Water Heaters
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gunnails
Member
I don't, a modern WH will have a swirling action when it fills to help with stuff settling on the bottom.
Are you noticing any grit or such in your hot water?
if it's an old heater you may wish to check on the condition of the dip tube, there were a lot of bad dip tubes at one point that ended up dissolving inside of the HWH's over a long period of time and that is an issue of its own.
Are you noticing any grit or such in your hot water?
if it's an old heater you may wish to check on the condition of the dip tube, there were a lot of bad dip tubes at one point that ended up dissolving inside of the HWH's over a long period of time and that is an issue of its own.
I'd always heard that,but never did it.Generally got 12-15 years out of a gas fired unit anyway.
m1gunner
US Veteran
Changing the sacrificial anode does more, but draining them occasionally can help, unless you break the plastic drain valve.
DeathGrip
US Veteran
A lot depends on your water source.
da gimp
Member
we have a good neighbor who does his every month... besides getting rid of the sediment... Larry thinks it helps to keep the drainage valve working properly so that it doesn't seize up...I never have done ours & like arjay said, I get about 12-15 years from a good quality natural gas fired unit.
When the tank less units first came out, they said to flush it/back flush it once a month with vinegar if I remember right... so I didn't buy one. Too much hassle & I'd forget to do it, sure as heck.
When the tank less units first came out, they said to flush it/back flush it once a month with vinegar if I remember right... so I didn't buy one. Too much hassle & I'd forget to do it, sure as heck.
I avoid fooling with that cheap drain valve until I'm changing out the old water heater. You're not going to extend the life of a water heater using this method, from what I have seen. I do on occasion pour a bucket of water down the drain by the water heater, however, to keep the P trap full and preventing sewer gas from coming up.
After our first electric water heater went (new house & heater) about 23 years ago after 8-9 years of use, I religiously drained the replacement every three months - lasted another 8-9 years
.Replaced that one with a gas unit and have done nothing to it for about 10 years and it's still going fine. If/when we replace this one, I'm going to strongly consider an instant one with no tank.
.Replaced that one with a gas unit and have done nothing to it for about 10 years and it's still going fine. If/when we replace this one, I'm going to strongly consider an instant one with no tank.
I pop the pressure relief valve every few weeks just to make sure it opens.
Probably just wasting my time...............
Probably just wasting my time...............
m1gunner
US Veteran
The last water-heater that I had fail, failed dur to pressure cycling.
New water codes call for check valves on the water service line. This necessitates either a pressure relief valve or a air/watter bladder expansion tank.
I installed a pressure relief valve, and it quit relieving after a few years. This caused water pressure to skyrocket when lots of cold water entered the tank and was heated. Pressure rose 30 to 40 psi due to thermal expansion, then was bled off the next tine a faucet was used.
The metal water tank failed after many cycles. Glad I was here when it happened.
Expansion tanks fail, too. Not the way valves fail, but end result is the same.
New water codes call for check valves on the water service line. This necessitates either a pressure relief valve or a air/watter bladder expansion tank.
I installed a pressure relief valve, and it quit relieving after a few years. This caused water pressure to skyrocket when lots of cold water entered the tank and was heated. Pressure rose 30 to 40 psi due to thermal expansion, then was bled off the next tine a faucet was used.
The metal water tank failed after many cycles. Glad I was here when it happened.
Expansion tanks fail, too. Not the way valves fail, but end result is the same.
The curve at bottom of dip tube helps stir sediment up when you drain the tank. Otherwise, it does nothing to prevent accumulation of sediment--when water flow stops in the heater, the stuff settles on the bottom.
If you running a gas heater, sediment accumulation will cause a 'popcorn popping' sound effect. The sediment acts like a blanket on the tank bottom, causing local overheating of the metal till it creates a burst of steam, giving the popping sound. That will shorten the lifespan of the tank bottom.
If sediment gets high enough to cover lower element in an electric heater, the lower element will burn out. The heater will still run, but capacity will drop to about half or less.
Changing out the plastic gate-style valve to a brass ball valve is worthwhile if you plan on getting sediment out. A ball valve is a lot more robust than the plastic, and you can 'rod it out' with a
coat hanger when the sediment clogs it (I've seen chunks of stuff that resembled gravel and shell
fragments like you'd see along the surf line at the beach!). Swapping in a ball valve is best done on your *next* heater, btw--depending on condition of tank/nipple, unscrewing the plastic valve may start a leak.
BTW, the defective dip tubes didn't dissolve--the broke into pieces that could cause all kinds of headaches. That was more than twenty years ago, so they're probably out of circulation by now.
Anode rod replacement is the way to go to preserve tank life. You can find em on Amazon for about $15 a pop. I knew a guy that retired from AO Smith, who talked a lot about water heaters. He said you'll see the ballyhooed 'glass lining' when you flush the sediment--glass about as thick as a light bulb. He said the glass linings were "all broke before they left the factory."
Reminds me I'm due for checking mine out!
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As someone said it depends on your water source. I have units
in a town that if you get 7 yrs. out of a HWT, you are lucky. In
this area HWT are in the basements. I put tanks on 8" concrete
blocks, for two reasons. To keep bottom from rusting, and 8" off
floor makes it easier to get to valve. I drain them once a year.
When you see the sand and calcium that comes out, you will be
a believer. If you don't this **** will solidify into a rock. In electric
tanks it will make it impossible to replace the element ( bottom)
On Natural Gas tanks it will cause bottom to burn out of tank.
