very ugly 13-3
- Thread starter GaryinOKC
- Start date
Cerrakote finish it. I did that to a M10 snub, looks great, durable and good cheap pickup gun.
Clean oil and shoot it. One of my simple pleasures in life is when I attend a shooting match with some rough looking orphan gun, and more than hold my own against all the people with the "high speed" gear. Every once in a while I might actually win a match or place for prizes/ awards with one of those rough looking guns, and that is very satis to me
kbm6893
Member
Jeez! Being a 3" .357 I would have bought it, as well. But I can't imagine letting a gun I owned get into that condition. Some people say "it's just a tool". Well, my tools in my toolbox don't look like that either. There's wear, and there's neglect. That gun was neglected. I'm sure some TLC will improve it, though.
Yep! I was taught that if you take care of your tools, your tools will take care of you. I suppose there are a lot of people who were not taught this important lesson
Sistema1927
US Veteran
Rode hard and put up wet.
Being the nosey type that I am, would you mind putting a dollar value to your idea of "cheap"???
Thanks.
notsofast
Member
I like M13's alot and I also like S&W rescues.
That gun is not really pitted that bad.
The Spanish BillBoard marking on the right front side could be elliminated in a polish job with no worrys about having that re-engraved/marked AFAIK.
The rest of the gun can be polished out by hand w/o much trouble. Just time and patience. A very nice job can result.
It'll never be a money maker. That's why 'smiths rarely do the job as a restoration for a profit or take in the jobs at all unless you just want a spiffy buff and shine & hot blue..
DA Revolver polishing is very time consuming when a correct job is done. It doesn't matter who is doing the work outside of the Factory.
Even then it mostlikely won't fall into the Restoration Class of work. But that's not what is usually being sought in instances like this anyway.
Just a good clean, sharp polish.
A good project gun for the gunsmith type.
The Medallion is still deep and can be saved. The other lettering will need some help from an engraver to sharpen up to save it if you want to. Or have one of the Laser Wizards re-mark it.
The cylinder is the easiest to polish on a belt. The locking bolt channels need some very careful polishing out to get at the pitting in the bottom of them. Believe it or not , the Dremel with the correct shaped point is perfect of that. Be careful though!
Final finish,,Hot Blue, Rust Blue, Hard Chrome, Flashy Nickel,,the list is nearly endless.
The Hammer and to a lesser degree the (wide?) trigger look pretty eaten around the sharp corners by the pitting.
For a K frame it's much easier and cheaper to find and buy replacement(s) with decent finish than to strip and refinish (CCHarden) the originals.
Just the CCH will cost around $150 these days from the shops that advertise. Some won't even take in small jobs anymore.
There are some faux color alternatives. But then there is still the pitting to deal with, refinishing/polishing to elliminate it
Grips,,need some nice grips.
The project gun can get you in deep.!
Sometimes the 'Clean, Oil and Shoot' doesn't sound too bad after all.
Neither does 'Place it in the Trade Basket' after you are tired of it.
But some of us just can't stay away from a Project..!
I plead Guilty.
The Spanish BillBoard marking on the right front side could be elliminated in a polish job with no worrys about having that re-engraved/marked AFAIK.
The rest of the gun can be polished out by hand w/o much trouble. Just time and patience. A very nice job can result.
It'll never be a money maker. That's why 'smiths rarely do the job as a restoration for a profit or take in the jobs at all unless you just want a spiffy buff and shine & hot blue..
DA Revolver polishing is very time consuming when a correct job is done. It doesn't matter who is doing the work outside of the Factory.
Even then it mostlikely won't fall into the Restoration Class of work. But that's not what is usually being sought in instances like this anyway.
Just a good clean, sharp polish.
A good project gun for the gunsmith type.
The Medallion is still deep and can be saved. The other lettering will need some help from an engraver to sharpen up to save it if you want to. Or have one of the Laser Wizards re-mark it.
The cylinder is the easiest to polish on a belt. The locking bolt channels need some very careful polishing out to get at the pitting in the bottom of them. Believe it or not , the Dremel with the correct shaped point is perfect of that. Be careful though!
Final finish,,Hot Blue, Rust Blue, Hard Chrome, Flashy Nickel,,the list is nearly endless.
The Hammer and to a lesser degree the (wide?) trigger look pretty eaten around the sharp corners by the pitting.
For a K frame it's much easier and cheaper to find and buy replacement(s) with decent finish than to strip and refinish (CCHarden) the originals.
Just the CCH will cost around $150 these days from the shops that advertise. Some won't even take in small jobs anymore.
There are some faux color alternatives. But then there is still the pitting to deal with, refinishing/polishing to elliminate it
Grips,,need some nice grips.
The project gun can get you in deep.!
Sometimes the 'Clean, Oil and Shoot' doesn't sound too bad after all.
Neither does 'Place it in the Trade Basket' after you are tired of it.
But some of us just can't stay away from a Project..!
I plead Guilty.
Bullseye Smith
Member
Finish
Hey, I would strip it, have it glass beaded. Then hand blue, or have it Blued with no polishing for a matt finish. It will have its girlie curves and look great.
Hey, I would strip it, have it glass beaded. Then hand blue, or have it Blued with no polishing for a matt finish. It will have its girlie curves and look great.
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