novalty
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In regards to the videos, RCBS also has some on their website that are informative as well.
UPDATE in Post 31. Total Reloading Newbie - Looking for help.
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Hillbilly77
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Total Reloading Newbie - Looking for help.
THANK YOU TO EVERYBODY THAT HAS GIVEN ME INPUT/ADVICE SO FAR. I REALLY APPRECIATE IT.
Well, so far......
I stopped at a friend's house today and watched/helped with some aspects of loading.
Based on their setup, I ordered some more tooling today.
I've ordered dies, a case trimmer, shellholders, and a pistol powder rotor.
As far as tooling, what else am I missing?
I think I'll start cleaning my workbench off now. 
I also picked up some bullets & primers at the local hardware store.
Now to locate some powder....
THANK YOU TO EVERYBODY THAT HAS GIVEN ME INPUT/ADVICE SO FAR. I REALLY APPRECIATE IT.
Well, so far......
I stopped at a friend's house today and watched/helped with some aspects of loading.
Based on their setup, I ordered some more tooling today.
I've ordered dies, a case trimmer, shellholders, and a pistol powder rotor.
As far as tooling, what else am I missing?
I think I'll start cleaning my workbench off now.
I also picked up some bullets & primers at the local hardware store.
Now to locate some powder....
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Wayne the Shrink
Member
Let me agree and disagree. First, if you are using Sierra bullets get their loading manual, one of the best. Forget the Lee Factory Crimp die for your .357 if you will be using cast bullets. It will size the bullets down smaller than you want and cause leading. Yes, get the Lee case trimmer set. The Lyman book is excellent if you will be shooting lead, it is the only one that gives loads for lead.
All of this is moot if you can't find primers and powder. Bullseye and Unique are standard for the .38/357 but currently relatively unobtainable. Any pistol powder can be used if you can find data for it. If you do not find data that is published do not try to use it, find another powder. Only used published loads and realize that changing primer or changing bullets can change the pressure your load generates. This is especially true in pistol rounds when another bullet is longer and has to be seated deeper in the case, thus reducing the expansion area under the bullet and increasing pressure.
Better yet, post location if you haven't and find a mentor who can teach you. You have excellent equipment to start with but learning how to use it is another thing completely.
All of this is moot if you can't find primers and powder. Bullseye and Unique are standard for the .38/357 but currently relatively unobtainable. Any pistol powder can be used if you can find data for it. If you do not find data that is published do not try to use it, find another powder. Only used published loads and realize that changing primer or changing bullets can change the pressure your load generates. This is especially true in pistol rounds when another bullet is longer and has to be seated deeper in the case, thus reducing the expansion area under the bullet and increasing pressure.
Better yet, post location if you haven't and find a mentor who can teach you. You have excellent equipment to start with but learning how to use it is another thing completely.
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Huh???
I use both Lyman's a LOT, especially for lead but also their jacketed section. Twoboxer however, is right in that one good manual will do the job. I only had Speer#9 for many years. But I often had to glean info from other manuals. Maybe that's old fashioned now because the internet didn't exist them.
I use both Lyman's a LOT, especially for lead but also their jacketed section. Twoboxer however, is right in that one good manual will do the job. I only had Speer#9 for many years. But I often had to glean info from other manuals. Maybe that's old fashioned now because the internet didn't exist them.
I use my lyman almost exclusively for hand gun rounds because 99% of my loads use cast bullets.I haven't loaded rifle in years but used the data from my Speer manual for those
gregintenn
Member
If you use carbide dies, lubing the pistol/revolver cases isn't necessary.
LUBE the bottleneck rifle cases!!!!!!!!
Failure to do so will result in a case stuck, AND I MEAN STUCK, in your sizing die.
Only lube the body and possibly just a touch on the mouth. Don't lube the shoulder or neck as this will cause dents.
LUBE the bottleneck rifle cases!!!!!!!!
Failure to do so will result in a case stuck, AND I MEAN STUCK, in your sizing die.
Only lube the body and possibly just a touch on the mouth. Don't lube the shoulder or neck as this will cause dents.
I spritz a little oil on every 5th 44 mag and 45 colt case.Makes resizing almost effortless with carbide dies.
gregintenn
Member
It definitely does no harm, but isn't necessary.
joeintexas
US Veteran
I'll second that on the RCBS 505, very accurate and easy to use. I do have the Hornady digital scale but seem to always go back to the 505 for verification if nothing else. Enjoy your new hobby.
Coaltminer
Member
I really like the Lee case trimmers for rifle cartridges. I use them each time I size a case, and I full length size every time, then trim with the Lee trimmer. I used to neck size, but was caught in the field with ammo that the bolt wouldn't close on. Never again. It's factory dimension for me or I'll sit home. I know trimming isn't necessary every time, it's my OCD!
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Hillbilly77
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I sincerely thank everybody for their help and input.
I just got the rest of my tooling delivered today.
I went on a buying spree this past week, collecting (almost) everything I think I'll need to get started.
Now I've got:
•Starter kit as aforementioned.
•Die Sets
•Bullets
•Powder: 1lb each of Win. 296, Titegroup, H414
•Primers
•Digital Caliper
•Ohaus 5-0-5 Scale
•Case Trimmer
•Shellholders
•Primer Pocket Brushes
I don't have a tumbler yet, but I cleaned some brass in a solution and it is drying now.
I hope to be starting the process today. At least some de-priming, trimming, sizing, etc.
A friend of mine is going to try to come over to coach me as needed.
I just got the rest of my tooling delivered today.
I went on a buying spree this past week, collecting (almost) everything I think I'll need to get started.
