unburnt 2400 in 357 mag

158gr hardcast, CCI SP, 13.3 gr 2400.
More than likely, the "hardcast" is part of your problem. I've had Oregon Trails Laser Cast keyhole from being too hard and too small.

If you don't cast your own, give Jessie a try at Tennessee Valley Bullets. I use a .359" sizing die on my 358429s and they shoot well in all of my .357/.38 guns.

I also don't get any leading, even at 1750 fps, using a 50% clip-on wheel weight to 50% stick-on wheel weight alloy, which is pretty soft.
 
Something isn't quite right here. Check your throats. While the .357 isn't usually plagued with that problem, it still happens sometimes. If your throats are undersized, you'll get high pressures from otherwise normal safe loads, lousy accuracy, and leading in your barrel. Your throats should be running .357"-.358", with the latter being more desirable for lead.
 
thanks Gun'

I have 4 sticky chambers. Two, and I assume it's always the same 2, chambers are snug. Extraction isn't a problem. I have to drive the casings out of the four chmabers.

I just measured my bullets / throats. My hardcast bullets are .358" as advertised. I had to drive them through the throats. I tried two different chambers. Then, the bullet measured .357".

Perhaps this gun was made for .357" jacketed bullets?
 
I have 4 sticky chambers. Two, and I assume it's always the same 2, chambers are snug. Extraction isn't a problem. I have to drive the casings out of the four chmabers.

I just measured my bullets / throats. My hardcast bullets are .358" as advertised. I had to drive them through the throats. I tried two different chambers. Then, the bullet measured .357".

Perhaps this gun was made for .357" jacketed bullets?


I don't believe that only .001" will make that much difference in pressures. I would recommend slugging the barrel, but it's almost impossible to do it correctly with a Smith, due to the rifling style. It can be done, but requires some special tools to do. However, I seriously doubt that your bore is undersized. Make sure there is absolutely no lube or rust preventitive of any kind in your chambers before firing.

I have had a couple of guns that had rough chambers. I don't mean they looked like they were pitted or anything, but they left tell tale marks on my brass and were always hard to eject cases from. After polishing them, they were much easier to kick the cases out of. If you do it yourself, be careful with what you are doing.


Does your gun display this tendency with any other loads or ammo? If so, I would send it in to the factory to have them check everything. It won't cost you for shipping, so why not?
 
thanks again.

I just bought some .357 Speer 158 gr Jacket flat point. I'll start at min and work up a few to see what happens.

After cleaning my guns, I clean all traces of anything out of the chambers and bore using a little brake clean on a patch.

I'll try some lead away cloth wrapped around a small brush and a drill to give the chambers a light polish.

be safe.
 
If you're having troubles with the same 4 chambers,,you might want to check for possible bulged chambers..I have seen it on N frame 357's.. TIN..
 
I used to have a half dozen pistol powders. Now I have only 2. Unique and 2400. 2400 for 357-44mag. No magnum primers. 15 grs for 158 gr 357 bullets. 22 for my 44 mag 240 gr loads. I dont have any problem with unburned powder with these loads. I crimp as heavily as I can. Just before crushing the case
 
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I used to have a half dozen pistol powders. Now I have only 2. Unique and 2400. 2400 for 357-44mag. No magnum primers. 15 grs for 158 gr 357 bullets. 22 for my 44 mag 240 gr loads. I dont have any problem with unburned powder with these loads. I crimp as heavily as I can. Just before crushing the case

If you're over crimping,I won't ditto that last part but a big ditto to everything else.

I could live quite happily with those two powders.As a matter of fact,the loads you describe are exactly what I used for many years with jacketed bullets.The fact that I have been using a different powder for magnum loads in recent years does not change the fact that those can do it all.

With heavier bullets,a slower powder is superior but with those weights,any loss is fractional at best.
 
+1;)
I would need a slower powder for my bigger handguns, but I could live quite happily with those two for most everything else.
 
Loading 2400

Great insight backed by
a lot of experience..
What a Great Site!
Thanks to all contributors.
Oromil
 
I used 2400 for a short time. I always had more unburnt powder than I thought there should be and a few flakes of it sometimes got under the extractor star and ended my fun early.
 
Joni - My experience with 2400 was identical. I carried a GI toothbrush from an M-16 cleaning kit in the hip pocket of my jeans to deal with unburned powder issues, especially under the star. Every 18 rounds required a quick cleaning session. As good as 2400 is, I chose another path.

The folks here have come up with some creative fixes and I expect they work just fine. Exceptions have a way of popping up, but by and large, I'm not going to revisit 2400. I think the partially burned powder concern is significant in a double action revolver.

FWIW.
 
I'm really surprised to hear that you guys had so much nastiness with 2400. I put nearly a hundred rounds of various 2400 loads through my Model 27 today and never once had any problems, particularly any related to powder (burnt or unburnt) tying up the gun in any way.
 
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