Waxing revolvers

OLDSTER

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
10,139
Reaction score
14,958
Location
North Dakota
I've always maintained a decent collection of S&W and Colt revolvers. But I've never "waxed" the safe queens. Intriques me and looks nice. What are some tips you would recommend for this process. Thank you in advance for your comments/suggestions:):)
 
Register to hide this ad
They say Renaissance Wax is the best. I've been using it on wood grips and I like that result. Thinking of doing the metal too.
Try a forum search for Renaissance Wax or Ren Wax.
 
After you clean the gun,wipe all the oil and cleaner off of the surface and wax it with renwax or a paste wax.For renwax,just put on a thin coat with your fingers and buff with a rag.The gun needs to be really free of solvents and oil or the wax will just dissolve.
 
  • Like
Reactions: M1A
As stated above wipe all of the oil off and use your finger to apply Renaissance wax. Use a very soft cloth to buff. I use it inside the barrel and cylinder on safe queens. Use it on the grips too! When applying with your finger rub until it starts to get tacky, then buff.
 
Ren Wax/Pre-Lim on M15'2's

Ren Wax makes a product called "PRE-LIM" that will remove any petroleum products before you apply the final coats of Ren Wax. It is a little recommended by the mfg. and after applying it your revolver will look waxed but go forward with a coat or 2 of Ren Wax. One draw back to the Pre-Lim is that the tan color substance will get into the barrel roll and any other stamped area so get to it with a firm toothbrush before it sets up and it won't be an issue. I like to use a barrel patch to apply both, very lightly is all that's required. I have also had good success with Frog Lube degreaser before applying Ren Wax, I prefer it as it is non toxic and I can use it indoors. I really prefer waxing due to the peace of mind it gives you knowing your firearm is well sealed against moisture. It also cuts cleaning in half and gives a fine appearance without going over the top with a over polished look. I'll take wax over polish any day, just my opinion. I also find it is worth the time to strip the revolver of the cylinder, grips and latch initially. Good Luck
Due to Ren Wax being imported it is a little tough to find in retail stores.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Lim-Cleaner-65ml-Can/dp/B003ZH3VGK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453578620&sr=8-4&keywords=pre+lim+surface+cleaner"]Amazon.com: Pre Lim Cleaner 65ml Can: Health & Personal Care@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Oj2%2BoqkNL.@@AMEPARAM@@41Oj2%2BoqkNL[/ame]
 

Attachments

  • S&W M15-2 .38 spec. 2 inch 005.jpg
    S&W M15-2 .38 spec. 2 inch 005.jpg
    40.3 KB · Views: 122
  • S&W M15-2 .38 spec. 2 inch 030.jpg
    S&W M15-2 .38 spec. 2 inch 030.jpg
    60.9 KB · Views: 118
  • S&W M15-2 .38 spec. 2 inch 034.jpg
    S&W M15-2 .38 spec. 2 inch 034.jpg
    79.5 KB · Views: 116
  • M15-2 4 inch .38 spl sn#K627560  yr 1959 003.jpg
    M15-2 4 inch .38 spl sn#K627560 yr 1959 003.jpg
    79.6 KB · Views: 120
  • M15-2 4 inch .38 spl sn#K627560  yr 1959 009.jpg
    M15-2 4 inch .38 spl sn#K627560 yr 1959 009.jpg
    76.4 KB · Views: 123
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: M1A
Mr. Givens. Wouldn't denatured alcohol do a cleaning job?
BTW a 200ml/7oz jar of ren wax will last a long time.
 
Waxing "Safe Queens" would be fine - but I don't have any.

I shoot ALL my guns and for me to wax them, clean after shooting, remove oils and solvents and re-wax is just more trouble than it's worth, at least to me.

After cleaning a firearm I just give them a wipe down with a new lightly oiled patch and put them back in the original box. Each gun gets wrapped in the VOC anti-rust paper (bought a bunch from S&W) and not only does the VOC paper help prevent any rusting it also keeps any oil on the gun from ruining the box, foam, styrene, etc .

I suppose if I was to shadow box frame a gun to hang on the wall for display, waxing would be the way to go but just don;t see it as practical for guns that actually get shot.
 
Thanks all for the response and tips. I'll be busy next week "waxing" 4 queens. :)
 
I use the Renaissance wax on all my guns for years. Its the best I found. I re-apply after cleaning the guns. You only need a small amount. I use a micro fiber cloth to polish it to a high luster.
 
As above use Renaissance Museum wax or Johnson's Paste Wax.
You can buy Ren wax from Brownell's and other sources online.
Buy Johnson's in big yellow cans at most hardware stores, and some Walmart's.

DON'T use car wax.
It often contains abrasives to polish paint that can harm gun finishes, and dries white.
It's great for cars, not so much for guns.
 
I to use johnsons paste wax on all my guns. Has worked well for years and a can lasts forever.
 
I have used Turtle wax on my blued guns for years. When I was a leo I carried both high blue Colts and S & W revolvers. Waxing them often helped slow down holster wear on the finish. Still wax my blue guns.
 
Terry,

Waxing a gun with Turtle Wax is a bit if a risk since Turtle wax (to the best of my knowledge) still contains abrasives. If you are going to wax, then I'd use either Ren-wax or Johnson's Paste wax - no abrasives.
 
I always wipe my handguns down with a micro fiber cloth wet with a liberal amount of isopropyl alcohol…….removes any trace of oil, then I apply 2 or 3 coats of renwax…… works for me.

Semper Fi!
 
They say Renaissance Wax is the best. I've been using it on wood grips and I like that result. Thinking of doing the metal too.
Try a forum search for Renaissance Wax or Ren Wax.

One has to concur with the above-- when museums use this stuff on their priceless items such as swords etc., that has always pretty much told the tale for me.
Several appilcations rather than one big one seems to work best for me with the applicator being make-up round pads for the $ store. These are good for Flitz as well :)

medium800.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: M1A
Back
Top