Trying to hot rod a 6906 have questions.

[StevenJ61]

Hello all and this is my very first post on this forum. As the title indicates I have a 3rd gen 6906. I bought it used from a local gun shop about two months ago for $400 with one factory mag, no box. Gun was in clean shape no issues. I've fired it a few times and I like it though it's a bit hard for me to shoot accurately so I've been working on ways to make it better and have some ideas I wanted to throw around.

1. I replaced the grips with Hogue rubber grips. Tried them, they were ok. I then replaced them with Hogue wood grips. Haven't tried them yet.

2. I'm in progress of removing the magazine disconnect safety. Unfortunately in the process of removing it I cracked the factory rear sight However Brownells happened to have the factory fixed sights instock so I ordered two just in case. I know this is 'controversial' but none of my other guns have this feature. I plan on filling the hole where the spring and plastic plunger for the disconnect was with either a fitted steel or brass rivet that will just slide in there and be held in with the rear sight.

3. I ordered a 17 pound hammer spring from Wolf to reduce trigger pull. I believe stock is 20 pound. I don't think 17 pound will result in failure to fires but we'll see.

4. This is my real reason for posting here because I don't know if anyone has done this before. The gun stock has a bobbed hammer and I've seen a few 5906 non bobbed hammers come up on gun broker. Will the 5906 hammer work okay on the 6906 so I can get a hammer that I can thumb to single action if I wished to?

Here's the gun as it stands now with my carry piece my CZ75 Compact. Yes I have a preference for steel or alloy frame DA/SA semi autos

The 6096 is more comfy to carry since it's an alloy frame saving about half a pound in weight but the CZ75 compact is such a tack driver. Nothing against the Smith here and don't hate on my for being a CZ fan also! I want to try and make the Smith as easy to shoot without a mag disconnect as the CZ75 compact if possible. I would like to fit the 5906 hammer on there but if I can't because they are too different I think a lighter hammer spring will make it easier to shoot well. SA trigger pull is decent but the DA is really heavy but smooth. If I could get it down to the 8 to 9.5 pound mark like on my CZ that would be great! Thanks all again!

 

[85V65Sabre]

Welcome to the forum, you will find lots of help & information here.
I suggest buying a sight pusher before you do any more damage to that fine pistol.
JMT Sight Pusher 1911, M&P,XD, Ruger, Beretta**Revolver PLUGS**ship note added
http://smith-wessonforum.com/access...r-beretta-revolver-plugs-ship-note-added.html
I purchased one it's definitely worth the money .[emoji106]

 

[StevenJ61]

Thanks for the reply. I looked at a sight pusher at Brownells but it was just a fancy punch. It's a bit rich for my tastes but definitely a useful invention. The old sight developed a little rust which is why it was so hard to get out. The replacement should not be anywhere near as hard to do however I will keep that rear sight tool in mind for the future. I only plan on doing this once just to remove the magazine disconnect safety.

 

[armorer951]

Without commenting on your decision to remove the magazine safety plunger....I wouldn't place anything in the void left behind by the plunger and spring.
This would not only add weight to the slide, but could cause serious damage if the added material dropped below the canopy under the slide during firing.

 

[StevenJ61]

I agree it was an idea and it won't work with the way it's setup. I ran some static test and it's not going to work. The rear sight will cover the hole anyhow. I'll just get in there with a q tip to clean it. Best to just leave it void. Oh will the 5906 spur hammer work on a 6906? That's still something I'd like to do.

 

[armorer951]

The hammer profiles are the same except for the spur. You will have to use the stirrup from the existing 6906 hammer, as the one on the 5906 hammer is too long.

If you are careful, you will probably be able to re-use the roll pin.

And remember, whenever you replace/repair any internals or disassemble the gun, always do a complete function/safety check before firing.

 

[StevenJ61]

armorer951 that's exactly what I thought thanks for the answer. I had a feeling the stirrup/ linkage was too long on the 5906. I have a few punches, that shouldn't be hard to get out there carefully as long as it wasn't peened. It isn't the first roll pin I would have to remove and certainly won't be the last. Thanks for your help.

 

[bigggbbruce]

The 6096 is more comfy to carry since it's an alloy frame saving about half a pound in weight but the CZ75 compact is such a tack driver. Nothing against the Smith here and don't hate on my for being a CZ fan also!

Doesn't look as though you have an advantage with the CZ...

Carry on..

 

[StevenJ61]

I can get good shots out of the 6906 but I need to work more where the CZ has less recoil. Again steel vs alloy frame, steel will stay on target better but alloy is better for carrying. Everything in life has its good and its bads but I like the 3rd gen a lot. I still want an all stainless 5906 someday while they are still under $500. I'm just trying to make it the best 6906 I can for me.

 

[armorer951]

In my experience, the 6906 and the other "short barreled" 3rd generation guns are more accurate than the larger frame pistols like the 5906......at least in the 9mm caliber.

