"W" spring question in my 1955...

[sjmjax]

I have a five screw model of 1955 in .45 ACP. S 166xxx - 1956-57?

100% reliable in single action but fails to fire 20% time in DA.

Took the grips off for a look under the hood and a bit surprised by what I've found.

Gun has the "W" main spring. But the frame is also cut for the later leaf spring. Someone has also cut the strain screw down to where in would not make contact with either style.

Couple of questions:

Would the "W" spring likely be original?

Would it be typical for an N-frame of this era be cut for the leaf but shipped with the W?

Does the "W" spring need pressure from the strain screw to function properly like the leaf?
[This is the only "W" sprung gun I have so have nothing else to compare it to]

Best place to buy a new strain screw?


Almost hate to 'fix' it as in the current condition it has a wonderful DA trigger. Too bad that even with Winchester primers and AR brass, it still misfires.

Thanks for your help!

 

[410bore]

i believe the guns that used the W mainspring were still cut for the standard mainspring

 

[diamonback68]

The strain screw was just there to fill a whole in the frame and applies no pressure on the spring. If you go to a leaf spring you may have to also add a new rebound spring and possibly a rebound slide because the W spring acted as both a main spring and a rebound spring. You can see what I mean since you have the gun open.

 

[sjmjax]

Thanks for the responses. Makes more sense now.

A closer look at the strain screw is revealing as well. It's very precise and completely blued. No evidence of some home gunsmithing.

Would like to keep it in the "W" configuration.

Any advice on how to improve DA ignition?

 

[VM]

Thanks for the responses. Makes more sense now.

A closer look at the strain screw is revealing as well. It's very precise and completely blued. No evidence of some home gunsmithing.

Would like to keep it in the "W" configuration.

Any advice on how to improve DA ignition?

There has been a guy on Ebay that had a couple of Factory, NOS "W" springs for sale and didn't sell when I last saw them. The opening bid was just under $50. I'm not sure if a new one would help you or not?? It shouldn't be hard to find him thru their search engine.
Dick's post was on the money

 

[bamabiker]

I have not shot this one a lot but I've not had any problems with it when I did. I just went out and shot 6 primer only cases without moon clips and all 6 fired fine.
Here is a pic of the W spring for those that have not seen one.

 

[bobbyd]

You mentioned Winchester primers but have you tried Federal?
I have a W-spring gun that runs about 99% using Federal primers and Just about any brand of good commercial brass.

 

[Enframe]

These guns were primarily bullseye guns, meant for single-action work. As has been said, the cutoff strain screw was just a filler from the factory, and you can add the rebound parts and a leaf spring and a new strain screw in place of the "W" spring and the gun will function just fine.

I never had any failures to fire on my W spring version, which was a 1954 gun (by the serial #), but ymmv.

 

[Muley Gil]

It is my understanding that the reason the "W" and "U" mainsprings were discontinued was unreliable ignition.

 

[Hondo44]

I have a five screw model of 1955 in .45 ACP. S 166xxx - 1956-57?




Almost hate to 'fix' it as in the current condition it has a wonderful DA trigger. Too bad that even with Winchester primers and AR brass, it still misfires.

Thanks for your help!

If it were mine the 1st thing I'd do:
Remove the spring and spread it so when it's at rest it's wider then when you removed it from the gun. Then re-install and try it. If no improvement, spread it more and test again. If still no improvement, replace it.

 

[sjmjax]

Thanks everyone for your input.

I'll try the Federal primers on the next reloading cycle.

I'll also try some tweaking to the spring as suggested by Hondo.

 

[Tired Gunsmith]

"W Mainsprings

We had quite a bit of experience with the"W" equipped mainspring revolvers in the mid 1950's.
The rebending of the spring is not the way to go..it is too easy to cause damage.
We ended up for reliability in fiting a new standard mainspring, stock strain screw and rebound spring.
Never had to replace the rebound slide itself to correct the misfiring.
There were a few exceptions, as I had and used a 1950 .44 Target Model, so equipped until selling it just a few years ago...never had ignition problems with it Ser. S104xxx

 

[M29since14]

I agree with Tired Gunsmith. Re-bending the spring is not going to be a fix (long-term).

The gun is a target gun. I have always used mine with handloads and my handloads have always had Federal primers. Maybe Federal primers would cure your problem?

.45 ACP cases can vary about 0.020". I used to make it a practice to select cases that measured within a couple thousandths of 0.885" for my 1955. I don't recall how I settled on that particular number. I remember that I did that mainly to improve accuracy, that's all. That might have had something to do with the success I had with the gun, too. I frequently heard comments about the W-mainspring guns being a pain in the neck, but my gun always worked fine - and still does. It is just not the most accurate gun I have ever owned. For reference, my gun is S1653xx.

 

[rburg]

Gawd, am I going to take abuse over this post.... The very first thing anyone should do, ever, when a gun misfires is clean it. Not the normal patch down the brore with maybe a brush stroke or two before. Same on the charge holes. Give the poor gun a complete cleaning as in squeaky clean that would make your old DI proud. Everything.

Since its misbehaving in DA, pull the cylinder, brush under the extractor then spray it with a gun solvent. Pull the sideplate and clean it out really good. Even the hand slot. Pay particular attention to the hammer itself. Anything that could possibly cause drag and friction. Then lubricate with a light oil. Nothing heavy, just to make it slicker inside.

Its been my observation that such a cleaning will often (maybe 80%) will make the gun much more reliable. Could be I play with slobs and too many rimfires. But dirty guns cause as much trouble as any other single cause. Might not even be dirt you would see or notice, and its worse on target guns that see a lot of firing. Could be a little dirt in the chambers that prevent the round from firing, instead using the energy to fully seat the round, or just a bit of drag that slows things down a hair. Remember, 45 ACPs headspace on the case neck, so just a tiny bit of crud there can make it stick out a little. Then it fully seats but doesn't fire. Next time around the cylinder it goes off. Its then diagnosed as a gun problem instead of user neglect.

As for what to try to see how reliable the gun is, go buy some Federal commercial rounds, or even some rimmed ammo. That will eliminate some wobble, or differences in cases or moons. Auto Rim should still be available, someplace...

So many possibilities and we always settle on the gun itself.

Flame suit on, fire away.

 

[Cyrano]

I like it, Dick.

 

[H. M. Pope]

Dick,
There is no neck on a 45 ACP.
Regards
H. M. Pope

 

[rburg]

Dick,
There is no neck on a 45 ACP.
Regards
H. M. Pope

OK, call it a case mouth if you must. Its the same thing. It doesn't headspace on the rim or moon, it headspaces on the front of the case. It looks and feels like its seated, but just a bit of powder residue, or God forbid, some bullet lube if cast bullets were being fired.