Using FrogLube

Old_Sparky

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I purchased both the paste and liquid of FrogLube to use on my M&P 40 and 9c. As I remember, you only use regular gun lubes on the barrel, slide, and slide contact points. Is this the same for Froglube, or do I also allow some to get on the trigger assembly? Thanks.
 
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I purchased both the paste and liquid of FrogLube to use on my M&P 40 and 9c. As I remember, you only use regular gun lubes on the barrel, slide, and slide contact points. Is this the same for Froglube, or do I also allow some to get on the trigger assembly? Thanks.

There are dozens of great video's on youtube about how to apply this AMAZING product. Check out "CrucibleArms" page. armshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-depzYZC8w
 
I found that the hardest thing to get use to, is that you don't use anything after you put on the Froglube. So far, it has worked for me in my competition guns.
 
I purchased both the paste and liquid of FrogLube to use on my M&P 40 and 9c. As I remember, you only use regular gun lubes on the barrel, slide, and slide contact points. Is this the same for Froglube, or do I also allow some to get on the trigger assembly? Thanks.

This is what I do:

Degrease with rubbing alcohol
Use the paste to season the parts with heat
Use the CLP (liquid) to clean after firing
Use the CLP (liquid) to lube after cleaning and between seasonings with paste. Lube points are the same.

When seasoning a M&P (paste), I will do the slide (no lube/paste of any sort in the FP channel or the striker block/channel), the barrel, and just the guides on the lower. I do not season the trigger mechanism, the FP, or the RSA.
 
There are 8 points outlined in the manual where it should be oiled. It doesn't matter what product you use, those points should have lubrication.

Now that I'm done with the party line, I use Frog Lube with a tooth brush. I scrub wherever I see dirt or carbon built up. I take the slide off and scrub down the rails on the slide. I scrub all over the slide itself to get powder residue off the muzzle end and dirt off the sights. I scrub the breech face to get the carbon residue off.

I generally leave the frame alone. At least I don't hit it with the toothbrush. After a short period I wipe everything down with a rag.

That's what I do. I have 1,849 trouble free rounds and have used Frog Lube from day one.
 
I started with FL on 3 new pistols. After cleaning and scrubbing with alcohol I put some paste in a lid and melted with a hair dryer before applying to hot parts. Let sit an hour then wipe down and re apply to hot parts then after an hour or so wipe again lube the points outlined and shoot them. When dirty just blow out everything with an air compressor, heat and wipe down, clean the extractor hook and breech face with a nylon tooth brush re lube with the liquid and shoot. Over 6,000 rounds with 3 pistols and never a hiccup. I also use the liquid for the chamber and bore cleaning. The one I'm most proud of is the XDs which is now at 1,860 failure free rounds.
 
First let me say that I have never used Frog Lube. But I don't get all the hype about it. Seems like you have to do a lot of extra work to apply the stuff (such as heating up parts, etc.). And for what advantage? My regular cleaning and lubing works just fine and always will.

Am I the only one with this "attitude"?
 
First let me say that I have never used Frog Lube. But I don't get all the hype about it. Seems like you have to do a lot of extra work to apply the stuff (such as heating up parts, etc.). And for what advantage? My regular cleaning and lubing works just fine and always will.

Am I the only one with this "attitude"?
No you're not. I use Hoppe's, & Tetra, which works great, so for me there's no need to try something different. GARY
 
No your not! I picked up some Seal#1 orange in color same minty smell as F/L most feel it's the same stuff.. I'm using the Seal 1 on some things I like some extra slip too.. I think it works and supposed to work it's way into the metal at a molecular level. I enjoy cleaning my guns so it's just hard to get past the old school how to's with them.. Don't know if I will ever clean the hole gun with it.. George
 
I bought into the hype and now am a regular user on all my revolvers and polymer guns. My cleanup is much easier and faster, I have had zero issues with my guns, and my wife likes the way my workroom trash bags smell.

autos
 
First let me say that I have never used Frog Lube. But I don't get all the hype about it. Seems like you have to do a lot of extra work to apply the stuff (such as heating up parts, etc.). And for what advantage? My regular cleaning and lubing works just fine and always will.

Am I the only one with this "attitude"?

I'm the same way. I've used Eezox and Mil-Comm grease for years now and couldn't be more pleased. Having to do the additional work of using a hairdryer or another means of heating up the gun every time (I know you don't necessarily have to) for the best results doesn't appeal to me.
 
