Unfluted cylinders

I think they look great....

I think they look great on a Colt 1861 Navy, but I'm iffy on whether or not they look good on many modern revolvers. The machined areas for the percussion caps break up the plain lines in the unfluted cylinder. I think if a modern gun has lines similar to these old guns, unfluted looks keen.
 
I prefer the unfluted cylinders from an appearance standpoint. But, that does not keep me from having several fluted cylinder guns. It does add weight, which helps handle recoil with magnum loads.
 
Why would the un-fluted cylinders be good for hunting?


I'm guessing the slight added weight helps with recoil reduction, and because in most hunting situations, fast D/A is not used, so any added wear is not taking place. I don't believe the cylinder itself is any stronger, as the location / depth of the locking notches on the cylinder located over the chamber area are the weak points on most revolvers.

Larry
 
I suspect the unfluted cylinders were originally a cheaper way to make a cylinder and marketed as stronger.

Wouldn't be the first time the bean counters got some help from the guys who write advertising.

To me, they are unlovely.

They don't interest me.

Just my opinion, of course.
 
Depends on the gun but I really like the looks of unfluted on certain models, such as the 627/629PC snubbies or the 500 Bone Collector and even that 60 in an earlier post above looks pretty good.
 
I think it's a fashion statement. If you like the look you can find an excuse. If you don't like the look you have just as many reasons its bad.
 
I do not recall ever seeing a J Frame with an unfluted cylinder. I do not believe any have ever been made.

There was a run of modern (i.e., with the lock) Model 60 .357's that had unfluted cylinders. For a time (maybe three years ago) they were available through Budsgunshop.com and a few other vendors.

--Neill
 
I know they may "be wrong," but I kinda like them now and then.
 
I'm with Gunsnwater above. To each his own.
I have some of both and wouldn't if I didn't like both.
 
I do not recall ever seeing a J Frame with an unfluted cylinder. I do not believe any have ever been made.
I can recall at least 4 different runs of unfluted J-frames. There were two different runs of 38 special, 1 7/8" model 60s (I have a new, unfitted cylinder for these). There was a 2 1/8" 357 Magnum model 60.
a70b98e349958752df6384bc294963f1.jpg


There were 357 Magnum 640s with unfluted cylinders
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/204807-j-frame-unfluted-cylinder.html

There was a 3" 357 magnum model 649. However this was not a factory offering.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/182958-what-worth.html

I know I have not seen every variation of J-frame, so there are probably others that I have not seen or heard of.
 
so...if i have an unfluted cylinder on a 627PC and wish to change it to a fluted cylinder, would it be as easy as ordering the fluted cylinder form PC and simply swapping it in place of the original?? Or is there more to it?
 
Probably because the guns he builds are not for speed!

I guess this factor would only apply to those that shoot for competition.

"SPEED" would certainly apply to the 30 mm Vulcan cannon on the Warthog, or the 20 mm Gatling Phalanx, but I really doubt the human hand would notice a difference.
 
Why would the un-fluted cylinders be good for hunting?

Because the Classic Hunters come with unfluted cylinders, and I like the looks! For these revolvers, I have large holster rigs, so weight is not a problem. If I'm hunting with one, I have no rifle, so I get a weight reduction bonus. I don't shoot them "fast," so am not worried about wear and tear. And, as mentioned, recoil is tamed a touch. When you have a long barrel and full-underlug, it absorbs recoil pretty well.

657Hunter.jpg



For CC, I prefer less weight as they are in concealment holsters, underneath outerwear.
 
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"SPEED" would certainly apply to the 30 mm Vulcan cannon on the Warthog, or the 20 mm Gatling Phalanx, but I really doubt the human hand would notice a difference.

I'm guessing he is referring to Single Action revolvers that Mr. Bowen crafts so well.
 
Many posts talk about the added weight of a non-fluted vs fluted cylinder.
Just how much more does a non-fluted cylinder weigh than a fluted one?
Do we talk about the added weight when shooting a 185 grain bullet vs a 155 grain bullet, plus the additional powder on that heavier bullet?

And are there any actual studies on how much "faster" a fluted cylinder can be fired vs a non-fluted cylinder, or how much more "damage" it causes to the rest of the gun?

Show me the evidence where the non-fluted is worse than the fluted one!!

My 629-2 and two 610's have non-fluted cylinders and I like the way they look.

I say to each his own.
 
Many posts talk about the added weight of a non-fluted vs fluted cylinder.
Just how much more does a non-fluted cylinder weigh than a fluted one?
Do we talk about the added weight when shooting a 185 grain bullet vs a 155 grain bullet, plus the additional powder on that heavier bullet?

And are there any actual studies on how much "faster" a fluted cylinder can be fired vs a non-fluted cylinder, or how much more "damage" it causes to the rest of the gun?

Show me the evidence where the non-fluted is worse than the fluted one!!

My 629-2 and two 610's have non-fluted cylinders and I like the way they look.

I say to each his own.
There is one incident that does show added wear. When the 1st stainless 357 magnum N-frame was introduced in 1989(product code 101024) the stop notches were being peened fairly quickly. Only 278 of the initial engineering release were produced. The bolts were significantly enlarged and the stop notches milled accordingly. This change created the 627-0.

It took the weight of an unfluted N-frame cylinder to show problems. Additionally it needed the mass created by the smaller 357 Magnum chambering. Unfluted cylinders had already appeared in the 44 Magnum a few years earlier.

Today, all N-frames have the larger bolts and stop notches. I have never heard of a problem since.

An unfluted J-frame will probably never exhibit significantly different wear vs. a fluted cylinder over a shooters lifetime.
 
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