Triggers and sears the same for all M&P

[sdarc]

Ok I have a M&P9 first Gen with Apex set up. Love the trigger. Have since purchased a M&P9 Shield first Gen. I would like to clean up the trigger using Burwell's tutorial.

http://www.burwellguns.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf

Are the trigger assemblies the same between full size and Shields? Or at least close enough?

Tried searching but didn't have much luck. Search skills are lacking.

Thanks

 

[SpartyME]

Triggers and sears the same for all M&P

The Shield uses the same size sear as the M&P 45 and it's not interchangeable with the 1-dot sear. Their website explains it all. Design-wise, they are similar; dimensionally, they are different.

Triggers are also not interchangeable

 

[Raisin]

The parts are not interchangeable but they are enough alike that you can do the work just like it is shown.

 

[CB3]

You can follow the Burrwell instructions for a Shield. The parts are so similar, even though differently sized, that it corresponds directly.

A few notes:

Looking from the rear of the gun, the rear (and front) site is removed from left to right. The photo is correct; the written description is not.

The focus of the Burwell trigger job is to:

Reduce over travel
Reduce trigger reset distance
Reduce trigger pull weight

While these are desirable, they do involve permanently altering some parts by cutting or reshaping. This is not beginner stuff.

My first Shield trigger job was aimed at smoothing a very gritty and even unpredictable pull. I polished all engagement surfaces without removing metal. I got a lower pull weight and a smoother, more predictable pull. It was simple and fast.

Next, I really attacked the striker block—mistakenly referred to in the Burwell text as a firing pin block. In extensive polishing of the lower engagement surface I did round the edge that contacts the trigger bar somewhat more, and this is beneficial.

However, my trigger pull was still gritty after all this polishing. The only area I had not touched was the striker block channel in the slide. This turns out to be, at least in my experience, the greatest contributor to the gritty pull in the M&P line.

The tool that drills this channel, even though sharp, can leave burrs at the intersection of the block channel with the striker channel. As well, the striker block channel may have imperfections from the tool.

With the slide completely disassembled, run a small dowel up and down inside the striker block channel to feel the rough edges and intersections. Use 1000 grit wet/dry paper, wetted, wrapped around the small dowel to polish both the striker and block channels, including the intersection, until the bare dowel test indicates they are smooth. Then polish the outside circumference of the striker block. Reassemble with a light coat of grease on the striker block.

This is not too challenging and will make a very big difference in smoothing the trigger pull and in reducing the perceived weight of the trigger.

 

[sdarc]

Thanks all for the replies. CB3 what you did is what I'm looking to do. Not really concerned with removing material. Just want the pull smoother.
I got the Gen. 1 Shield cheap so this is my tinker gun. To learn minor tweaking.

 

[CBStuard]

Yep, smooth is key. Couple of yrs ago I was doing the Burwell and an Apex duty/carry kit on mine. Got a really nice trigger I have been quite happy w/ for a carry gun. Later I got a trigger pull gauge. I was surprised that my trigger pull is 6.5# but I am still very satisfied.

 

[scattershot]

I have found that the trigger pull can be improved a great deal by just polishing the firing pin safety plunger and cleaning out the channel that it rides in. I have also cut 1/8" from the plunger spring, but that's up to you. This does nothing for overtravel, of course, but it's a great improvement.