Victory Model heavy trigger pull

[smithman 10]

I came upon a Victory .38 Special and bought it with the intention of firing it but have have not done so as yet. I owned one before many moons ago but let it go (one of many I regret.)

This revolver, V427279, has by far the heaviest trigger pull of a ANY Smith revolver I have ever owned. Just for fun, I thought I'd try some of the several strain screws I have lying about but they will not lock down in this gun. Part way in and they stop.

Anyway, I have little use for this gun with a 30lb. trigger pull (I exaggerate) - don't have the tool to measure it. Just curious, is this a common characteristic of these revolvers? I don't recall the one I had years ago being anywhere near this heavy.

By the way, the lanyard ring is gone. Reckon I could replace it if I wanted to. Every thing else seems as it should be, grips number to the gun.

No big deal but I do like to be able to comfortably fire the revolvers I own so tell me what you think if anyone is so inclined.

 

[s&wchad]

Have you cleaned the internals? If you're not comfortable taking it apart, pull the stocks, cock the hammer and spray gunscrubber or a similar spray clean into the action. Blow the excess out with an air hose and give it a very light spray of lube.

How is the single action pull?

 

[smithman 10]

Should have mentioned

Yes I took the sideplate off and gave it a thorough cleaning although it hardly needed it. Very little residue of any kind. Dry inside. Lubed it a little bit.

That's what attracted me to it - just a glance down the barrel and the charge holes in the cylinder told me the revolver had either not been fired very much or else had been cleaned up before sale. Nice and tight, no end shake, times up good. Mechanically nice except for that godawful heavy trigger.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

... this gun with a 30lb. trigger pull (I exaggerate) - don't have the tool to measure it. Just curious, is this a common characteristic of these revolvers? I don't recall the one I had years ago being anywhere near this heavy.

No big deal but I do like to be able to comfortably fire the revolvers I own so tell me what you think if anyone is so inclined.

It just needs to be oiled. A few years back a fella had a S&W revolver that he said had a 30# Double Action trigger. It had not been cleaned in 40+ years. After I gave it a "great" cleaning and proper lubrication it had a very good trigger.

You have a 80 year old revolver. When do you think it was last cleaned properly?

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Yes I took the sideplate off and gave it a thorough cleaning although it hardly needed it. Very little residue of any kind. Dry inside. Lubed it a little bit.

Lubed it a lot!

 

[Retired W4]

Two things you are pulling against, the main (hammer) spring and the trigger rebound spring. If you have not removed, and cleaned the rebound slide and spring give that a try. Brownell's has a tool for that which really comes in handy for removal and installation. Beyond that try swapping a hammer spring from another gun that has an acceptable trigger pull.

If that fails try a different rebound spring or a Wolff 13 lb.

 

[murphydog]

There is also the possibility of badly fitted or misaligned parts. A trip to the gunsmith may be in order if cleaning/lubrication doesn't fix matters.

 

[smithman 10]

Victory Model clean and lubed

Thanks for all the suggestions but I have done what I always do with a Smith and Wesson revolver. Took the sideplate off and inspected it. FYI I have the Kuhnhausen (now dogeared from use) book and am familiar with the workings of the Smith K-Frame revolver.

Yes, I removed the rebound slide - nothing amiss there. The gun is in nice shape with no timing issues, pretty fair cosmetically. Just a nice gun with a very heavy trigger pull. Guess I should get a trigger pull gauge but I bet it would be over the max number.

I may have mentioned that the assortment of strain screws I have (many of which are shorter) simply will not seat in the strain screw hole. Half way in and they stop. So I must use the strain screw it came with which is visibly longer than any other I have ever seen.

It's a shootable piece but not one the average joe would tote for self defense or use for a house gun. Which is what I require for ALL of my handguns, that they be viable self-defense candidates.

My question was this: Have other folks encountered similar heavy pull Victory Models, in other words, is this characteristic of these old revolvers built for the military?

 

[Electraclyde]

No it is not normal. Get an accurate trigger pull so you have an accurate starting point. My Victory model has a 12lb double action pull and (if my memory is correct) a 5lb 8oz single action pull. These were not the highest quality revolvers when built. They are very rough inside.

 

[Igiveup]

Do you think a reduced power spring kit would help. I have used a few and it has really helped to reduce trigger pull.

 

[rct269]

Not a Victory, but same difference---an M&P bought new by my father-in-law in 1920; and carried in the hip pocket of his overalls for a while-----like 60 some odd years. This beast is bad news to look at, but clean---inside and out. It also had a 22 Lb. double action trigger pull!! That turned out to be compliments of a replacement rebound slide spring apparently selected by a Bubba somewhere along the line, based upon the fact it would fit in the hole.

I had decided to try to become proficient at double action rapid fire point and shoot, and was not even remotely inclined to use any of the guns in my collection, so this beater was my choice.

I'd heard of Spring Kits, and had a look-see. Jerry Miculek has one that seemed to be a cut above the norm, in that you can roll your own when it comes to the double action trigger pull---with the proviso you stay above 7 lbs.---least your gun won't go bang (and he recommends using Federal ammo/primers at the 7 lbs. level). I called Brownells, and the kit was on the way.

I'd been in and out of S&W hand ejectors for going on 60+ years, so there was no need to bother with the instructions---and neither the hammer nor the trigger would move when I finished. It was all better the second time around!! (THERE'S A LESSON THERE!!)

The D.A. trigger pull is now 7 lbs----according to the 50 lb. fish scale I use to set the drive belt tension on my big mower---and it might turn out to be a bit more if/when I get a proper trigger pull gauge----seeing as how it pops WW ammo (in the absence of Federal) without a hitch. If that turns out to be the case, the worst that happens is I'll have to get a new strain screw. It is truly a wonder as it sits right now-----smooth as silk!!

The strain screw is really the only thing you're working with----once you've installed the springs IN ACCORD WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS!! At that point, you measure the D.A. trigger pull with everything tightened down---and assuming you want it lighter, you keep on measuring it as you back out the strain screw. Once you're happy, you simply measure the amount the strain screw protrudes from the grip frame, whack that amount off the other end of the screw (.090" in my case), and tighten the screw. Done and Done!!-----and the D.A. pull is still 7 lbs.-----because I removed EXACTLY the indicated .090" from the screw!

Ralph Tremaine

By the by, the rebound slide (spring) special tool mentioned above is the neatest thing since sliced bread!! It's known as "Smithmaster" (gunsmithertools.com)---Brownells figures to have it too. I'd used a S&W screwdriver with a little notch cut in the end for A BUNCH of years---and the "Smithmaster" is better-----A LOT BETTER!!!! Removing/replacing the rebound slide spring is a piece of cake----makes it look like you actually know what you're doing!

By the by again, the PROPER amount of lubrication for a S&W hand ejector is ONE drop of GOOD oil on the hammer stud---same on the trigger stud---same on the bottom and back side of the rebound slide. You can use more if you want to collect dirt. (I use "ULTIMA-LUBE II UNIVERSAL" from Wilson Combat---some heavier than normal gun oil, as it's intended for autoloaders.)