Using FrogLube

I have had guns from the 40's mostly in storage with nothing more than gun oil on them.. I do wipe them down and go over them inside and out of them every 6 months but no rust at all.. I don't have time to prove the new lubes good or bad.. Guns that I use I'm starting to use the new lubes. Guns that are safe queens I use gun oil and will continue to do so.. It has worked for me all this time..George
 
The thing I like about FL the most is that it does NOT attract dust, dirt, & lint like petroleum based cleaners & lubes. Its also made in the good ol USA!! :)
 
I was skeptical months ago and read all sorts of forum threads. The only reason I haven't bought any FL yet is I don't want my old cleaners to go to waste. I can't stand getting that petroleum mess all over my hands and the fumy smell. I don't like wearing gloves while cleaning, but I do it to keep my hands from absorbing that mess.

Hmmm. I wonder if my Hoppes #9 can be used as a carb cleaner? LOL

It will be nice to clean my pistols with FL someday where ventilation isn't required.
 
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I clean with Hoppes and or Breakfree CLP but always use Mobil One full synthetic oil for my lube, it won't ever let you down.
 
Lots of folks are skeptical but FL works and is easier to clean your guns after heavy use. After two applications and 300 rounds thru my XDs9 I blew it out with a compressor , lightly lubed the rails and front and back of the barrel and put 425 rounds down range in a little over an hour. The stuff starts sweating out of the metal pores as it heats up and continues to lubricate. The one thing that concerns me about it is a freezing environment if you needed it now. I suppose body heat would keep it warm enough. Thought about sticking mine in the freezer and seeing how it performs but haven't worked up the courage to try. Anybody up for the test? At your own risk of course!

I caught a video on YouTube (don't recall what it was called) but, he put the FrogLube in the freeze - it didn't freeze.
 
We've been using FL for almost two years now to keep the lens for our weapon-lights from getting carbon buildup on them... It works great in that application.

I personally haven't used it on my guns, but many of my partners swear by it. I let a partner use my AR upper for a competition and he gave it back to me clean and "lubed" with FL. It sat in my safe for a couple months and I just took it out a couple days ago to re-zero the scope and play with it a bit. It looked dry so I figured it might end up having problems, but I didn't want to mix petroleum products with the FL, so I figured I'd see what happened. After the first couple rounds it looked like it had been freshly oiled. The AR ran great over my small 150rd session of zeroing and training.

I'm impressed and will continue to use FL on the AR and probably also my competition guns. Right now my defensive and duty pistols all use FP10, and have for many years, but after I get more comfortable with FL, I'll probably switch to keep it consistent.
 
I have been trying to help out the OP and other posters on this post
(M&P 22 Barrel Problems?)

I was wondering has anyone used Seal #1 or Froglube on there M&P .22's and has it well seasoned with the stuff? How it does now with leading using none copper washed ammo like Remington Lighting bolt ammo.. I have Seal #1 and do use it in limited applications but as of yet have not seasoned a barrel with the stuff yet. ( some say it's the same as Froglube but orange) same minty smell.. Would this help with the kind of leading the OP and others have experienced? I have not had a leading issue yet with my M&P .22 I clean after it puffs smoke and about 200 rounds of bad ammo.. Thanks George
 
I have been trying to help out the OP and other posters on this post
(M&P 22 Barrel Problems?)

I was wondering has anyone used Seal #1 or Froglube on there M&P .22's and has it well seasoned with the stuff? How it does now with leading using none copper washed ammo like Remington Lighting bolt ammo.. I have Seal #1 and do use it in limited applications but as of yet have not seasoned a barrel with the stuff yet. ( some say it's the same as Froglube but orange) same minty smell.. Would this help with the kind of leading the OP and others have experienced? I have not had a leading issue yet with my M&P .22 I clean after it puffs smoke and about 200 rounds of bad ammo.. Thanks George

I use Froglube on both of my Walther P22's (essentially the same gun) depending on ammo and speed of shooting I still get leading. (I don't actually shoot them but my wife and son do and neither are what I would call fast shooters). I'm just the one that gets to clean the lead out of the barrels.:eek:
 
I have been trying to help out the OP and other posters on this post
(M&P 22 Barrel Problems?)

