Troy TRX 308 handguard

Mine is also the 12.6 with the Troy LP .750

I mounted my gasblock a razorblades thickness (the thickness of the forend cap) away from the flange

Great, thanks it sounds like I'll be in business when it all arrives.
 
Here we go folks. I got my Troy handguard and can't get the correct timing on my barrel nut. The tooth on the nut is at twelve O'Clock and going back puts me under thirty foot pounds. Someone recommended to tighten and loosen the nut repeatedly until I can get the correct timing. Troy Industries is also going to send a new barrel nut to try. So, what do y'all think about the tighten and loosen idea to achieve the proper timing and the proper torque? Did anyone else run into this problem installing their?

PS: I thought about grinding down the tooth so the gas tube would go in, but then the rail wouldn't line up after the twist to lock it into place.
 
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Still waiting on mine, SHOULD be here today. Don't like the sound of your trouble Deeked, let us know how you fare with it. Maybe the new nut will fix it.
 
Here we go folks. I got my Troy handguard and can't get the correct timing on my barrel nut. The tooth on the nut is at twelve O'Clock and going back puts me under thirty foot pounds. Someone recommended to tighten and loosen the nut repeatedly until I can get the correct timing. Troy Industries is also going to send a new barrel nut to try. So, what do y'all think about the tighten and loosen idea to achieve the proper timing and the proper torque? Did anyone else run into this problem installing their?

PS: I thought about grinding down the tooth so the gas tube would go in, but then the rail wouldn't line up after the twist to lock it into place.

I have read on forums two different ways to deal with this,

1) is to shave material from the bearing surface of the barrel nut, to allow the nut to sear deeper. This would have to be done very slowly and evenly

2) you already mention is to grind down the offending tooth, this would have not have anything to do with the fore-end from lining up, just allow a space for the gas tube.

I got mine to line up using a german torque wrench and set it to "gutentight"
 
I have read on forums two different ways to deal with this,

1) is to shave material from the bearing surface of the barrel nut, to allow the nut to sear deeper. This would have to be done very slowly and evenly

2) you already mention is to grind down the offending tooth, this would have not have anything to do with the fore-end from lining up, just allow a space for the gas tube.

I got mine to line up using a german torque wrench and set it to "gutentight"

Thank you for the response. I ended up just tightening and loosening the nut about 10 times. From gutentight to loose repeatedly. It all worked beautifully. Thanks my man.
 
Great news Deeked. I'll remember that when I find a proper wrench! Which one are you using. Having a hard time locating one. I'm also seeing that at least one will work the Troy nut but not the original to remove it? Is that correct?
Why do things have to be difficult sometimes....
 
Thank you for the response. I ended up just tightening and loosening the nut about 10 times. From gutentight to loose repeatedly. It all worked beautifully. Thanks my man.


:cool:
no problem, Most of the time forums such as this one provide a lot of help, just trying to chime in when I can offer something constructive
 
I installed mine about 2 weeks ago. with no issues.

I had a DPMS wrench
DPMS Armorer AR15 Wrench

and a snap on torque wrench.

i set it to 40 and ended up having to give it a slight little bump to get it to line perfectly gas tube.

One Hint i will tell you that messed me up or i didn't notice till my next cleaning was the little rails optional to mount on the bottom for a bipod. i mounted it prior to putting the complete rail never looking it over just happy the job was complete but the part you screw to inside the rail was rubbing against the gas block.

This will affect the purpose of a free float rail and making some shots inconsistent.

Just inspect this before hand...
 
Thanks guys, I take it that the ar15 wrench fits the 308 size nut then? That makes it much simpler.
 
The one listed i can confirm will BUT i watched a you tube video of a guy working on a mp10 and his would not and he had to drimel out to inside of his.
 
Got it and worked fine. I noticed that the factory barrel nut was not very tight. I guessed it came off with no more than 20 ft/lb of torque. Kind of got my attention. I installed the Troy to 40 ft/lb and got good timing there.
Having a heck of a time removing the gas tube drift pin from the gas block. Bending all my punches! Any tricks to that? I'm going left to right, tried pen. oil, heat and still no movement.
 
I also bent a punch then went to lowes and bought a good one.

I took my upper from the vice had a friend hold the block flat on a wooden table and just knocked it a few GOOD times and it started working its way every hit it went smoother and smoother.

getting the pin back into the troy for me was a challenge and everyone says they never had an issue i used the same pin and even bought a pin still tight as could be. messed up the end a little but its there tight and solid and no one will ever see it so im good.
 
I found my solution, took it to my local smithy. 10 seconds, it was out. I got the original pin back in ok, tight but went in. I was afraid of getting it started and losing it across the room somewhere, but didn't happen.
I also put a drop of blue locktite on the end of the gas tube at the ring area. Didn't care for the loose fit and was concerned about blow by. The smith said it wouldn't hurt anything but not to use much.
I imagine if there is any blow by it will burn out the locktite in short order anyways.
 
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i Like to use a pair of vise grips to get pins in. I line up the pin on the gas block and the vice grips allowed me to slide the pin in with ease.
 
I installed a Troy TRX 13.8 inch LP with a Troy LP gas block.

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That looks very nice. Makes me regret buying the thin barreled model.
 
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