Use of Eezox

[rraisley]

Okay, based on the recommendation of others, I thought I'd try Eezox. I went shooting with my 15-22 and my Ruger LCR (.38 special). I cleaned, first, with M-Pro cleaner, and made sure everything was dry (M-Pro cleaner is not a lube; they have a separate oil for a lube). I then cleaned everything, again, with Eezox, rubbing everything pretty dry. Finally, I rubbed a thin coat of Eezox over most everything (all metal parts, that is), and just left the guns to sit, without reassembling, per the instructions. It's now been 2 days, and the aluminum frame on the pistol is still very glossy, and touching it leaves noticeable fingerprints, plus it's still obviously oily. Not a lot; I only coated it with a few drops; but it's there. I did /not/ puddle it on, just wiped with a cotton swab damped with Eezox.

Same on the slide rails of the 15-22 (very noticeable on it - not so much on the silver bolt), hammer, etc.

Do I keep waiting? Do I wipe it off? I thought the oil was supposed to evaporate (and it really stinks) leaving only the dry lubricant on/in the metal.

 

[Majorlk]

I thought the oil was supposed to evaporate (and it really stinks) leaving only the dry lubricant on/in the metal.

I have no experience with this product, but oil normally does not evaporate; it stays right where you put it. From the sound of it, you put on too much and didn't remove the excess.

 

[rraisley]

I have no experience with this product, but oil normally does not evaporate; it stays right where you put it. From the sound of it, you put on too much and didn't remove the excess.

I put it on per Eezox instructions, or think I did. It IS supposed to evaporate, which is why they suggest letting it sit overnight before reassembly. It is supposed to just leave a slight film of lubricant.

 

[lesgeaux]

I use it on all my firearms and yes it does dry over a long period. This stuff Really puts rust at bay. You should now go ahead and wipe off what you are feeling as excess and not really try to get it dry as a bone. On all my parkerized type guns i would wet the surface real good and let it soak in for a few hours, then i would wipe them down to only have a real thin film and put them away to dry. This has worked fantastic with never a speck of rust and it make the finish look fresh from the factory. On a nice blued gun it may still feel slick and show a finger print, i dont mind this since i see it as protecting the steel, but when i go to shoot i usually wipe down with a dry cloth. I think if you work with it you will be real happy in the long term.

 

[Shooter6br]

Great stuff hard to find.Top rust preventor

 

[rraisley]

Part of my problem is that this is the first time I've used it. I know I WANT to make sure there's enough on there to properly lubricate. Videos mention using just a tiny amount, but that was after the first time. The instructions only mention to not allow "puddling", which I did not.

Anyhow, on my LCR, since I know it had a good coat on for a couple days, I used a tiny bit more Eezox on new cleaning pads, and wiped the gun down, turning to new pads until it was dry. It looks fine now. My problems, though, are:

1) Unless the lube is allowed to stay on a long time (and be visible), I don't know, for sure, that it's lubricated.

2) Wiping everything off that I can, making it look pretty dry, makes me wonder if it's lubricated "enough".

3) Putting a drop or so lube down into inaccessible areas, like the springs and pin on each side of my 15-22's hammer or sear area, means I can't really wipe it off, so it definitely will puddle, or accumulate unevenly. And if, as they say, it will be sticky if not wiped off, then am I really gaining anything?

So, it bothers me that without complete disassembly I can't be sure exactly how much "lube" is in place. That doesn't really matter as much with oil or grease, I don't think.

I know I'm making more of this than required, but after buying $20 worth of Eezox, on top of probably $50 worth of other "miracle lubes", I'm obviously trying to make sure it's done right. And not putting even a drop of oil in places where the manuals specifically say I should (like the barrel, lugs and slide on my Kimber .45) bothers the heck out of me.

 

[Majorlk]

Most firearms are overlubed by inexperienced shooters. For the most part, if you can SEE the lube, it's too much. This is especially true for shooters who clean and relube every time they come home from the range.

In the 15-22, springs need no lubrication; all that does is attract unburned powder and other debris. Pins need one SMALL drop of oil, and then only of the FCG has been completely disassembles and everything degreased with something like GunScrubber. Sear faces and the hammer face should not have more than a very minimal amount of lube on them. If you can see excess lube, it's too much. The bolt rails need, again, a minimal amount of lube, just like the hammer face.

Unlike the AR, the FCG of the 15-22 does not need to be run "wet". An overlubed 15-22 will get gummed up with unburned powder in the lube very quickly.

 

[photoracer]

Most firearms are overlubed by inexperienced shooters. For the most part, if you can SEE the lube, it's too much. This is especially true for shooters who clean and relube every time they come home from the range.

In the 15-22, springs need no lubrication; all that does is attract unburned powder and other debris. Pins need one SMALL drop of oil, and then only of the FCG has been completely disassembles and everything degreased with something like GunScrubber. Sear faces and the hammer face should not have more than a very minimal amount of lube on them. If you can see excess lube, it's too much. The bolt rails need, again, a minimal amount of lube, just like the hammer face.

Unlike the AR, the FCG of the 15-22 does not need to be run "wet". An overlubed 15-22 will get gummed up with unburned powder in the lube very quickly.

A definite truism. I only lube the bolt rails on my 15-22 and put a little of the proper grease on the contact points of my Geissele trigger. I did put some Eezox on the barrel exterior for rust prevention once.

 

[Oldherkpilot]

I thought the oil was supposed to evaporate (and it really stinks) leaving only the dry lubricant on/in the metal.

Eezox is the new Hoppes No. 9! Ah, the smell of the gun room.

 

[JayHutch]

I've used EEZOX for a couple years now. Main distributor is in NE Ohio (Warren Outdoor Products). A true CLP that's great on a revolver or any EDC weapon as it ends up with a semi dry film that is unequalled in corrosion protection. (google EEZOX - you'll find lots of stuff) Benchrest shooters swear by the stuff) Nice not to have any lube in your carry holster, or if you have a pocket rocket it's a must have. Man does it clean up easy after you have the eezox applied properly.

Not so sure I trust a dry lube on my AR's or range semi automatic's shot A LOT. I still EEZOX all my pistol's, but on the semi's I put a little rail grease on there just to be sure. Run the AR's pretty wet, but have ezzox'd the exterior. Same on an 870 tactical. All ezzox with some FP-10 on the bolt is all. Could lay it on the bed or carpet and never worry about it. Good stuff.

By the way, I polished a new S&W 686-6 with Mothers Mag Polish to a semi high gloss (don't ask why). Dang it's a fingerprint magnet. Well I stripped off the Mother's residue, cleaned it well with EEZOX. I make sure eveythings covered, let it sit a bit, and then knock off the shine. Let it dry overnight. Wipe it pretty dry the next day, and then do it again. A pain I know, but you only do it that once and never need to again. Just clean normally with eezox and it continues to bond with the metal, protect and my shiny 686 is no more of a fingerprint magnet than a brushed finish!

I never tried the renaissance wax. Does it go on well over the EEZOX? Eezox is so slippery I wonder?