Try a .32-20

[Mike McLellan]

A few months ago, I began a search for a .32-20 "shooter". A Forum member was kind enough to give a sweet deal on a 1905 3rd with service sights c. 1913. While waiting for that one, I stumbled across another one. This one had target sights, with a DOB around 1915. Well, I ended up with both of them. They are great to shoot. .32-20 is becoming my favorite round.
They came with the correct grips, (large brass medallions) which I've put away. I prefer target stocks.

 

[Retired W4]

I know what you are talking about. Last week I bought one of the last of the S&W 32-20's (141403)/5". Looked bad, but internally it was like new. Shoots really good!! I'm a believer.

 

[shouldazagged]

Strictly out of curiosity (I can no longer afford to buy guns in my old age), how does recoil of the .32-20 compare with .38 Special or .357 Magnum in an approximately comparable gun?

I've often wondered.

 

[rayb]

My experience is that there is less felt recoil with the S&W 32-20's,but slightly sharper sound than the 38's. Much more pleasant to shoot than the 357 K frames. About like shooting 38 specials in an N frame Smith revolver.

rayb

 

[DWalt]

I have no S&W .32-20s, but I do have a Colt Official Police (ca. 1932) in that caliber. There were not many of those made, and these are seldom seen. It is a dream to shoot, not much worse than shooting a .22. The main problem is the lack of a good supply of ammunition. It's stocked by few and prices are high when you find it. It can be bought from internet sources, but shipping costs are high. Reloading your own is nearly a necessity. Brass and .313 lead bullets are readily available.

 

[Mike McLellan]

It barks a lot louder than I thought it would. I figured that it wouldn't be much sharper than a .22 magnum, and didn't bother putting ear-muffs on. That was a mistake.

 

[perrazi]

loading your own is the only way on these or any other 32cal.

 

[Muley Gil]

I have no S&W .32-20s, but I do have a Colt Official Police (ca. 1932) in that caliber. There were not many of those made, and these are seldom seen. It is a dream to shoot, not much worse than shooting a .22. The main problem is the lack of a good supply of ammunition. It's stocked by few and prices are high when you find it. It can be bought from internet sources, but shipping costs are high. Reloading your own is nearly a necessity. Brass and .313 lead bullets are readily available.

I have an 5" Official Police in .32-20. I actually shoot it better than I do my 5" M&P, due to the sights.

 

[DWalt]

The OP sights are far superior to the S&W M&P sights of the same period. Plus the ability to stage the trigger in DA fire is outstanding. Mine is unusual in that it is in about 99% condition. I should not be shooting it, but I do. Mine has a 6" barrel.

 

[Green Frog]

I got a good old "brown" example that I can shoot with absolutely no guilt whatsoever. Its only drawback is that its serial number is about 5000 too early for the improved heat treat. I am ashamed to say I haven't really done the load development with it that I should, but hopefully I'll get to do it soon. Anyway, congratulations and have fun with yours, you newcomers to the 32-20 game, I've always felt that every true revolver enthusiast should have one!

Froggie

 

[glenncal1]

You mean like this:



I have a pair of modern finger groove targets on it for shooting. .32-20 and K frame is a match made in SW heaven

 

[TIMETRIPPER]

I got a good old "brown" example that I can shoot with absolutely no guilt whatsoever.

My sentiments exactly!
I have two beat up old M&P 32-20s. My 5 inch with a serial number of around 137xxx, has a sharp bark with factory loaded ammo.
But my recently acquired pre WWI 4 inch is feed mild hand loads and sounds like a 32 long.

I know what you are talking about. Last week I bought one of the last of the S&W 32-20's (141403)/5". Looked bad, but internally it was like new. Shoots really good!! I'm a believer.

I'm curious Retired W4, did your gun come with it's original stocks and if so, do they have the silver medallions?
The reason I ask is that even though S&W reportedly made the 32-20 M&P right up to WWII, my five inch gun has it's original, numbered, non medallion stocks, which date it to the twenties. Apparently S&W didn't make many 32-20 during the thirties and shipped from existing inventory.
John

 

[27 Man]

Regarding the "improved heat treat" mentioned by GreenFrog: what serial number should one be aware of? I have two Smith .32-20s., a brown 6 incher and a nickeled 5 incher?

 

[DWalt]

Heat treating by S&W began in the very early 1920s, but I don't know the corresponding SN for the .32-20 M&P. It's actually not so much of a concern with the .32-20, as the metal thickness surrounding each chamber is substantially greater for the .32-20 than it is for a .38. Plus, all of the .32-20 factory ammunition presently available is only of the low-power variety which is safe to use in any revolver. Many years ago, there was a somewhat higher-powered round made for certain .32-20 rifles, but you are highly unlikely to find any of that ammunition.

 

[Mike McLellan]

Heat treated cylinders for the .32-20 began with #81287 according to "The Book". Both of mine are earlier than that, but factory loads or low-octane home-brew won't hurt them. At least, that's the general concensus among the experts.

 

[27 Man]

Thanks. My older S&W .32-20 has a 83xxx serial number. Guess I am safe.