Want to buy a 6" barrel

scottydude003

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2011
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
I currently own a smith 686 revolver that i would like to better equip for hunting White-tailed deer. It wears the 4" right now but im looking for something a little more accurate. I found this one, Smith & Wesson Barrel S&W 686 6" Red Ramp - MidwayUSA but i have never bought a barrel for a gun that didnt come stock. Whats the Pros and Cons of doing this? Is there a better place where i can find a better quality barrel? Thanks.
 
Register to hide this ad
I guess that is the cheaper way to go, but why not buy another gun? I love our 686, has a 6" barrel. I went and bought a second one with a 4" barrel for indoor shooting events. Can never have too many revolvers.:D
 
A quick call to factory customer service will get you a quote for a new 6" barrel and installation, which they still have in stock for the 686. If your question is regarding a factory vs. aftermarket barrel, the latter are available but I suspect the former will be fine for your purposes. It will not necessarily be "more accurate" than the 4" barrel, but the sight radius will be longer and should be easier to shoot for that reason. Hope this is helpful.
 
Is your 4 inch tapped for optics? Or can it be made to accept one? Why not use the revolver you are accustmed to and just put a red dot on it for hunting? Cheaper, and a lot more fun. Just a thought. Flapjack.
 
IMO many have a misconception about the accuracy benefit of a long barrel.

With a longer one piece barrel the amount the barrel deflects when a bullet is transitting the barrel INCREASES, meaning the muzzle deflects more from it's neutral point. As a result longer one piece barrels are MORE sensitive to load selection. If the bullet is timed in such a way that it leaves the muzzle while the barrel is passing through it's nuetral point, accuracy is quite good. However if the timing isn't right for the harmonics of the barrel, accuracy can be rather poor. What this means is the load development and testing become critical as barrel length increases.

The most significant benefit of a longer barrel is the longer sight radius they provide and the increase in potential velocity that they can offer. However, you can't take that velocity increase as being cast in stone, you may be caught between acceptable accuracy at a lower velocity or poor accuracy at maximum velocity due to poor harmonics with that faster load. As for the benefit of the longer sight radius, with the optics available today that benefit has basically become outdated.

Finally, as I have learned from experience, longer barrels are more sensitive to recoil management skills. It's because the bullet spends more TIME in the barrel where how consistently you manage the recoil determines how accurately you can actually shoot.

Now, I'm not saying that a 6 inch 686 can't be used to take a white tail deer, too many people have had great success with this combination. What I am saying is that the longer barrel will NOT provide a "magic answer", you'll still have to put in the time and effort to gain the skills to make it effective.

I also think that you may be underestimating the actual full cost of this conversion. It's not a simple matter of unscrewing the old barrel and screwing the new one on to the frame. It will have to be "clocked and fitted" to the frame and cylinder, which requires a precise detail oriented smith with the tools and training to do it properly. I'm guessing the total cost of doing this will run between 300 and 400 dollars but that's just a guess. I would advise that if you want a 6 inch 686 to go out and purchase a 6 inch 686 and keep what you have now as it is. There are plenty of the long barrel 686's on the used market and it's not at all hard to find one that's barely been shot.

Fact is that I found my 6 1/2 inch 610 a real challenge to my shooting ability and it took more practice than I expected it to in order to get moderately good with it. I suspect that you'll find a lot of 6 and 8 3/8 inch 686's on used shelves that were sold because the owner just didn't want to put in the effort those long barrels require.
 
I currently own a smith 686 revolver that i would like to better equip for hunting White-tailed deer. It wears the 4" right now but im looking for something a little more accurate. I found this one, Smith & Wesson Barrel S&W 686 6" Red Ramp - MidwayUSA but i have never bought a barrel for a gun that didnt come stock. Whats the Pros and Cons of doing this? Is there a better place where i can find a better quality barrel? Thanks.

Probably not what you want to hear but I think .357 is very marginal for deer. I think you would be better served getting a .44 mag for hunting. Just my opinion.
 
thanks for all the helpful info guys. Ill answer a few of the questions you had. Optics wise it is not drilled and tapped for optics. Why dont i just buy another gun? Times are hard. Knowing that a six inch might take more skill to shoot ( Awesome post scooter123 ) I like the idea of that. I have been a traditional and compound bow hunter for five years because i always thought guns were too easy and i felt like you owed it to the game you hunted to make it as hard for you to harvest them as possible. But handguns take alot of skill to shoot, i learned about a year ago. Ill probably keep the 4" and see how it works for me this season and use that data to determine if i buy a new 686 with a 6". thanks again guys
 
I have a 6-inch ND and would rather have a 4-inch. That's what makes the world go 'round...different strokes for different folks. Could be a trade in the works here, if it could be done without too much hassle.
 
thanks for all the helpful info guys. Ill answer a few of the questions you had. Optics wise it is not drilled and tapped for optics. Why dont i just buy another gun? Times are hard. Knowing that a six inch might take more skill to shoot ( Awesome post scooter123 ) I like the idea of that. I have been a traditional and compound bow hunter for five years because i always thought guns were too easy and i felt like you owed it to the game you hunted to make it as hard for you to harvest them as possible. But handguns take alot of skill to shoot, i learned about a year ago. Ill probably keep the 4" and see how it works for me this season and use that data to determine if i buy a new 686 with a 6". thanks again guys

As a bow hunter that means that you've developed the skills and understand the need for not taking a shot beyond your "reach". IMO that means that you can do well with your 4 inch 686, you just have to get in close enough for a well placed shot.