Now I've got:
•Starter kit as aforementioned.
•Die Sets
•Bullets
•Powder: 1lb each of Win. 296, Titegroup, H414
•Primers
•Digital Caliper
•Ohaus 5-0-5 Scale
•Case Trimmer
•Shellholders
•Primer Pocket Brushes
I don't have a tumbler yet, but I cleaned some brass in a solution and it is drying now.
I hope to be starting the process today.
At least some de-priming, trimming, sizing, etc. A friend of mine is going to try to come over to coach me as needed.
I've used a tumbler for years,but I tried some bar keepers friend awhile ago and it worked just as good.The only downside I see would be drying time in the winter.
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Hillbilly77
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A tumbler is still on the shopping list.
I just have to wait until pay day.
As for drying, I put the brass in the oven on low heat for a while.
Mrs. Hillbilly donated a pan for that. She just doesn't know it yet.
Just don't crack any lead poisoning jokes around her [emoji1]
A tumbler is still on the shopping list.
I just have to wait until pay day.
As for drying, I put the brass in the oven on low heat for a while.
Mrs. Hillbilly donated a pan for that. She just doesn't know it yet.
NO, do not put your brass in the family oven. I don't care how clean you think you got it. Also if the oven is to hot you will wreck your brass. Just no "good practice" Plus Wife may not appreciate it. I do a lot of cooking and I will not put it in my oven. It will dry overnight or use a hair dryer. Buy a cheap toaster oven at the thrift store.
I see primers but can not read what type? As I mentioned you need Mag primers for the 296 but not for the Titegroup.
Titegroup is the Devils Spawn so you be real real careful measuring and weighing it out. You can double charge a 357 or 38 very easy and not even notice it.
Yes, I know lots of folks use it but every Kboom you hear about is Glock in 40 SW and Titegroup. JMHO
It is dense and fast powder and is no good for 357 Mag.
OK for 38 Spl and 45 ACP.
I see 30 cal. 165gr bullets.........
H414 is like 4350 powder and will give nice medium loads as well as factory FPS in the 2700 areas.
My rifle liked the cci 250 primer and 51.0 grs as the starting accuracy load.........
but standard primers might work for you.
Have fun.
H414 is like 4350 powder and will give nice medium loads as well as factory FPS in the 2700 areas.
My rifle liked the cci 250 primer and 51.0 grs as the starting accuracy load.........
but standard primers might work for you.
Have fun.
RIDE-RED 350r
Member
If he doesn't like the h414, I have a pound of 4350 on the shelf I intend to use in my 270. I'm sure I could let him "borrow" some if the 414 doesn't trip his trigger.... 
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Hillbilly77
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The Titegroup will only be for .38 Sp. and maybe 9MM.
I bought it now based on availability.
The brass in the oven:
Not going to make a habit of it - I'm going to buy a tumbler. I just wanted to get some brass ready for now.
I had the oven on very low heat so as not to wreck the brass.
I have Magnum primers for the 296.
I'll get some standard primers for the Titegroup.
No Titegroup in 9mm. It's too fast so is Bullseye.Again I know there is data and people use it but 9mm is a high pressure round and does better with medium burn powders. Just because there is data for a cartridhe does not make it the best or good choice.
You can double charge a 9mm easier than a 38 Spl. Kbooms in a small 9mm can happen real quick. There is not much room in the case, so say you seat a bullet to deep or use a bit to much TG, pressure goes up real quick.
Not trying to burst your bubble it's just the way it is.
Unique, W 231/HP38, Power Pistol all are better for 9mm.
Your original post was just 357 and 30-06 now 9mm See how fast you become hooked!
For 9mm and 40 SW look at the medium burn rate powders.
38 special and 45 (low pressure round)you can use faster
Magnums the slower powders
https://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html
You can double charge a 9mm easier than a 38 Spl. Kbooms in a small 9mm can happen real quick. There is not much room in the case, so say you seat a bullet to deep or use a bit to much TG, pressure goes up real quick.
Not trying to burst your bubble it's just the way it is.
Unique, W 231/HP38, Power Pistol all are better for 9mm.
Your original post was just 357 and 30-06 now 9mm See how fast you become hooked!
For 9mm and 40 SW look at the medium burn rate powders.
38 special and 45 (low pressure round)you can use faster
Magnums the slower powders
https://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html
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Hillbilly77
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No Titegroup in 9mm. It's too fast so is Bullseye.Again I know there is data and people use it but 9mm is a high pressure round and does better with medium burn powders. Just because there is data for a cartridhe does not make it the best or good choice.
You can double charge a 9mm easier than a 38 Spl. Kbooms in a small 9mm can happen real quick. There is not much room in the case, so say you seat a bullet to deep or use a bit to much TG, pressure goes up real quick.
Not trying to burst your bubble it's just the way it is.
Unique, W 231/HP38, Power Pistol all are better for 9mm.
Your original post was just 357 and 30-06 now 9mm See how fast you become hooked!
For 9mm and 40 SW look at the medium burn rate powders.
38 special and 45 (low pressure round)you can use faster
Magnums the slower powders
https://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html
I admit that some of my decision to load 9MM & .38 Sp. is due to Hornady's "Get Loaded" promotion.
"Free bullets" is helping to guide me a little.
There is a limited selection of bullets (light grain weight) to pick from, so I thought I'd grab some 9MM and load them, too.
The 38 caliber bullets are 110 gr., which is lighter than I want for Magnums, but seem perfect for some .38 Sp. plinking rounds.
Again, component availability is having some influence right now.
When experience & availability improve, the sky is the limit.
Thanks again for all of your time. You've been a huge help.
