Update on my polished 642

6ForSure

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Hello all, my hammer stud just broke. I say this because I've said I'd give updates and I want us all to learn.. The fault isn't with S&W but me IMO. I said I'd give ya'll updates about my experiments, didn't see this coming though! My point is though that it doesn't reflect well on me, be very, very careful when working on an aluminum frame. I've done much more on SS and never had a problem. Love me some aluminum though, buying another 642 tomorrow. Live and learn. Hope this helps:)
 
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6forSure what did you do that you think caused the break?
 
I think it was the incorrect removal of the rebound slide/spring. I didn't buy the correct tool to remove it. I've bought many other correct tools though and had no problem. I knew I was pushing the limits of the stud, it's just in my nature to see what really happens.
 
Useful tool for the tinkerer: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/382240/gunsmither-smithmaster-rebound-tool-s-and-w-revolvers

The j-frames are not designed for multiple tear downs, as you know. And certainly not designed to be cycled with the side plate off.

This is also a must have (you may already have it): [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Revolvers-Shop-Manual-Expanded-2014/dp/B00QSFM5VI/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1445393861&sr=1-3&refinements=p_27%3AJerry+Kuhnhausen"]The S&W Revolvers - A Shop Manual - New Expanded 5th Edition - 2014: Jerry Kuhnhausen: 0638056730086: Amazon.com: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Besq6RbhL.@@AMEPARAM@@51Besq6RbhL[/ame]

Live and learn. Being curious, for all its perks, can have some drawbacks.
 
J frames come in may forms, and I made no reference to being "cycled" with the side plate off. A gun can survive many " tear downs", reliable guns are made to be torn down over an over again by a many people.
 
J frames come in may forms, and I made no reference to being "cycled" with the side plate off. A gun can survive many " tear downs", reliable guns are made to be torn down over an over again by a many people.

Let me rephrase - the various studs and pins, some of which are relatively thin and each of which are perpendicularly disposed to their base surfaces, are not forgiving of many mistakes.

I was not implying that you cycled the gun with the side plate off, I was just mentioning some risky practices of which many people are not aware.
 
Let me rephrase - the various studs and pins, some of which are relatively thin and each of which are perpendicularly disposed to their base surfaces, are not forgiving of many mistakes.

I was not implying that you cycled the gun with the side plate off, I was just mentioning some risky practices of which many people are not aware.

Ok, thank you for helping me make my point:)
 
Hello all, my hammer stud just broke. . . .
Bummer! Fortunately, the 642-1 is still being offered by S&W. Here's hoping your next 642-1 holds up better, sir.

Since polishing the outside should have in no way weakened the stud. I am hopeful that S&W will replace the broken revolver under warranty.

Still, that's a lot of work to lose.

Some of the clear paint on the left side of my 642-1 just started flaking off. It will probably just get ignored until it bothers me enough to buy a replacement, if that ever happens. :o

I wish S&W still offered an anodized or plated finish on their aluminum J-frames. I suspect that I am not the only person who would be willing to pay a premium for a more durable finish on these nice, light pocket revolvers.
 
Yeah, it's a bummer alright. I'm not gonna ask S&W to replace it. I didn't mention this before but the reason I opened it back up was because the sear broke. I've had the gun apart several times, so I can't blame S&W for the hammer stud. The sear breaking is not my fault though, maybe I'll ask them for another sear though. It's a shame given how much time I've put into this gun:(
 

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Well, here's the butchers bill.

* Broken hammer stud
* Broken trigger stud
* Broken trigger lever
* Broken sear

All at once? Doesn't matter, I've never had any of these problems with any Smith. All of these parts were broken before I opened it up. I mentioned my removal of the rebound spring before, but upon further inspection I believe this is unrelated. I'm not gonna call Smith about anything else, they were kind enough to send me a sear simply because I asked.
 
Did you ever dry fire it with the side plate off? That's suppose to be really hard on the hammer stud. Something you should never do.
 
No, I've never dry fired it with the side plate off. I know that puts unnecessary stress on the studs. I either have a defective gun, or more likely the damage was caused by me. If the damage was caused by me it was a chain reaction to a specific issue. All these parts didn't just break at one time for no reason IMO.
 
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I think the possibly incorrect replacement sear spring that I put in might have caused the sear to ultimately break, by catching or hanging slightly till the tip gave. That piece was broken off inside the gun before I pulled the trigger (twice), when I did I think I may have caused the internals to bind putting stress on the studs in a way that they weren't designed to handle. That's my theory, and that's why I'm not calling Smith about the issues. I'm not a gunsmith and haven't consulted anyone regarding this, so I could be wrong.
 
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Interesting thread.
Without seeing the stud, it's hard to visualize how it could break. The studs are all steel, aren't they? Just seems to me that unless someone were to grab on it with a pair of pliers and go at it like a dentist pulling a tooth, it ain't going anywhere. I've been under the hood a few times, and I've even accidentally bent a couple of the smaller studs, way back when I was more "fearless" about those things; never broke any, though. What the heck, I'd talk to the factory further...maybe it's something they'd cover. Ya don't know if ya don't ask, right??
 
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