 

[StevenJ61]

Well I still like the idea of an all stainless gun. I don't know it's probably just me learning the gun more than anything. I started semi autos with a Beretta 92 FS from shooting revolvers. I like having the double action first shot to single action the second shot. It's not the first time I heard of a midsized derivative of a full sized pistol being more accurate than the full sized but it also depends on the gun. Since owning a CZ75 I've liked having a half cock notch to lower the hammer to. It significantly reduces the trigger pull for the first double action shot. The 92FS also has a half cock notch but not the Smith 3rd gens though I heard the 1st and 2nd gen Smith autos did have a half cock position but it cause reliability issues. I could be wrong on that. Really it could be the hogue rubber grips being too big for me, muzzle flip, the heavy DA trigger etc. That's why I'm throwing ideas to make it more ideal for me. I already started by trying Hogue wood grips and ordered that 17 pound hammer spring. I'm bidding on a blued 5906 hammer on gun broker now. I'll post pics of it at least when I get the new rear sight, wolf spring, and put it back together. Thanks again!

 

[Muss Muggins]

I hate seeing all that happen to a perfectly good 6906 . . .

 

[TercGen]

My first S&W 3rd Gen was a 6904, the blued version of the 6906. I originally had some issues with the DA pull as well, and solved that by using modified factory Delrin grips (w/ curve filed off flat + grip tape) that seemed to give me a better grip on the gun, then lots and lots of dry firing. I also took it down to the bare frame and cleaned out the internals, especially the drawbar channel. This eliminated a lot of the grittiness that mine had.

 

[timn8er]

Welcome to the Forum from Texas! My first 3rdGen was also a 6906. I still have it & still enjoy it. I can't speak to your mods but if it makes the pistol work better for you go for it.

 

[ispcapt]

You'd be better off spending your money on ammo and range time than add ons.
When people can't hit or get the groups they think they should be able to shoot they blame the gun first. Rarely is it the gun.

 

[StevenJ61]

I've spent three or four range sessions with it. Like cars or anything else, some people don't see the point in adding changing and others love to change everything because they can. I'm the later as most of my guns have been modified in some shape or form. Thanks again all.

 

[ispcapt]

I've spent three or four range sessions with it. Like cars or anything else, some people don't see the point in adding changing and others love to change everything because they can. I'm the later as most of my guns have been modified in some shape or form. Thanks again all.

3 or 4 range session with it? Oh well then, never mind. You're an expert shooter with it. It must be the gun that needs modified. Just don't expect the add ons and changes to magicly reduce the group size.
I was issued a 6904 in the early 1990s and have carried one for a lot of years. Everyone I've seen will easily do less than 4" at 25 yds out of the box. As another has said they'll usually shot better groups than the full size guns.

 

[TercGen]

I've spent three or four range sessions with it. Like cars or anything else, some people don't see the point in adding changing and others love to change everything because they can. I'm the later as most of my guns have been modified in some shape or form. Thanks again all.

It's your gun, I say have fun modding it to the way you'd like!

I forgot to mention earlier, I also put a Wolff reduced power hammer spring in my 6904 for a while (don't remember the #), and had no issues with it while it was in. Then I researched the subject a bit and read that the heavy factory spring ensures good primer strikes, even in the event of a blocked firing pin channel, and decided to switch that back to factory 20#. I didn't feel the small advantage in trigger pull was worth the risk, personally.

 

[flagman1776]

Removing the Mag disconnect has been discussed at length previously by those who have carried M39s & it's derivatives for serious purposes. I will candidly state that I removed mine & later replaced it. It's your gun but I will not own one with the mag safe removed... and I was ready to buy one until I discovered the issue.
S&W's mag safe does not affect trigger pull (unlike other designs). The likelihood of needing to fire the chambered round in the middle of a tactical reload is extreemly unlikely (in my opinion) & it's better to do a good solid reload & have a full mag at your disposal.
On the other side, no one is so tough that they can not be overpowered, knocked unconscious or ambushed and a few lives have been saved because the bad guys could not fire the officer's pistol.

 

[StevenJ61]

Didn't want to name names but I wanted to say my intention was not to stir animosity and it appears by some I have and I apologize about that. I am not an expert, I'm an average Joe shooter and wannabe home gunsmith enthusiast. People like hot rodding 1911s all day yet 3rd Gen Smiths are too be untouched and kept stock because they are sacred? What about all the Smith Revolvers with custom grips, tunning etc? What makes the Smith 3rd gen autos any different? I know they are discontinued but there were many thousands, if not millions of them made.

Yes I am aware the mag disconnect has no bearing on trigger pull because the way it works is by putting pressure on the ejector without a mag on it. I wanted it removed to take off the proverbial training wheels as other people have referred to the mag disconnect. It's there for people who don't bother to check if there is a round in a chamber. I always check and in the rare event I have to defend myself with it it's more likely I'll accidentally drop the mag and need to fire the round in the chamber than drop the mag and pray the gun doesn't fire that round in my opinion. Thanks again for all the replies.

If I do ever sell the gun I'm going to set aside the mag disconnect in a plastic bag along with the original springs etc. I don't plan on selling it though but you never know . I'm aware a lighter hammer spring could lead to light primer strikes but as long as you don't go too low should be fine and it's only three pounds lighter than stock. While I had my slide apart I took the opportunity to use a 22 lr sized brush to clear out the firing pin channel.