Used 642, 442, 638 a safe buy?

[lucky strike]

Looking to get a pocket carry revolver for warmer month carry and when i'm too lazy to put on the IWB holster (normal carry is an XD).

I'd like to not pay new gun prices though. I've got two revolvers, both bought used (Single Six and GP100).....can i feel as safe buying these S&W snubbies used as I did with the Rugers? Are they known to hold up with usage? I know S&W has a great service department but just wondering if these alloy revolvers were known for having issues after a moderate amount of use.

 

[lucky strike]

Looking to get a pocket carry revolver for warmer month carry and when i'm too lazy to put on the IWB holster (normal carry is an XD).

I'd like to not pay new gun prices though. I've got two revolvers, both bought used (Single Six and GP100).....can i feel as safe buying these S&W snubbies used as I did with the Rugers? Are they known to hold up with usage? I know S&W has a great service department but just wondering if these alloy revolvers were known for having issues after a moderate amount of use.

 

[powerkicker]

If not abused an airweight frame can last a lifetime, but it will never be as stout as a steel-framed gun. If you check the gun over for timing issues, endshake,cracked frame under the forcing cone and abuse before buying,you can be confident in buying a used airweight. I never buy new and have never had a problem with any gun I ever put my hands on before buying.

 

[st regis]

Ditti what he said. I carried lightweight J frames as back-ups and off duty for years. I never shot one loose. Still carry j frames as a retiree now. You wont be sorry; promise.

 

[bk43]

Welcome to the forum.

To me the lightweights are just as good a buy used as the heavier frames. They tend to get shot less than the heavier guns because of the kick. Some get shot a lot of course, but those seem to be the exception, and even then are just fine mechanically.

I'm an average size guy in a hot climate and love the 642 carried in the front pocket. Even with light weight shorts you can forget it's there.

Bob

 

[Allen-frame]

Lucky , all my J frame Smiths ,and come to think of it all my Smith revolvers have been purchased used.

All the inspection criteria for any used gun purchase apply. Bore condition ,BULGES,, lockup ,timing ,endshake ,etc.

Study up and learn a little about these fine small revolvers and then get back to us with your other Qs'.

regards,Al

 

[jeffrey]

It's funny but until last week the only S&W revolvers I've ever had trouble with I bought new! All the used ones I ever bought are just fine. (Last week the yoke cracked on my 66-5! But S&W is now fitting a new yoke to it under their great lifetime warranty.)

 

[lucky strike]

Thanks for the replies....if I find one locally I'll definitely feel safe buying it after going through the various checklists i've seen posted on handgun forums.

There is a chance though i'll find one on a forum's classified site and if the price is good i wanted to make sure it's relatively safe to buy one just going off someone else's word.

 

[norfdet]

Something not mentioned and something I started doing was removing the side plate of any used revolver that I buy. Not only do I inspect the outside but now I want to see what is going on, on the inside. This also reminds me to check the side plate screws which can be an indicator of the presence of a gun plummer. Other may disagree but in the past 6 years, I had a Colt and a Taurus that had it not been for this practice I would have thought that I received a possible lemon.

Also don't discount the 637, probably a less looked at gun in the airweight line. I bought one a year ago for 130.00 with only 40 rounds fired through it. At the time I wasn't really keen on getting one but for that price it was a steal. I had the hammer spur removed and now it is my most carried j-frame.

 

[lucky strike]

that's a really good idea about the 637....never really thought about that but yeah, i'd imagine it wouldn't be all that hard to remove the spur

 

[Frizzman]

I also had a 637 and had the hammer bobbed and it made an excellent light carry weapon. I have had and have alloy S&W revolvers in all frame sizes except, of course, X-Frame. I have never had any problems with any of them. Just use proper ammo and good maintenance and they should hold up fine. I agree it is good to check out the internals if you know what you are looking for and don't mess around with it. Just make sure you know how to properly remove the side plate. If it is pried off, you can ruin it!!!

 

[powerkicker]

The sideplate is one piece many sellers will almost certainly not want a buyer removing before buying. Buggered screws or a scratched sideplate can happen all too easily. I'd not let anyone take a screwdriver to my guns. I'd bet most dealers feel the same. I'm not saying it's a bad idea, but is is a tough sell I'm sure.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

I Agree!!
No Dealer I've ever dealt with would want to let you, or remove the sideplate himself, It just wouldn't happen IMO..
norfdet was stateing that He Inspects His Revolvers After He Buys Them.. I Do Too!!
I open ever revolver I aquire up to see if it's been messed with + Clean & Lubricate & Sometimes put Lighter Wolff Springs In..
If You Look Closely at the sideplate screws with an eye loupe you'll see if someone doesn't have access to a paralell ground propper screwdriver bit set, Most of the time the Eye Loupe isn't needed if it's butcherd up..
I've bought all three of My current Centennials Used , My 342Ti was used but had only had the Three Rounds fired at the factory when I recieved it, It was Used but New in The Case?
My 642 No Dash appeared to have been shot very little & carried alot, It still looks new but there was alot of lint debris inside it, another good reason to have a Look Under The Hood..
My 940 on the other hand had a "home made" end shake screw & the dealer traded me the 940 for a Ruger SP101 38 + He sweetened the Deal by $150
I had paid $175 for the Ruger, So I have $25 in my 940..

On examination of the revolver I found that the firing pin was broken in two, but still functioned perfectly, If I haden't opened it up I still wouldn't know that the FP was broken.
So I had S&W send me the parts to repair it, On the Older Centennials the Floating firing pin has a Pin all the way through the frame & has a Firing Pin Bushing.
The Newer ones are simple to swap out the Firing Pin Assembly, By just pulling the pin out with the sideplate removed, also a Great place to clean up with a Q-Tip while your in there..
Don't be afraid of Used S&Ws but definately LOOK VERY HARD at them..
Just My $.02 Worth
BTW The $25 M940 isn't For Sale

Gary/Hk

 

[norfdet]

I guess I should have been a little clearer; if the side plate or side plate screws are scratched, etc then usually I will pass on the revolver. Once I have the revolver (to include those shipped via the internet with a 3 day inspection peroid), I remove the side plate and check the internals. IMHO you can tell a lot about a revolver by looking and what's going on inside.

 

[powerkicker]

Originally posted by norfdet:
I guess I should have been a little clearer; if the side plate or side plate screws are scratched, etc then usually I will pass on the revolver. Once I have the revolver (to include those shipped via the internet with a 3 day inspection peroid), I remove the side plate and check the internals. IMHO you can tell a lot about a revolver by looking and what's going on inside.

I'm with you now. In context of the original post, I was envisioning you cracking open a new revolver at the counter somewhere like A&P or the Armoury. I'm sure you can see why that struck me as unlikely