
A hammer spur is easily cut off with a hacksaw or Dremel but then the finished product will need to be carefully finished with a file or belt sander if you want a professional look. Blasting with beads or aluminum oxide will not remove the small lumps and bumps. Still, it's a relatively easy project if you want to do it yourself.
I always prefer the .265" grooved trigger and have no use for smooth triggers. Since grooved triggers are getting harder to find these days, I find I can get along quite well by taking the common .312" smooth trigger and cutting two grooves into it with the reinforced cutoff wheel of the Dremel. The sharp edges are removed with one of the mildly abrasive bits and then the whole thing is zapped with a mildly abrasive buffing compound. If done carefully, it will look like it came from the factory that way. I find this is a wonderful compromise between the worthless, impossible to control smooth trigger and sometimes painful narrow factory serrations.
Again, this is all do-it-yourself and there is no need to pay a gunsmith to do any of this. It saves me the trouble of having to pay for special parts and fitting.
Dave Sinko