The demand systems work well, but a $500 Big Box store model
will not do the job on whole house system. When buying electric
models make sure you have a big enough electrical service to
handle it. I have put a few in, have had no complaints except on
the cheap ones not doing the job. I ain't no expert but local HWS
gives me Frequent Flier miles, for buying HWTs.
in a town that if you get 7 yrs. out of a HWT, you are lucky. In
this area HWT are in the basements. I put tanks on 8" concrete
blocks, for two reasons. To keep bottom from rusting, and 8" off
floor makes it easier to get to valve. I drain them once a year.
When you see the sand and calcium that comes out, you will be
a believer. If you don't this **** will solidify into a rock. In electric
tanks it will make it impossible to replace the element ( bottom)
On Natural Gas tanks it will cause bottom to burn out of tank.
The demand systems work well, but a $500 Big Box store model
will not do the job on whole house system. When buying electric
models make sure you have a big enough electrical service to
handle it. I have put a few in, have had no complaints except on
the cheap ones not doing the job. I ain't no expert but local HWS
gives me Frequent Flier miles, for buying HWTs.
As a brand-new home owner (of a not-brand-new home)over thirty years ago, I had this fella, Larry Weingarten, come out and replace my leaking water heater. He explained most of the stuff I mentioned in my previous post*, and it can really extend the life of your heater:
Choosing, servicing hot water heaters for longevity
*Larry was not the AO Smith guy, he was someone else. He did corroborate what Larry said, however.
Choosing, servicing hot water heaters for longevity
*Larry was not the AO Smith guy, he was someone else. He did corroborate what Larry said, however.
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After living with tankless/on demand, I would never willingly switch back.
amazingflapjack
US Veteran
Yep-and I replace the elements occasionally. Just make sure-water and power off, and valve on to open to drain.
We have real hard water here, so once a year it's drain 2 gallons of water,
put in 2 gallons of vinegar. Sit over night and then drain.
Does wonders to make my 75 gallon gas HW heater last 5 years so far.
put in 2 gallons of vinegar. Sit over night and then drain.
Does wonders to make my 75 gallon gas HW heater last 5 years so far.
My parents had to replace theirs 3 years ago, it was installed in the 80s. In an apartment I used to live, it let go and dumped water all over the floor. Fortunately I was home to shut off the valve. It was original, over 20 years old.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
My brother and I owned a 140 unit apartment complex. Before we owned Dad built and owned it ( I was on the crew that oversaw the construction). We also serviced another 30 twin singles and Mom's 76 unit complex (My brother was on the crew that over saw it being built). When we sold out 10 years ago, I was maintenance supervisor for a company that owned 1600 units. I HAVE DELT WITH HOT WATER HEATERS SINCE 1974.
The best brand of tanks has been A.O. Smith, the worst national brand was/is Lacinvar. Gas or electric didn't matter. I have overseen 4 to 5 times as many electrics as gas.
On electrics, State was a major player in the late 80's and 90's. They used a heavier gauge metal in their tank, I can't prove if the "glass" lining was thicker or not, but they would last on average 50% longer that most quality brands. Their secret to no service was an element called a "Sand Hog". Most 5500 watt elements are 17-19 ohms, the Sand Hog was about 23. The 5500 watt elements are usually straight and doubled back on themselves and about 8" long, a Sand Hog was 8-10" long but waved back and forth, giving it 10-15% more surface area. One of my suppliers had a case of these elements, of which I got 12. When these ran out I could never get any more. These elements always outlasted any brand of tank I put them in. The one I put in my home lasted 23 years. I NEVER re-use ANY part from a used hot water tank. Even electrical parts that were only a few months old! They only caused service problems.!!!
On Pressure safety valves, new tank, new valve. Service customers would want us to re-use the older one, we would send a copy of a newspaper article were a Oklahoma school re-used a pressure valve in an 80 gallon tank. The next day it exploded killing 24 (the entire kitchen staff and 16 students). They only saved $8 or so. (usually the cheep *** Comptrollers, try to save a penny when issuing the purchase order! We refused to cut that corner!
The condo I live in now has an A.O.Smith gas WH in it now, it is 12 years old, I'll just have to see who goes first!
Ivan
The best brand of tanks has been A.O. Smith, the worst national brand was/is Lacinvar. Gas or electric didn't matter. I have overseen 4 to 5 times as many electrics as gas.
On electrics, State was a major player in the late 80's and 90's. They used a heavier gauge metal in their tank, I can't prove if the "glass" lining was thicker or not, but they would last on average 50% longer that most quality brands. Their secret to no service was an element called a "Sand Hog". Most 5500 watt elements are 17-19 ohms, the Sand Hog was about 23. The 5500 watt elements are usually straight and doubled back on themselves and about 8" long, a Sand Hog was 8-10" long but waved back and forth, giving it 10-15% more surface area. One of my suppliers had a case of these elements, of which I got 12. When these ran out I could never get any more. These elements always outlasted any brand of tank I put them in. The one I put in my home lasted 23 years. I NEVER re-use ANY part from a used hot water tank. Even electrical parts that were only a few months old! They only caused service problems.!!!
On Pressure safety valves, new tank, new valve. Service customers would want us to re-use the older one, we would send a copy of a newspaper article were a Oklahoma school re-used a pressure valve in an 80 gallon tank. The next day it exploded killing 24 (the entire kitchen staff and 16 students). They only saved $8 or so. (usually the cheep *** Comptrollers, try to save a penny when issuing the purchase order! We refused to cut that corner!
The condo I live in now has an A.O.Smith gas WH in it now, it is 12 years old, I'll just have to see who goes first!
Ivan
model70hunter
Member
HELPFUL HINT;
The drain in the break room at my last job had an awful sewer smell, I finally had a plummer check it, he said add water at least once a week, OR put in about a cup of cheap vegetable oil every month, it does not evaporate as quickly. Kept a big jug of save a buck 99 cent brand handy and did all the drains.