First let me say that I have never used Frog Lube. But I don't get all the hype about it. Seems like you have to do a lot of extra work to apply the stuff (such as heating up parts, etc.). And for what advantage? My regular cleaning and lubing works just fine and always will.

Am I the only one with this "attitude"?

hype-
exaggerated publicity; hoopla.


I believe this is the context in which you've used the word hype. There are many products that are "hyped" in this world. I too thought, "Oh boy, another gun cleaning product:rolleyes:"

Then I was out of town at a gun training school and had forgot my regular lube. So, I bought some Frog Lube because it's what they had. The kit I got had the paste and liquid. It didn't come with any directions so, I just used the liquid stuff as a cleaner and lubed the rails of my 1911 with the paste as though it were a grease. The gun ran well.

Later, when I got home, I saw a video about heating the gun first and allowing the paste to "soak" in. I figured that since I had the stuff, why not try it. So, I did. I was quite surprised at the result.

Previously I had to scrub certain parts of the gun to remove the carbon fouling. Once treated properly with Frog Lube all that carbon just wiped right off. This is not hype, it really works like that for me.

One thing with Frog Lube is that it doesn't seem to work as well as a lubricant if you let it sit. As an experiment, I lubed the slide of one gun with the liquid stuff and let it sit for one week and then two weeks. After two weeks, the Frog Lube seemed to turn back into the paste form. After two or three shots it liquified again and was fine. It just makes me wonder, for a self defense gun, I want it to work perfectly from the first shot. So, I just re-apply to my carry gun every week. I don't consider this an issue as I usually shoot my gun every week, but I think it's important to note because most don't shoot that often.
 
If it really does get down into metal on a molecular level I think there will be a trace there always.. My bet is that it's better than regular gun oil or any dino products.. Jjust hard to switch for me.
 
The owners manual sez oil.....

First let me say that I have never used Frog Lube. But I don't get all the hype about it. Seems like you have to do a lot of extra work to apply the stuff (such as heating up parts, etc.). And for what advantage? My regular cleaning and lubing works just fine and always will.

Am I the only one with this "attitude"?

The owners manual of my gun sez to use 4 drops of oil on my 3rd gen and it seems to work fine. If I wanted to try something different I MIGHT use white lithium grease. I don't see any need to get fancy with lubes. When you finish cleaning your gun you put a few drops of oil on it and it''s done.
 
When using FL, instead of bothering with a heat gun or a blow dryer (unless you've already got them), heating the gun up can be easily accomplished by disassembling it into it's component parts and letting them sit in the sunshine for a short while.

I did this a few days ago and the metal heated up to the point of near discomfort to the touch, whereupon I proceeded to brush on the paste. It turned the paste quickly into it's liquified form and brushed on easily.

For additional heat, put the parts in the sun within a glass enclosure. Like a magnifying glass on a grasshopper, it'll heat everything up quicker than you can say "Grandma Pass The Gravy, Please."

Go solar!
 
Lots of folks are skeptical but FL works and is easier to clean your guns after heavy use. After two applications and 300 rounds thru my XDs9 I blew it out with a compressor , lightly lubed the rails and front and back of the barrel and put 425 rounds down range in a little over an hour. The stuff starts sweating out of the metal pores as it heats up and continues to lubricate. The one thing that concerns me about it is a freezing environment if you needed it now. I suppose body heat would keep it warm enough. Thought about sticking mine in the freezer and seeing how it performs but haven't worked up the courage to try. Anybody up for the test? At your own risk of course!
 
Have used FL exclusively on my 9C and Kahr PM9. No other lube has come in contact with either weapon since purchase. Cleaned with alcohol and commenced FL treatment. Weapon becomes "seasoned" after 3rd or 4th application. Then minimal application after that. Wipe weapon down after a healthy range session and the weapon is clean and ready to go. Use liquid form (CLP) when cleaning barrel after every range session (I'm a little OCD--like a clean weapon).
Plus no oil stains in pockets or holsters from oil leaking down and out of the weapon. Smells good too!
 
With FROG LUBE the cleanup is a breeze and it wild to check your weapon after 3 or 4 rounds and see it come back to liquid form. Work great.
 
Lots of great information coming here. I will be doing my 9c this evening. One question that I have, what about guns that sit in storage for long periods of time, such as the long guns that I don't use?
 
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