I was wondering has anyone used Seal #1 or Froglube on there M&P .22's and has it well seasoned with the stuff? How it does now with leading using none copper washed ammo like Remington Lighting bolt ammo.. I have Seal #1 and do use it in limited applications but as of yet have not seasoned a barrel with the stuff yet. ( some say it's the same as Froglube but orange) same minty smell.. Would this help with the kind of leading the OP and others have experienced? I have not had a leading issue yet with my M&P .22 I clean after it puffs smoke and about 200 rounds of bad ammo.. Thanks George

I've been using FL on my M&P 22 since new. I have over 7200 rounds through it without a single problem. I used 200 rounds of CCI mini mag to break it in and have been using Federal bulk since.

I have not had any leading issues or issues of any kind. I usually shoot 200-400 rounds per session and cleanup is a snap with FL paste.

After cleaning with the paste, I put a few drops of liquid on the lube points. After several weeks of sitting, the liquid is still there and the pistol is ready for another range trip.
 
Been using FL for a year on 1911's, only problem I have been having on Kimbers the barrel exterior rust or gets a rust stain(looks like a stain from touching the barrel,sometimes I can see finger prints) and yesterday I noticed where I usually grab the slide, small dots that appear to be rust. I really like using Froglube, but won't put up whit a gun rusting, going back to my Break Free CLP.
 
I have Frog Lube and used it on my firearms. It smells great and works pretty well but in the end... I didn't like the application of heating etc etc. I've switched to using Break Free CLP and like the way you just spray it on and let it sit. Seems to work just fine.
 
I've used real oil on my guns for over 40 years. FP10 works just fine. Hoppes still smells good. Old fashioned I guess but I'm not changing to new fangled stuff now.
 
Froglube

Yeah, after 40 years of good luck with Hoppes and a good quality oil I'm not gonna change now.Sounds like a good product though.Sounds like "Slick 50" for guns.I know that Slick 50 worked well in my truck engines and transmissions by supposedly bonding polymers to the base metal.It stopped lifter tick and smoothed out transmission shifts.So if this Frog lube works in the same manner it would be great.
 
I tried Frog Lube with no adverse effects. Still, I didn't really notice that it performed any magic on an AR BCG - still had to scrape carbon. I've had better luck with Hoppes or MPro7 for cleaning, and Militec or Slip 2000 for lube. I recently decided to try Fire Clean, but haven't reached any conclusions. I treated treated one of two identical ARs with it. The other was lubed with Militec. I shot 150 rounds of Federal Tactical thru both. The end result was that the Militec lubed AR had less carbon buildup on the bolt tail and inside the bolt carrier than the Fire Clean treated gun. I haven't had time to clean the Fire Clean treated gun as of yet. I also treated an M&P 9 with it, and it did seem to wipe pretty clean afterwards. The jury's still out on this stuff, however...
 
Mil-Comm Here Too

I'm the same way. I've used Eezox and Mil-Comm grease for years now and couldn't be more pleased. Having to do the additional work of using a hairdryer or another means of heating up the gun every time (I know you don't necessarily have to) for the best results doesn't appeal to me.
I use Mil-Comm grease and the oil. The cleaning with degreaser and then cleaning with the alcohol is pretty much the first application. Yes, after the alcohol (first application) I used a hair
dryer to warm up the metal per Mil-Comm's recommend. That's supposed to allow the applied grease to penetrate the pores of the metal. I used it on the rails of the slide and on the seven points mentioned in the Shield manual. After allowing it to set for an hour__wiped it clean. Use the Mil-Comm oil on the seven points after that__trusting the grease has done it's job. About a thousand rounds now__good so far.
I use the grease_without any more preparation___about every three months on the rails and wipe it dry.
What works__according to Mil-Comm__on military gatling guns should work fine on a pistol. (Likely more than needed, though)
That said, I feel any high quality gun oil and grease is fine for most folks and their hand guns.
I just enjoy going over board.
Since 30,000 people are killed in auto accidents every year we
should do away with autos?
Sempe Fi
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf."
-- George Orwell
 
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