Value of 19-3?

[happyfast79]

So I have the chance to pick up a 19-3 for around $600 but it has some holster wear and also I'm not sure of the year. Is it worth it? Looks to be in mechanically good condition.

 

[Loyaljeeper]

It's probably worth 600 if that is what you have been searching for.

 

[happyfast79]

I have not been looking for one. Just happens to be available locally and I don't have a 357 mag yet… lol

 

[Loyaljeeper]

It's not the deal of a lifetime, but it's fair.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

I agree. That price is about right.
Shoot more 38 than 357. You will absolutely love it.

 

[NY-1]

That's a good price for a post-COVID/riot, pre-lock Model 19 IMO. When I went looking for a Model 19 in 2019 the only one I could find locally was a 19-5 in great cosmetic shape, with a Pachmayr Gripper on it, and it was priced at $700.

 

[stansdds]

It's not a great price, it's not a horrible price, in today's inflationary dollars, but it's a fair price. I'd try to get the price down just a little bit. If at the used handgun counter at a shop, I'd try a low ball offer of $450 and see where it goes.

 

[gkitch]

Each of the six cylinders should lock in place with an audible click before the hammer makes it all the way back. Drag your thumb lightly on the cylinder as you cock it slowly to check. If all six lock properly the TIMING is good. If not it needs to go to an experienced revolver-smith and that is an additional $150 or so.

The top strap above the forcing cone may show excessive wear or lead build up. I'd be careful about that too.

Bottom line is if the timing checked out I'd give the guy $600. The grips are from the 80s though and the 19-3 in 70s vintage.

 

[happyfast79]

Each of the six cylinders should lock in place with an audible click before the hammer makes it all the way back. Drag your thumb lightly on the cylinder as you cock it slowly to check. If all six lock properly the TIMING is good. If not it needs to go to an experienced revolver-smith and that is an additional $150 or so.

The top strap above the forcing cone may show excessive wear or lead build up. I'd be careful about that too.

Bottom line is if the timing checked out I'd give the guy $600. The grips are from the 80s though and the 19-3 in 70s vintage.

The cylinder has old oil on the shaft so it's a little sticky when rotating it. And most of the time it clicks but sometimes it hangs up until you touch the cylinder, then it clicks.

Doesn't have much wear on the internals, And it locks up tight .

I gave $480 for it. It needs a good cleaning and possibly a refinishing job done on it. Any recommendations? Or just stick with S&W?

 

[damienph]

I think that you did well at $480. Up to you to refinish it or not. Myself, I would shoot it as is and not worry about holster wear.

 

[Hair Trigger]

The cylinder has old oil on the shaft so it's a little sticky when rotating it. And most of the time it clicks but sometimes it hangs up until you touch the cylinder, then it clicks.

Doesn't have much wear on the internals, And it locks up tight .

I gave $480 for it. It needs a good cleaning and possibly a refinishing job done on it. Any recommendations? Or just stick with S&W?

What is the SN, and we can give an approximate date. For $480, I think you got a good deal. You don't need to remove the side plate to clean it, remove the stocks and just squirt some WD40 or some other grease cutter in behind the trigger and down the hammer slot, and wipe out whatever drips, keep going until it runs fairly clear, then a few drops of some good quality gun oil, and work the action. Unless there is substantial rust, I wouldn't refinish it, that kills collectability. Wear is the gun's life story; that one looks like it had time in a holster.

Here's my M19-3, dates to 1974, SN 7K12168. I gave $800 for it back in 2015. The picture doesn't do it justice.

 

[happyfast79]

Turns out it's a 19-4, guy had it listed as a 19-3. Serial is 52k3014

 

[StakeOut]

The cylinder has old oil on the shaft so it's a little sticky when rotating it. And most of the time it clicks but sometimes it hangs up until you touch the cylinder, then it clicks.

Doesn't have much wear on the internals, And it locks up tight .

I gave $480 for it. It needs a good cleaning and possibly a refinishing job done on it. Any recommendations? Or just stick with S&W?

I would not refinish it;I'd just give it a good cleaning
Take the wood stocks off and soak the gun in a 50% ATF and 50% Acetone bath in covered container for 3 or 4 days.This will remove all the old oil,dirt and gunk.
Best is to take the side plate off and remove the internal parts but you can get away with not doing that and lubricate from the bottom after the soak has finished and it is done dripping the bath mix.