Fact is that the 357 Magnum is marginal for a good clean kill on a white tail, which means that you have to place your shots quite well. In that light here is one suggestion, spend a bit of range time with a 180 or 200 grain hunting load of the 357 Magnum determining the distance at which you can hold your groups to 4 inches or less. Then consider that as the maximum distance for taking a deer.

BTW, you'll find these loads available from Double Tap and the recoil will be a bit "stiff", so order at least 2 boxes so you can work yourself up to shooting them well and get your sighting tuned properly. You may also find they shoot high enough that your sights can't be properly zeroed for this heavy bullet, so you'll have to learn how to shoot with the front sight low in the notch or by aiming low. That means putting in range time, however don't try and do it all in one session. Break it up to 20-30 rounds per session because these loads can be a real flinch builder if you overdo it.

BTW, after that first shot with one of these hunting loads you'll understand that "stiff" is a bit tongue and cheek and need suggestions for a better set of grips. If you have larger hands I'd suggest the Pachmayr Decelerator for a square butt grip frame or the 500 Magnum Monogrip for a round butt grip frame. Another alternative is a good pair of shooting gloves. The plain and simple truth is I find these hunting loads painful with an exposed backstrap and won't shoot them without some type of padding. I'll also warn you that if you are shooting at an indoor range to double up on the hearing protection because they are loud enough that I've had people ask me if I was shooting a 500 Magnum. BTW, they aren't that loud but they are close.
 
distance should not be a problem. Both the deer i harvested this year i shot at 11 yards. stalked up to one at 10. Your right, a bit more range time with some more powerful and heavier hunting loads.
 
I have a 6" 686-1. The friend of mine who sold it to me hunted hogs with it using 180gr .357 loads - Win Partition Gold. When he sold it to me, he threw in a box of that ammo. Talk about 'stiff'? - WOW. Edit: let me add that I'm not a 'hardcore' .357 guy.

I put a set of Pachmayr Decelerator grips on it and, even after that, decided the setup probably was not my cup of tea.

So, I called S&W to check into having them put a 4" barrel on it. They said they could do it for about $200 total. They could also switch it back for me for about $100.

Well, after reading these boards, I decided as many others have suggested: if you want a 4", just buy, or trade for, a 4". But I haven't done anything yet on the 686 though I did find a nice 64-5 4". I know your situation is reversed in this case.

What, no pics yet?

If you are in North Texas, you could try mine out. It's not tapped for optics (yet). We might even work a trade - but mine is a pre-lock in really good shape.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0298_B.jpg
    IMG_0298_B.jpg
    63.6 KB · Views: 16
Last edited:
Well im out of central Ohio. A long ways from Texas. Mine was purchased in the mid 80s and was used by my father as a Duty carry firearm. Its Not by any means beat up and i have had a few people guess it was only a few months old! haha But With the convincing posts i have read and the history behind the gun i think ill be keeping it. thanks for the interest tho.
mail
 

Attachments

  • 0731111945.jpg
    0731111945.jpg
    29.3 KB · Views: 7
As a bow hunter that means that you've developed the skills and understand the need for not taking a shot beyond your "reach".

If you're a bowhunter, you probably have the patience and discipline to take deer with a 38 snub. I'd keep the four-inch 686 and spend the rebarrel funds on ammo and range time. The 357 is definitely on the light side for deer, but it will fill the freezer if you shoot carefully and keep the ranges short.


Okie John
 
If you're a bowhunter, you probably have the patience and discipline to take deer with a 38 snub. I'd keep the four-inch 686 and spend the rebarrel funds on ammo and range time. The 357 is definitely on the light side for deer, but it will fill the freezer if you shoot carefully and keep the ranges short.


Okie John

Nothing else compares to being 11 yards away from a mature deer in the winter when you can see their breath. You only have one shot, wait for the moment, draw back, and let your instincts do the rest. I love it!
 
IMHO; the 4", being less 'barrel heavy', would be more desirable to more people for that reason. I think that the relative accuracy, as others have stated, is at least comparable and probably depends more on the individual gun and shooter. In my case, the guns are ALWAYS more accurate than I am.

Anyhoo, if I had it, I'd keep it.
 
Back
Top