Troubleshooting Help Wanted

First I would suggest that you get that front site corrected, it should not move around at all. Actually I find it very odd that you have any movement in your front sight, in my experience the pinned sights have no wiggle at all. What can have some wiggle is the DX system interchangeable front sights and I don't think that sight system was ever offered on the model 14.

Second, check your B/C gap, cylinder End Shake, the frame under the barrel in the yoke cutout for a crack, and finally check to make sure the barrel is tight. Because even with some wiggle due to a DX sight system you should be grouping under 3 inches at 25 yards off a rest. Note, when resting a revolver you NEVER EVER rest the barrel, because that will throw any accuracy in the trash. Barrels vibrate when the bullet is transiting the barrel and anything that interferes with that vibration will just trash accuracy.

Finally, NOT a fan of any of your powder choices. The 38 special is a very long case originally designed for compressed Black Powder loads. The powders you have chosen are all Shotgun Powders that were designed to be used in a compacted charge. End result of that powder rattling around in the 38 special is variation in velocity and poor accuracy. What I suggest is a powder that I have tested for Position Sensitivity in a 38 special and found to have NO Position Sensitivity. While you won't like the price at 38 dollars a pound or so you WILL like the results. That powder I suggest is Vihtavouri 3N37, a powder that was originally designed for 22 Long Rifle but which also works very well in 38 special. Note, it also works very well in 9mm loads featuring 124 or 147 grain bullets. Another plus for 3N37 is that it meters superbly, so no need to hand weigh each charge thrown as is necessary for Longshot.

PS, I am also a Shotgun shooter and currently am set up to load for 20 gage, thus my familiarity of your choice of Shotgun Powders. Universal was designed for 410 through 10 gage loading, Clays was designed for Skeet and Trap loads, and Longshot was developed for long range Goose and Turkey loads. In all loadings the powder charge is compacted by the Wad being pressed on top of the powder charge. Use of these powders for handgun loads was sort of secondary and none of these powders was designed in ignition enhancers in order to promote ignition in less than compressed powder charges. Yeah, they do work in handgun loads but they really aren't well suited for charge/volume ratios under about 60-70%. BTW, Unique was also originally designed as a shotgun powder but sometime between 1960 and 198? in was re-designed with a more handgun oriented mixture so Unique is actually quite good in both handgun and shotgun loads, however it meters like dog poop.
 
Guys, no amount of load tinkering is getting a 5"-6" gun down to a 2" gun imo. Something else is wrong. Have another shooter shoot it with good factory ammo as a benchmark for accuracy. If not, there will be a huge amount of time & $$ wasted trying to fix an unknown problem. My exp with 38sp revo, if in good shape, they all shoot better than the shooter out to 25y & 2" would be pretty much normal accuracy.
 
the 1911 is arguably the harder to use, with 6 grains of Universal and 230gr FMJs it's much louder, and kicks harder than my Smith, I can hardly shoot it without blinking,

Try 5gr -5.3gr.. In my load with Unique, 6gr to harsh, 5.2gr and the spent cases just clear the gun and it's powder puff to shoot.
 
I'll see what I can do about the sight, but I swear everything checks out with this gun, the barrel is tight, there are no cracks. I'll give a different target a go that might make using that mile wide front sight a little easier, but I'm going to be pretty busy with work for the next little while, so this project it going to the back burner for a bit. I've used shotgun powders thus far because it's what I've got, I load for 12 gauge too. The gun shop didn't have any true pistol powders on hand when I went, all sold out. As for 38$ a pound being expensive, it isn't by my standards. 14oz bottle of clays is 32$ here, Longshot is in the 40's, and rifle powders like Varget are about 53$. Half of the appeal with clays was the low volume, 2k+ loads with one 14oz bottle in 38spl, and if I cast my own and use free scrap lead, it costs me less to shoot 38 than .22lr.
 
So, I've been doing some thinking, and here are a few things I found, i just don't know how relevant they are. The cylinder has some very light play rotationally, not enough to see, but enough to here, and some forwards and backwards play, again, not enough to see. The barrel leads quickly, first cylinder, of even my lightest loads (2.5gr of clays, 158gr cast). The leading looks worse on the right side than the left, it starts about 1/8" into the bore and continues for about as far. There are also machine marks on the forcing cone, it isn't smooth at all, the entire forcing cone is covered in rings, like it was cut with a lathe .005"/rev. Any thoughts?
 
So, I've been doing some thinking, and here are a few things I found, i just don't know how relevant they are. The cylinder has some very light play rotationally, not enough to see, but enough to here, and some forwards and backwards play, again, not enough to see. The barrel leads quickly, first cylinder, of even my lightest loads (2.5gr of clays, 158gr cast). The leading looks worse on the right side than the left, it starts about 1/8" into the bore and continues for about as far. There are also machine marks on the forcing cone, it isn't smooth at all, the entire forcing cone is covered in rings, like it was cut with a lathe .005"/rev. Any thoughts?

Jerry Keefer (RIP) gave some very good advice on another forum. I can't improve on it:

"If you are looking for improved accuracy, do away with the forcing cone...They are archaic and antiquated..The Taylor Throat is far superior in performance. The standard forcing cone starts to disrupt and upset the projectile before it is even out of the chamber. With the Taylor system, the bullet is completely suppported and centered as it enters the rifling leade. Indicate the barrel on both axis and then make the cuts. After the freebore is made, I pick up the very edge of the existing forcing cone and blend it with a 1.5/2 degree taper into the freebore with a single point tool.. There are many such guns setting records and winning matches regularly."

Take care

Jerry
 
Back
Top