 

[happyfast79]

What is the SN, and we can give an approximate date. For $480, I think you got a good deal. You don't need to remove the side plate to clean it, remove the stocks and just squirt some WD40 or some other grease cutter in behind the trigger and down the hammer slot, and wipe out whatever drips, keep going until it runs fairly clear, then a few drops of some good quality gun oil, and work the action. Unless there is substantial rust, I wouldn't refinish it, that kills collectability. Wear is the gun's life story; that one looks like it had time in a holster.

Here's my M19-3, dates to 1974, SN 7K12168. I gave $800 for it back in 2015. The picture doesn't do it justice.

Looks very nice!

 

[yugolovr]

You bought yourself a great gun. K frames are a great guns for just about every purpose. I hope you really enjoy it.

 

[happyfast79]

I agree. That price is about right.
Shoot more 38 than 357. You will absolutely love it.

Why do you say that?

 

[stansdds]

So you got it for $480? Good negotiating!

Since you have no idea of how this revolver was treated by its previous owner(s), give it a thorough cleaning and proper lubrication before shooting it. For the K-frame 357's, other than the currently produced versions, I recommend using mostly 38 Special or 38 Special +P. With 357 Magnum ammo, stay away from the full power 110 and 125 grain loads as these are the most likely to erode the barrel's forcing cone and possibly crack the thinnest portion of the forcing cone, that flat spot along the bottom edge. Reduced power loads using light weight bullets are ok to use as they do not use heavy loads of spherical powder.


As for refinishing, that gets real expensive real fast. The blueing that S&W does is not the same process they used before the year 2000. The current process produces a black finish that is prone to damage if exposed to solvents that contain ammonia or ammoniated compounds. If you want a correct blue for your Model 19-3, you will have to look for a shop that restores firearms. If there is significant pitting, then a polished blue finish is not likely going to look good as it will highlight the pits. If you really want to refinish it and it is pitted, either a matte blue finish or have it hard chromed. Hard chrome is the most corrosion resistant finish you can put on a firearm. It's a bit pricey, but done correctly it is a one-time deal.

 

[Hair Trigger]

Turns out it's a 19-4, guy had it listed as a 19-3. Serial is 52k3014

Probably around 1979, for a mfg date. There is hardly any difference between the dash-3 and dash-4 except for the production timeframe. The gas ring was moved from the cylinder to the yoke at some point in the dash-3 production, (with no series change), but was found to work less well in that spot, and changed back to the cylinder, upon which S&W listed a series change to dash-4. Many of the dash-3's also have the gas ring on the cylinder (mine is one of them), which would make them identical to the dash-4.

I agree with stansdds, limit the use of full magnum loads. If you reload, you can make some that are just slightly hotter than .38 Spl.+P, or you can just load the +P's. Mainly, stay away from lightweight 110 and 125 grain bullets and you'll be okay. If you really want to shoot heavy .357 loads, look around for a N frame (M27, M28), they are better for it, as much as anything because the heavier gun absorbs the recoil shock, which is pretty sharp in the lighter K frame.

 

[happyfast79]

Probably around 1979, for a mfg date. There is hardly any difference between the dash-3 and dash-4 except for the production timeframe. The gas ring was moved from the cylinder to the yoke at some point in the dash-3 production, (with no series change), but was found to work less well in that spot, and changed back to the cylinder, upon which S&W listed a series change to dash-4. Many of the dash-3's also have the gas ring on the cylinder (mine is one of them), which would make them identical to the dash-4.

I agree with stansdds, limit the use of full magnum loads. If you reload, you can make some that are just slightly hotter than .38 Spl.+P, or you can just load the +P's. Mainly, stay away from lightweight 110 and 125 grain bullets and you'll be okay. If you really want to shoot heavy .357 loads, look around for a N frame (M27, M28), they are better for it, as much as anything because the heavier gun absorbs the recoil shock, which is pretty sharp in the lighter K frame.

Thanks for the info, for heavy loads I have a 629 classic and a 329 , so I'll just load up some midrange loads for the model 19

 

[happyfast79]

Also the guy I bought it from got ahold of me and said it came with a holster, so I need to go pick it up and see what it is