Verifying Charge Weight With Powder Drop

[TheTinMan]

I have an RCBS ChargeMaster that I typically use for rifle cartridges - one powder drop at a time. However, I use a Hornady powder drop for pistol reloading.

My method is to zero my RCBS 5-0-5 balance beam scale, then use check weights as close to my intended charge as possible and verify that it also “zeroes” correctly. The powder drop has a baffle in it, and I both tap it for a minute or 2 and then drop at least 20-25 charges to get the powder column settled. Then I dial in the drop for this particular session.

Here’s my question: once I think I have it dialed in to drop something like 6.8 grains, I drop 5 charges into the pan and weigh that. It should be dead on 34 grains but usually is off a bit. I make appropriate adjustments to get the 5-charge weight right, then go back and verify the weight of a single charge (or several single charges). My thinking is that the 5-charge drop is a better measure of the average drop I’m getting. Does anyone else do this and does it make any sense?

I learned about compressing the powder column by checking individual throws throughout a loading session. Weights went up over time if I didn’t take care to settle the powder column before getting rolling. This was especially true when I got a progressive press - the powder measure gets shaken up a LOT sitting on top. The baffle helps. I also try to make sure the powder measure is at least 1/4 full during a session because the drops start to get lighter if there isn’t enough powder pressing down on each charge as it is thrown.

 

[elpac3]

I have an old Pacific powder measure from the 70's that I still use. Method sounds similar, I fill, tap, drop 10 charges, measure weight, fine tune weight, drop ten charges, verify weight then start charging cases.

I weigh charges every ten drops and fine tune a necessary, visually verifying the charge level in each case. When using powders like bullseye, H110, W231, charges seldom vary more than +/- .1 grain.

Other powders like Unique and Red dot require verifying each charge.

Rifle powders get individually weighed.

 

[Paul in Nevada]

I think you are right about the average drop, and for pistol powders I have long since given up and accepted average as good enough. For rifle charges I trickle up to exact weight so that's a different approach. I wouldn't think it would be necessary to pre-pack the powder column in the hopper because the whole purpose of the baffle is to negate this effect. After the vibration of 20-25 throws the powder column should have settled in and the baffle should allow the same density of powder to be available to the drum on every throw. That's theory but obviously in practice we all have our own little voodoo rituals we do with the powder measure. After the initial "warm up" it's all about how consistent your are running the handle.

 

[sophie]

I’ve never loaded for long guns, just pistols only. I use my old RCBS Powder Measure and check my powder after each 10 rounds on my RCBS 5-10 Scale. Like has been said above, once you get to operating the handle it settles and packs the powder and the charge weights stay consistent. Just keep adequate powder in the measure. I’ve never thought about throwing 5 charges and do a total measure. Hmmm.

 

[Skeet 028]

Do the initial averaging with 10 charges. Dump back in do another 10 charge avg... If near enough...go ahead and load. my avg charge even with the flake powders is seldom so variable I have to worry about them. As much as a tenth or two will not make any significant difference in velocities or pressure except possibly in very small cases like 25 32 autos or maybe 32 S&W (L&S)...and generally slower powders(Unique, Herco Blue Dot) are not usually used in them. Ragged edge loading is trickle charge loading for me even with ball powders

 

[glenwolde]

Pretty much what I do.

I keep a little pocket sized spiral notebook. I write down the powder type, lot#, measure setting, and date. Then a vertical column of the total weight as I add each charge to the pan and run a second column with the charge weight for each throw. So ideally, in a perfect world, a 4.0 gr charge would go...

4.0
8.0 4.0
12.0 4.0
16.0 4.0
20.0 4.0
etc....

I do it this way to see both the variation in each charge as well as the overall variation. I like the total weight as it tells you how close you are to the actual target overall without the charge-to-charge variation confusing things. The individual weights are still important as the total could be fine but you could still have some large charge-to-charge variations.

 

[rwsmith]

I have a fast way to check my drops......

I put the case on my digital scale, hit 'tare'. Load the case with the powder measure, then put the case back on the scale. I can either adjust it a little by hand or just toss it back and drop another load.

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

I currently have 8 Dillon powder drops and a Lyman #55 and a Redding BR-30. I find that the method of weighing 10 drops is easiest to get accurate settings. I do this for all handgun and semiauto rifle rounds. For 1000 yard ammo, I weigh each charge on a proven beam scale, and adjust powder grains until I'm actually on the same mark every time. I must be doing something right, I have one bolt gun that shoots 3" at 1000 yards and 6 that shoot 1 inch or less at 500.

For Unique and similar flake powder, Lyman invented the #50 & #55 powder drops, they have a little 'door knocker" to settle the powder. Use ONE knock when the handle is up and ONE knock when the handle is down. I found you can use the same idea on almost any powder drop, Tap with a screwdriver handle ONCE, with the drop handle up and ONCE with the drop handle down. I do this for all powders in tiny cartridges like 32 ACP, 32 Long and short, and some tiny foreign stuff!

Lyman calls the little door knocker, a hammer. The location on the drop makes it easy to use when charging 10 or more in a loading tray. My 32's using WW231 or Unique are more consistent than any factory ammo!

Ivan

 

[Neumann]

Get a digital scale. You can check multiple individual drops by zeroing the scale between measurements. Some powders are more consistent than others, but most settle down within 0.1 grain in 3-5 drops.

Check it after an extended break. Powder tends to settle, so the first drop tends to be heavy. I use a progressive press (Dillon 550), but a cartridge can be removed and dumped for weighing by removing a retaining pin in the turntable, then rechecked until it settles.

The same process works for a stand-alone powder drop, done one at a time. You can also dribble onto the balance pan, and dump it into a cartridge with a funnel.

There's too much variation in brass to weight-check it after loading, except for a possible squib or double load.