unfired brass

ltrosson

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New to reloading, so here is the first question. Should I size new unfired brass to be on the safe side?
 
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Yes.

New brass needs to be sized. As manufactured, the case is often deformed, dented, and over/under sized.

Other than tumbling, process like fired brass.
 
yes ... brass rains out of the end of the factory presses at a rate that nearly defies reality ... it has to to keep pace with demand. As a result it has some run out that is assumed will be dealt with at the reloading press by the size die
 
In all honesty, I've loaded both ways. Much depends on the cost of the brass. Some is so cheap its not worth the effort to resize, knowing full well you may end up tossing a few cases.

Others are so expensive its only prudent to take every precaution. An example of it is oddball magnum brass, like .30-378. With each empty costing between $2 and $4. With those you not only size each case, but you trim to length. Just to be certain.

Its easier with once fired. You can just adopt the method of of resizing and checking the length with a caliper if you have any questions.

With the new, unfired cases if you have any questions, the easy way is to sit down, open the cylinder, and test fit every last case. Start with 2 identical containers. Like Tupperware, or the generic equivalent. Fill one with the raw cases. Then fill the cylinder and dump each into the empty one. As you move along, you'll get fairly quick about it. Be careful because the indication you're looking for is one that just hangs up before seating. But usually they seat by themselves, no questions.

And that can also be your final QC check. Fill the cylinder then dump it. Its even easier with loaded ammo because its weight helps. If there is one thing I can't stand is a round, any round, that doesn't chamber or seat. If its my reload, I blame my self for poor quality control. It doesn't happen these days because I learned my lesson long ago.

This relates to the OPs question because if he doesn't want to resize, he can skip it if he checks each round as part of the process.
 
I would offer a different opinion. New, quality brass from the major makers does not need to be resized. Often the mouths are out of round. Run them up over the expander plug and back down again. If you insist on resizing new rifle brass, make very sure you do not set the shoulder back.
 
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I have always resized and then chamfered/de-burred new pistol, brass. Most brass manufacturers recommend that new brass be sized. One reason I prefer to shoot factory ammo to get brass in .38 special, .357 Magnum, 45 ACP and 9MM. Too expensive to shoot the factory stuff for 44 Special, 44 Mag and 45 Colt though.
 
I resize them with the decapper pin in place as I have seen 1 or 2 over the years with no flash hole.
 
I would offer a different opinion. New, quality brass from the major makers does not need to be resized. Often the mouths are out of round. Run them up over the expander plug and back down again. If you insist on resizing new rifle brass, make very sure you do not set the shoulder back.

I run all new brass through the full length sizing die, but only to take care of the out of round necks. With rare exception, I find the brass is at SAAMI minimum and sometimes even smaller. I doubt you can set the shoulder back because sometimes I've found you don't even need case lube.
 
Since you're going to have to resize anyway do yourself a favor and just order some once fired brass from Center Fire Brass. I just got 500 rounds of 38spl for $22 bucks +$11 S/H, could have gotten 1000 for $44 bucks with the same $11 S/H but couldn't afford that right now. Anyway, look em' up, you'll be glad you did.
 
I also resize new brass because it's generally banged around pretty well by the time it gets from the manufacturer to your house.
 
I run all new brass through the full length sizing die, but only to take care of the out of round necks. With rare exception, I find the brass is at SAAMI minimum and sometimes even smaller. I doubt you can set the shoulder back because sometimes I've found you don't even need case lube.

It is entirely possible to set the shoulder back on rifle brass, but unlikely as you say, with new cases. Perhaps because they are made with correct headspace. And, if you don't need to use case lube to resize them, what does that tell you? Perhaps that they come to you with correct sizing, so why bother? But go ahead guys, size away. It is good exercise.
 
New to reloading, so here is the first question. Should I size new unfired brass to be on the safe side?

You already have opinions on both side. I'll share what I do and why.

I check the shoulder datum on new rifle brass. What I normally find is the shoulder is already set back at least 0.010" beyond what it should be for proper headspace. I drop them in a Wilson case gage and that allows me to check the sholder datum and the case length. So if you run it through a FL sizing die you will probably never contact the shoulder. If you do you probably haven't adjusted your die properly. I do run the expander through the case mouth since the necks are very soft in the annealed state and should be round before you seat bullets. I also chamfer the inside of the neck to remove the burr. It chamfers better when the neck is perfectly round.

For handgun brass, since I will expand the brass before I seat bullets on my press, I just check the case length and chamfer the inside of the case mouth. I have found new brass 0.020" beyond max, and in that case I trimmed the brass and then chamfered inside and outside.

Hopefully this information will help you decide what is best for you.
 
With new handgun brass(straight wall) I size, trim and deburr before any are loaded for the first time - its worked for me for years
 

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